Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

[zapwizard]

RyceKaeks, I wouldn't consider the Bluetooth edition cannon in any way. Whomever designed it for ThinkGeek didn't put much time into it.
The Holotapes are inserted in backwards, and for some reason they are brown. The knob on the left side acts as a button. It uses the same non-game accurate 3D model as the Pip-Boy edition, and has unnecessary protrusions and recesses added to make the docking station work. And the fact that most of them broke, means it doesn't have that RobCo lasts forever guarantee.

CAKComedyProps, I agree that it isn't just tan. It does have some olive drab in it. I haven't yet started researching paints. But I do have a Amazon wishlist with about $500 of air brushing gear waiting for hobby funds to build up.

 

[Voltaire Surge]

zapwizard will you be painting it first or getting the electronics rigged up first? Just to have it run a sort of preliminary program for the pipboy so se can get people creaming their jeans XD

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

Regarding the paint... As posted previously, with my plans to cork my Pip-Boy, I tend to over-think and over-engineer things. Yes, this often makes things more complicated than they strictly need to be, but it makes me happy, so... *shrug*

I've learned a bit about olive-drab paint over the years, in my pursuits to replicate scale color and sun-fading. First, I was gobsmacked to learn that it's not a mix of black, red, and white (black and red make brown, and then white lightens it toward tan-ish). It's a mix of yellow and black. The fading is a result of the black bleaching out under sun exposure. So the effect is re-created by adding a neutral yellow (like Insignia Yellow or Zinc Chromate Primer) to the o.d.

So get some period-accurate o.d. paint colors and some yellows and don't be scared to experiment. I know a nonzero number of folks following this thread likely already know this, but I'm putting it out there for anyone who doesn't.

 

[CAKComedyProps]

Here’s the pictures of the paint. The Pip-Boy shifted on the print bed (my fault) so I didn’t bother sanding it, but the paint mix was 1:1 model master dark tan and olive drab. Next time I was thinking I’d add a 2:1 tan to olive to be a little more tan, but I’m pretty happy with how it looked so far.

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

Yeah, some people swear by buff, khaki, and tan as a lightening color, too, rather than yellow, so that's a good approach.

 

[GhostMinion]

Here’s the pictures of the paint. The Pip-Boy shifted on the print bed (my fault) so I didn’t bother sanding it, but the paint mix was 1:1 model master dark tan and olive drab. Next time I was thinking I’d add a 2:1 tan to olive to be a little more tan, but I’m pretty happy with how it looked so far.

May I be so bold as to suggest that the color you are looking for is Model Masters Field Drab (#4708). This will give you the color I believe you're trying to achieve. You can see this color applied on a Military Power Armor helmet I painted on my PA helmet thread.

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

That one or the Faded Olive Drab are both good starting points.

 

[zapwizard]

While I don't have much experience (yet) with airbrush paints, I do have lots of experience with color matching things due to my professional design work, and architectural work. Rule #1 is that no matter how calibrated your monitor is, the color online is only a rough guide. I will probably order and test a host of similar colors before deciding.

Using the attached images, rendered in NIFscope, so without in-game color bias, I think that the green tint is very slight. So #2051 might be a bit closer, perhaps even one shade of green less. I have been doing some experiments with painting nylon on the Dosimeter project. I can achieve a very high gloss finish that emulates a powder-coat process by using just primer, and lots of coats of paint, wet-sanding between coats, it takes forever, but the end result takes it from a "3d print" to something that looks 100% real. You can see this in the video posted above.

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

You really shouldn't post hardcore porn, sir...

 

[CAKComedyProps]

Maybe if I did a base coat of straight tan, and lightly add olive-tan mixture it would be more accurate. The faded olive and field tan look pretty good as well.

 

[GhostMinion]

Maybe if I did a base coat of straight tan, and lightly add olive-tan mixture it would be more accurate. The faded olive and field tan look pretty good as well.

Also, unless you're going for a clean, fresh painted look, remember that a nice light blackwashing will darken your color slightly.

 

[HolvesGM]

Is it possible to get all the materials of the final version of Pip-Boy?

 

[Voltaire Surge]

Is it possible to get all the materials of the final version of Pip-Boy?

I believe ge plans to have the printable parts on sites that print in sls nylon and then have a list of all the other components elsewhere.

 

[zapwizard]

HolvesGM First off, the version is not yet final. I am still working on the electronics, and so I want to keep my design options open.

I am not planning on selling any kits at this time. My goal is to get it completed for myself before deciding on what to do.

Back in June I released the Unfinished CAD files. However, what I have currently is different than that version. I don't like releasing unfinished work, so the unfinished was more for those curious about the design to explore.

 

[orion42m]

I am not try to seem pushy but do you think it will be in a releasable state by the end of 2019 or 2020?

 

[zapwizard]

orion42m: Sigh, I hope by the end of 2019.

I have been spending this whole month on organizing my office electronics and workshop. Currently I have been working on projects from outside of the cardboard boxes the parts came in, and it it makes it frustrating to find parts when you need them. All with the goal of making it easier to work on projects, as well as document them via video and photos.

The Dosimeter PCB is sitting, 90% completed, I just have to test some of the firmware loading functions outside of a dev board. There is no sense in making a PCB board that I can't actually load with firmware.

 

[Inquisitor Peregrinus]

If you, or the guy who printed the test pieces for you, have a multi-filament FDM printer, you could always use regular and conductive PLA to print the circuit boards themselves... Just thought of that. Didn't know if you already did.

 

[zapwizard]

3D Printed circuit boards can handle VERY simple circuits, such as lighting. The cannot be used to make regular circuit boards that require hot solder.

I will require a four layer high-speed PCB for the motherboard, due to the video signals involved, and one or two layer PCBs for the rest of the build. PCBs actually aren't that expensive either, as long as your willing to wait for them to be made.

 

[Voltaire Surge]

Are you just waiting for the boards to come in then or are is life currently the priority?

 

[Qumair84]

When you finish this pipboy, as it is the most gadgety and complicated one in the series it seems, do you have plans on dumbing it down and implementing the similar electronics into the 2000, 2000 mk VI, or the 3000?