Foam Iron Man Mk VI WIP

Hey guys, I've been a member here for a little bit, but more of a lurker than a poster. I'm also a member over at the 405th.

Basically (as the title implies), I decided to do a foam Iron Man. I am not new to pepping and have previously pepped and resined other Iron Man pieces in previous failures. The resining and fiberglassing was actually coming along fine, I had the chest and complete left arm done and a three helmets resined up...I just felt wearing a hard plastic armor around was too difficult and limiting so I put them away.

Recently, I had seen some of Stealth's work ( :thumbsup ) and have been re-motivated to try it again but in foam instead. I have downloaded and used the files he has posted as a basic reference, but I have modified most of the files in some way, changing some of the cuts/pieces in Pepakura Designer in order to better follow the body lines seen in the movie.

AS A NOTE, I AM 5'8" 188 LBS. I USED A SCALE FACTOR OF 24.7 FOR ALL MY PIECES UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

I'm a month into the project now (11/30/11) and have a great portion completed. I wanted to create this thread to help out those that are going to give it a try and learn from my mistakes and my successes. I'll also be posting up what this project is costing in order for people to know what this thing realistically costs. In this first post I will list (and updated) all the items I have used in my project. If I have requests to post my versions of the Pepakura files, I will.

-----------------
Items Used / Total Cost as of 11/30/11
-----------------
SUPPLIES
------------
6mm foam.............. $60
Buckles/Strapping.... $40
Hot Glue................ $20
Xacto Blades.......... $12
Velcro.................... $15

TOOLS
------------
Scissors................. $10
Glue Gun................ $3
Xacto Knife............ $7
Cutting board......... $20
Ducktape dummy.... $20
Dremel.................. $90

TOTAL................... $297

----------------

This is still going to go up considerably. A Dremel isn't 100% necessary, but it is definately worth it if you want clean angles. I also bought the Xacto blade intended to cut 45* angles, but found it too difficult to use when cutting rounded areas. Also, you may find better deals than me, I've been buying the majority of my stuff at Michael's. For the Velcro, I DO NOT RECOMMEND the industrial strength stuff. It does not lay very flat. I do recommend Ultra-Mate "Low Profile Fastener" Velcro. MUCH BETTER. Anyways, my next post will be where the thread will take off from.

Another note, I will be posting with higher quality pics (not crappy phone pics) so you will probably see more imperfections than with blurry phone pics.
 
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The Good Stuff

Ok... here we go. I have comleted the majority of the upper torso of the project.

THE NECK

neck1.jpg


neck2.jpg


The neck opens and closes with one buckle on the base. I will probably add a thin piece of foam in the gap seperated the front and back of the neck.

neckbuckle.jpg


-----------

THE CHEST BRACE

chestplate1.jpg


chestplate2.jpg


I split the chest plate from the front center and used only one buckle

chestplatebuckle.jpg


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THE BICEP

bicep1.jpg


bicep2.jpg


------------

THE FOREARM

forearm1.jpg


forearm2.jpg


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THE ABS / UPPER COD PIECE

I merged the upper cod piece with the abs for a cleaner look. The crotch and butt plate will be a separate detachable piece.

abs1.jpg


abs2.jpg


I had to give myself a couple extra inches around the waist at the back where it attaches. I comfortably wear size 35-36 jeans. If I had to guess, the standard size waist (24.7 scale) is about a size 32 jean, maybe slightly smaller. I did not want the ab piece to be scaled bigger since I did not want a longer torso. I think it'll look better once I add the spine (no, not fat spine pieces either!!). I used Velcro on the attaching section.

absvelcro.jpg
 
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More good stuff

THE SHOULDER

shoulder.jpg


I attached the shoulder to the chest plate/back using two buckles with adjustable straps. I chose two buckles to help keep the shoulder in the correct position.

shoulderbuckles.jpg


chestconnecttoshoulder.jpg


--------------

THE BACK

The red pieces you see are thinner (2mm) foam. The two bottom pieces had some funky gaps to fill and I needed something more plyable than the normal 6mm foam.

back.jpg


I attached the back to the chest piece using velcro.

chestvelcro.jpg


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THE CHEST PLATE / COMPLETE AS OF NOW 11/30/11

complete.jpg


I used the foam Stealth had recommended (I had to special order it from Sears) on the chest plate (it was actually one of the first pieces I had done). I personally did not like it much. I just couldn't get the mat to uncurl right. I tried curling it the opposite way, ironing it, heat gun, placing large flat objects, and cutting it into smaller (manageable) squares. Nothing worked. It would be OK, but as soon as a piece was cut, it would curl slightly. The chest piece still came out fine since some of the other pieces attached to it help give it the proper shape. This is the only part I used the mat foam on. Otherwise, I have been using the 1/4" / 6mm foam (9x12) sold at michaels (.99 cents ea). The foam sold at Michaels (vertually identical to the "foamies" brand) is probably 1mm thinner than that mat, but it is a little tougher to bend. Also, the mat appears to be more porous, but I haven't confirmed that.


Here is the upper torso with a primed pepped paper helmet I have had laying around for over a year.

complete2.jpg
 
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I'm not sure I want to attach the forearms/elbow directly onto the bicep. I think this would really limit the amount of movement I could have if I do. Anybody have any suggestions as to how I could help keep the elbows over the bicep tabs more often than not, but not have them directly connected?
 
That is looking excellent. Good call on the Paper helmet too :)

I wouldn't worry too much about attaching the biceps to the forearms.
Not sure what you're planning to do in this suit, but it won't be so bad to have them attached.
I didn't really have any problems and it was nice to not have the forearms sliding down on me.

If you can find a better solution, it's all good. Whatever works for you in the end is what matters.
 
That is looking excellent. Good call on the Paper helmet too :)

I wouldn't worry too much about attaching the biceps to the forearms.
Not sure what you're planning to do in this suit, but it won't be so bad to have them attached.
I didn't really have any problems and it was nice to not have the forearms sliding down on me.

If you can find a better solution, it's all good. Whatever works for you in the end is what matters.
Thanks Stealth, I probably (99%) would not have given the foam a try if it wasnt for your vids! What did you do to get the foam mat to lay down flat?

If I cant find a way to keep the forarms from falling down, then I will have to attach them to the bicep. Did you feel attaching them to the bicep hurt mobility at all? I'm not gonna break dance in this thing, just maybe a little dancing come next halloween lol
 
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Looks great! You can try to stuff the inside of the forearms w/ foam blocks. That should keep the forearms from sliding down
 
You could probably use some elastic bands to connect the bicep to the forearm. That should allow a great deal of mobility.
 
Great work! Love the look of that foam. May I ask where you got it from?

He said the chest is the anti fatigue mat that STEALTH, myself and dabbidabird use(Best Step) and the rest is 6mm foam from Michaels.

and you really need to get back on your MK6...


And TWIN, this is looking awesome!
 
I have decided to start a War Machine. I regret doing the Mark 6 in 4mm. :(

Jowe... does the Best Step Floor Mats come rolled or in squares?
 
Wow this is some really clean work you got here. Great job! :thumbsup
Jowe... does the Best Step Floor Mats come rolled or in squares?
It comes is a roll that is 1/4 in thick and 46in x 93in. Price is from 15 to 25 dollars per roll. You can get it from a lot of places like Walmart, Pep Boys, Sears, and others.

I was really looking forward to you completing your Mark VI :(
 
Wow this is some really clean work you got here. Great job! :thumbsup

It comes is a roll that is 1/4 in thick and 46in x 93in. Price is from 15 to 25 dollars per roll. You can get it from a lot of places like Walmart, Pep Boys, Sears, and others.

I was really looking forward to you completing your Mark VI :(
What was wrong with the 4mm foam? your suit was just about done, what happened?
 
You could probably use some elastic bands to connect the bicep to the forearm. That should allow a great deal of mobility.
thanks! I had also thought of using strong magnets. This way, if I really bend, the magnet will have some give... I tried out the magnet idea and it didnt work. The magnets were too strong and detached from it's glued spot.

I'll see where I can run some of the elastic material... im thinking under the bicep tab and onto the elbow, just dont know where exactly.
 
That looks really sharp!

I'll tell you, the quality of foam suits and parts being posted here is just phenomenal. I tried a Mk VI chestplate this week, and once I got some contact cement to attach the pieces with (Modge Podge doesn't actually work too well for holding sections together...), it's like it just flew together. My stepdaughter might actually get her Iron Man armor finished for her now - I'd said I'd do one for her well over a year ago now, but the pep helmet was just kicking my butt.

I look forward to seeing further developments, Evil Twin! It looks great!
 
I have to admit it , that looks awesome . I suppose you don't need to use some much velcro . But what the heck , that looks awesome :lol
 
UPDATE:

ATTACHING ABS TO UPPER TORSO

I added a buckle to the front of the abs and attached it to the chest piece with a buckle. I did this so that the ab piece would not accidently come out in front of the chest.

absbuckle.jpg


chestbuckle.jpg


I also put a piece of velcro on the back of the abs to keep the location consistent so when I make the spine pieces.

abstobackvelcro.jpg
 
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