Fight Club Tyler Durden T-shirts?
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AJRand
Sr Member
Regarding the picture of the Mayhem at Jonathan's. I took that picture. IMO there was something wrong or off with that jacket. It had black marks from a marker on it (Which you can see in the screenshot on the sleeve) -- They do go all the way down on the screen used. I looked at it from behind just for that earlier.
AJRand
Sr Member
Thats what I am trying to find out, if it is from distressing or not. Here is an image comparing my more red JAL to the default leather JAL uses. I also compared them to the screen used jacket and it was definitely a little thinner then the thinner of my two jackets. I am not sure if that is from them distressing. Here is the examples to show what I mean:
See how the display has the arm up? This was how I could hold the arms straight out and not touch the display but able to compare the thickness. They watched me like a hawk (They probably didn't care for that) but technically I wasn't doing anything wrong and I never touched the display.
AJRand
Sr Member
Ok I am talking to JAL right now regarding the jacket: Here is what he says,
The Screen used jacket was hand painted many times by me to acheive the color.
I personally did it about about five separate times, while they were filming here, I left them with a half gallon of paint.
So I have no source for the original leather and it would not matter much as the color was changed from the original color
to start with.The texture had changed because of the exterior paint.
That is why I had the leather tanned in the calf skin.
I haven't seen the original jacket since 1998.
#1.) There are many red leathers from many vendors.
I would need a reference to start, so if you have taken a picture with your jacket next to my other jacket I would know better what you were looking for.
#2) no distressing does not make the leather thinner, it may make it less stiff or in the case of paint more stiff.
- - - Updated - - -
******************This is me writing me, So the interesting thing is the distressing will make the jacket just less stiff but with the paint more stiff. -- Makes you think that the reason it held all those creases was because it was painted after the distressing.
The Screen used jacket was hand painted many times by me to acheive the color.
I personally did it about about five separate times, while they were filming here, I left them with a half gallon of paint.
So I have no source for the original leather and it would not matter much as the color was changed from the original color
to start with.The texture had changed because of the exterior paint.
That is why I had the leather tanned in the calf skin.
I haven't seen the original jacket since 1998.
#1.) There are many red leathers from many vendors.
I would need a reference to start, so if you have taken a picture with your jacket next to my other jacket I would know better what you were looking for.
#2) no distressing does not make the leather thinner, it may make it less stiff or in the case of paint more stiff.
- - - Updated - - -
******************This is me writing me, So the interesting thing is the distressing will make the jacket just less stiff but with the paint more stiff. -- Makes you think that the reason it held all those creases was because it was painted after the distressing.
Danman
Well-Known Member
This should be easy. I'm sure if he looked at the jacket now and as many pictures as there is of the screen used jacket, he could identify the leather. I thought it was a glazed cow hide. That's what it's always looked like to me. I just don't understand, was the jacket brown and he painted it red?? Or did he just paint it a different red?? A good question would be if there is any way possible to get the true screen accurate look without painting and distressing. The real question I would love to ask is if the xmart/tom jacket is a logan. But how would he remember if he doesn't even remember what leather he used on the screen jacket.
smirkingrevenge
Sr Member
Dan, I sent JAL the pictures Tom sent us and he confirmed that he did make that jacket. But since it wasn't screen used it probably wasn't painted. The jacket on display will be. But why would Jonathan remember what colour it was? I can't remember fine details from 1998, as I'm sure you can't either. The leather was probably specifically dyed that colour because that's the colour Kaplan wanted the costume, but at some later stage it was painted darker or lighter or a different shade for the camera. The standard colour the JAL comes in is pretty close for an every day jacket.
smirkingrevenge
Sr Member
thought I would post this for fun. I bought this jacket in 2002 off the old Tylers Jackets website. its so wasted now, its been worn so much, but looks great and the thickness is perfect in my mind.
its been really bleached by the sun and just weathered and distressed. It was such an awesome colour when it was new.
its been really bleached by the sun and just weathered and distressed. It was such an awesome colour when it was new.
adambrisbane
Active Member
Hey AJ i received the boots, fits perfectly wich surprised me as im a size 10. Im gonna get the felt sole removed and will get normal sole applied.
Soul: whats your professional opinion about that?
Also could you tell me the brand of the red pants you have?
Soul: whats your professional opinion about that?
Also could you tell me the brand of the red pants you have?
Shpongled
Active Member
So I asked Jonathan about the Mayhem jacket. I asked about the thickness of the padding, the hang and verticality of the arms, and the shoulder pads. Here is what he told me:
----
Where do I start, Well First, I have the original Red and off white Denim jacket sample I fit Brad in in 1998. so I'm sewing off the original sample, that is how I get to my duplicates. When I make a jacket for a movie, I make it new they usually take it and age or distress it. As far as the way it hangs and fits on Brad and on you; that vary much depends on your size and his at the time. there is an action back this is for movement and they may have sewn the action back closed I don't know. the padding is the same thickness. there is only three that I use for that process. The other two are double and then triple the thickness.
----
So I think here we are starting to find out the more we want really particular things here, we have to understand that a) these clothes are over 15 years old now, and b) these jackets are created new and then distressed by the costume department. Jonathan isn't involved in the film other than creating jackets as far as I can tell, so he simply does his job and then moves on. That's my impression anyway.
I'm a little unsure why the action back would be sewn closed, but possibly they requested it that way after the original pattern was created and he didn't remember. The man has worked on so many movies and is consistently pumping out work, we can't expect him to remember everything from 15+ years ago. As a graphic designer I have enough trouble remembering all the things I did 3 or 4 projects ago because of the volume of work I move through in a work week. Being a premier Hollywood leather worker has got to be busier than that. Or maybe he does remember and they really did sew it closed for some reason or another. You don't need a lot of movement for 2 short scenes in a film.
I have to say though, honestly, despite the fact that for whatever reason the action back is not screen accurate, I think it looks a lot cooler and it definitely allows for more mobility. I am happy with mine. I will say that I kind of like the stripes a bit thinner though, but it's not going to bug me that they're not the same. On my fabric sample he just drew the stripes in with pencil, I would think it's totally possible the original denim sample didn't have stripes so getting the exact same stripes probably just sort of fell away at some point after time had passed. The stripes on the current JALs are the same thickness as the padding, and the space between the stripes is equal to the size of one stripe. So it's a very uniform look across the whole jacket.
As for the padding, I think iamjwpc nailed it, it's probably due to packing it and moving it. It's 15+ years old after all. One of the things that drew me to JALs version and not something like SouulRevolver or whatever was the definition in the padding, so again, I personally prefer it that way. Hope that clears a few things up.
----
Where do I start, Well First, I have the original Red and off white Denim jacket sample I fit Brad in in 1998. so I'm sewing off the original sample, that is how I get to my duplicates. When I make a jacket for a movie, I make it new they usually take it and age or distress it. As far as the way it hangs and fits on Brad and on you; that vary much depends on your size and his at the time. there is an action back this is for movement and they may have sewn the action back closed I don't know. the padding is the same thickness. there is only three that I use for that process. The other two are double and then triple the thickness.
----
So I think here we are starting to find out the more we want really particular things here, we have to understand that a) these clothes are over 15 years old now, and b) these jackets are created new and then distressed by the costume department. Jonathan isn't involved in the film other than creating jackets as far as I can tell, so he simply does his job and then moves on. That's my impression anyway.
I'm a little unsure why the action back would be sewn closed, but possibly they requested it that way after the original pattern was created and he didn't remember. The man has worked on so many movies and is consistently pumping out work, we can't expect him to remember everything from 15+ years ago. As a graphic designer I have enough trouble remembering all the things I did 3 or 4 projects ago because of the volume of work I move through in a work week. Being a premier Hollywood leather worker has got to be busier than that. Or maybe he does remember and they really did sew it closed for some reason or another. You don't need a lot of movement for 2 short scenes in a film.
I have to say though, honestly, despite the fact that for whatever reason the action back is not screen accurate, I think it looks a lot cooler and it definitely allows for more mobility. I am happy with mine. I will say that I kind of like the stripes a bit thinner though, but it's not going to bug me that they're not the same. On my fabric sample he just drew the stripes in with pencil, I would think it's totally possible the original denim sample didn't have stripes so getting the exact same stripes probably just sort of fell away at some point after time had passed. The stripes on the current JALs are the same thickness as the padding, and the space between the stripes is equal to the size of one stripe. So it's a very uniform look across the whole jacket.
As for the padding, I think iamjwpc nailed it, it's probably due to packing it and moving it. It's 15+ years old after all. One of the things that drew me to JALs version and not something like SouulRevolver or whatever was the definition in the padding, so again, I personally prefer it that way. Hope that clears a few things up.
AJRand
Sr Member
Spoke to Jonathan on the phone as we work together on this product. There are two different versions of the shoulders on the jacket -- One has a blind stitch and the other does not. I can post pictures -- There are some shots where it has this stitch and others where it doesn't. There were 3 jackets made according to JAL. He can make it according to how you want the stitching no problem. The difference is without a blind stitch, the leather appears to overlap while in a blind it simply comes together.
The first three pictures shows my jacket, the last 3 show a blind stitch -- This may help solve the shoulder mystery.
The first three pictures shows my jacket, the last 3 show a blind stitch -- This may help solve the shoulder mystery.
AJRand
Sr Member
Next up: Leather Thickness,
The thickness difference in leather is due to the fact the original jacket as made in calf skin versus what most of our jackets are in is lamb skin.
The reason for this is due to the leather vendors and what colors are available. A Lamb skin will also make the seams and stitching tighter.
In short summary, the vendors create a barrel of color and dye the leather and create it. There may be only a certain amount of calf skin available and there may be none available in the desired color. Likewise, the same could happen with the lamb skin. So if you request lets say a certain color of red in a lamb skin, it may not simply be available. This is part of JAL's beef with the vendor market, they don't create the same leathers every year.
The other issue is the color. JAL explained that reproducing the same color is very high on the difficulty scale. He even gave the example of having a barrel of color and the same leather and dying that leather. If you took that same barrel of color and dyed the same leather (That was undyed and left over) a few days later the leather would come out different than the first dye process.
He stated this has happened in movies where they did a photoshoot and than had him re-create the jacket and the color was close but not exact for the film or whatever.
This is part of the reason why they had to paint the Fight Club jackets. He stated they were trying to keep the colors between the three jackets as close as possible. He is also surprised the jackets aren't cracked for their age and due to the paint. He also said the chemicals in the paint would change the texture of the jacket.
Ultimately, I am going back to the exhibit again today per JAL's request to get a comparison of my jacket to the screen used one. He thinks he can get a very close color and hopefully it will be available in a calf skin. If thats the case, it will probably be one of the closest reproductions we will have.
The thickness difference in leather is due to the fact the original jacket as made in calf skin versus what most of our jackets are in is lamb skin.
The reason for this is due to the leather vendors and what colors are available. A Lamb skin will also make the seams and stitching tighter.
In short summary, the vendors create a barrel of color and dye the leather and create it. There may be only a certain amount of calf skin available and there may be none available in the desired color. Likewise, the same could happen with the lamb skin. So if you request lets say a certain color of red in a lamb skin, it may not simply be available. This is part of JAL's beef with the vendor market, they don't create the same leathers every year.
The other issue is the color. JAL explained that reproducing the same color is very high on the difficulty scale. He even gave the example of having a barrel of color and the same leather and dying that leather. If you took that same barrel of color and dyed the same leather (That was undyed and left over) a few days later the leather would come out different than the first dye process.
He stated this has happened in movies where they did a photoshoot and than had him re-create the jacket and the color was close but not exact for the film or whatever.
This is part of the reason why they had to paint the Fight Club jackets. He stated they were trying to keep the colors between the three jackets as close as possible. He is also surprised the jackets aren't cracked for their age and due to the paint. He also said the chemicals in the paint would change the texture of the jacket.
Ultimately, I am going back to the exhibit again today per JAL's request to get a comparison of my jacket to the screen used one. He thinks he can get a very close color and hopefully it will be available in a calf skin. If thats the case, it will probably be one of the closest reproductions we will have.
AJRand
Sr Member
Yes I didn't say the overlapping was incorrect. One jacket had it, the other didn't -- JAL even confirmed this. It also helps us identify which jacket is which from photos.
The one on display, in the candid photos on set, and from a lot of the movie screencaps (That I have seen) have the blind stitch.
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