Fallout 4: Laser Musket (Photo Heavy)

@ jellis359
I still don't think that having both the bearings and the planetary gears would fit in the space we have to work with. The problem I have it that the 9/16" rod is required, since that is the inner diameter of my driving gears that I pulled from the hand drill. I'd say our best bet would either be
1. the diagram I sent you with the rod catches
2. the modified version you replied with
3. if we want to have them go in the same direction and can deal with the slowing turning due to the gear rations, this is what I mentioned earlier:
20150925_082654.jpg
This was just a quick sketch, and of course the teeth would need to line up, but if we can have the catches on the inside of the sun gear, and build the rest of the capped "gear" around the outside, it could produce esentially everything we need. Delayed start, clockwise rotation, and a slight spin off with the rod catches.
With either herringbone gears or a piece to hold the planets in place, which would be attached to the stock, we could hold everything in place.

If that's not feasible, I think I will go with all counter clockwise rotation, and rod catches.

In either case, could you send me the modified capped gear when you are done, with just a 9/16" center hole? I don't get access to solidworks through my university unless I can prove that I'm taking a course that requires it, so that it off the table unfortunately.
 
I'm starting to assemble the planetary gears they are very small roughly the size of a small stack of gold dollars or quarters. I'm gonna start experimenting with the design of these cheap tamiya's tonight. Simultaneously ill resize my original bearing model for your rod. I seriously believe you should consider a smaller diameter and possibly just use a coupler to attach it to your 9/16 for the cranks shaft



uploadfromtaptalk1443204986576.JPGuploadfromtaptalk1443204999080.JPG

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
@ jellis359
I still don't think that having both the bearings and the planetary gears would fit in the space we have to work with. The problem I have it that the 9/16" rod is required, since that is the inner diameter of my driving gears that I pulled from the hand drill. I'd say our best bet would either be
1. the diagram I sent you with the rod catches
2. the modified version you replied with
3. if we want to have them go in the same direction and can deal with the slowing turning due to the gear rations, this is what I mentioned earlier:
View attachment 533155
This was just a quick sketch, and of course the teeth would need to line up, but if we can have the catches on the inside of the sun gear, and build the rest of the capped "gear" around the outside, it could produce esentially everything we need. Delayed start, clockwise rotation, and a slight spin off with the rod catches.
With either herringbone gears or a piece to hold the planets in place, which would be attached to the stock, we could hold everything in place.

If that's not feasible, I think I will go with all counter clockwise rotation, and rod catches.

In either case, could you send me the modified capped gear when you are done, with just a 9/16" center hole? I don't get access to solidworks through my university unless I can prove that I'm taking a course that requires it, so that it off the table unfortunately.
I think we would still need the one way bearing for the spin off. the planetary is going to reverse the direction of the spin. I should be able to replace the slotted collar for the shaft with the tamiya planetary for the delay. I'm slowly mulling things over.

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
I know that the planetary changes the direction. That's what my drawing it showing, with the capped gears essentially being a planetary gear kit with the caps built on top. This would allow the two capped gears to rotate clockwise, while the rod and centre tooth gear are rotating counter-clockwise. Let me know when you get everything aassembled.
I definitely could get a rod of a smaller diameter, I'm just trying to avoid it if I can. The size is perfect for how it looks through the tube capacitor, and at the driving gear/ crank. I also don't have the tools to cut it down and attach it to a smaller diameter, and using a smaller diameter through the centre of my drive gears could have them rotating unevenly if it isn't epoxyed in at the exact middle.
 
I'm gonna start making the planetary rotors today along with the bearing from the original plan.

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Oh you were planning on making the bearings? Ok well please let me know if it all works and send me a parts list if you get it going. I thought you plan was to buy the bearings and planetary kits, which sounded kind of expensive since we would need two of each. I do agree though that making the capped gears into a planetary system probably wouldn't work. The drawing I gave is to scale- the parts would be very thin and fragile. I think having them attached to the sides of the capped gears would be the way to go.
 
Ok back to updates. Last night I learned enough AutoCAD to get started on my take of the capped gear. I'm still trying to figure out how to add a 45 degree bezel around the cylinder, but if I can't it can always be sanded down after:
Screenshot_134.pngScreenshot_135.png
These have my original idea of rod/gear catches you can see in the middle. This can be changed if the bearing/planetary kit solution ends up working. The 12 caps will be printed separately, and the centre cylinder has cut outs to fit all the caps in. I'm still not sure if I should either hollow out, or honey comb the inside of the cylinder. If anyone with experience 3d printing wants to chime in, that would be wonderful.

On a side note, I'm mostly finished designing the barrel cap:
20150920_175233.jpg
The design has been slightly changed since this photo (laser hole moved up to match barrel centre, not cap centre, and angled pieces added to the design). These two pieces will also need to accommodate the octagonal beam focuser holder barrel thing.

I've also transferred the gear holder/front grip design to styrene:
20150927_130807.jpg
Once cut out, this will be bent to match the cardboard shape shown in the picture. I will likely design the laser barrel grip and cut that out first, since jumping right into such a big piece having never cut styrene before isn't a great idea. If I have the time, I plan on designing and cutting the laser barrel grip out later today.
 
closeupt.PNG
that was a lot of modeling lol. but its all there.from your slotted collar to the bearing to the planetary gear system. the s are ready when your are. the caps and blocks will go on separately with adhesive

I added the stl file for 3d printing this . it is in the correct rod bore diameter. you will also need to buy 2 of these for the spinoff.http://www.mcmaster.com/#2489k7/=z55fae


I'm going to prototype this for you first to make sure it works.
 

Attachments

  • from this to that.PNG
    from this to that.PNG
    139.9 KB · Views: 142
  • vgj.PNG
    vgj.PNG
    186.1 KB · Views: 148
  • sdf.PNG
    sdf.PNG
    127.5 KB · Views: 138
  • .stl files for 3d printer.zip
    64.7 KB · Views: 182
Last edited:
:eek My lord you actually did it. Spin up, planetary reverse direction, and room for the spin off bearing. I didn't think it would be possible, and I'm sorry for not believing in you. What are the dimensions on that? I'm guessing the bearing goes in between the slotted collar and sun gear? Please let me know how the prototype goes. If I wasn't excited before, I definitely am now. Kudos man, great work.
 
I'm just changing a few things and adding some pieces to make assembly simpler for when I get the first prototype printed. I should finish this tomorrow then have it printed shortly after. I'm shooting for finishing testing the first model Sunday.
 
assembly.PNG
gear mech.PNG


so I sent in the order for the first prototype. we'll now how it comes out by this weekend hopefully

ive also addressed the concerns you had about the center gear. the above picture is my revised version.
 
Last edited:
Awesome, I hope it goes well. What were the dimensions though? were they to the drawing I sent you? Hopefully the gear teeth hold up. I see you made the planets bigger, but at the expense of smaller (though more, which should help) teeth. I'm not sure which concern you are referring to though.

Anyways I have a few updates. I'm still scaling out and designing the barrel grip, so I went ahead and just cut out the gear holder/front grip:
20150929_185006.jpg20150929_193207.jpg
I definitely could use a finer teethed jigsaw blade, but the styrene files quite easily, so it turned out ok. I tested the heat gun on a piece of scrap and then went for the full piece:
20151001_212806.jpg20151001_204203.jpg
I still have to bend the under-stock front grip. Planning on doing that tomorrow.
In order to accommodate the barrel grip, I needed to modify my stock, which was a shame, but it will be covered up anyways. This took a lot longer than it probably looks:
20151002_210001.jpg
I'm planning on getting some stains and If I can find one that is similar in colour, I will likely end up modifying the pistol grip to accept the trigger guard as it is in game. This part here will be covered by the barrel grip anyways, So how it looks doesn't really matter.
 
so i believe steve king and i have finalized the designs for the capped rotor. the file for the caps is not included but i figure i would make those out of foam anyway.
sorry dude i couldnt do it with the 9/16 inch shaft. it was just to difficult to print the number of teeth necessary for that diametral pitch gear teeth. this model DOES WORK.
there is a video in the zip file of the new gear working it was just a test but it shows our progress. to make things easier on your i have also designed miter gears for this new shaft so you can print them as well and not have to worry about finding matching ones.

also you will need to buy this new one way lock bearing to complete the assembly
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2489k6/=z80xzn




SteveKing is your hero on this his work with the 3d printer was amazing he did dozens of test prints for me to get this working. if you order yours to be 3d printed he deserves to do it for you. USE NO ONE ELSE LOL
use queenie and steve's hub on 3dhubs.com

newest final assembly.PNG

View attachment pin collar washer x2.zip

View attachment new design.zip

oops forgot one file (there should be 2 there now)

all of these files create one rotor assembly ONE!

you will still need assorted nuts and bolts (6) to attach the carrier to the planets then to the other carrier

youll also need to do some drilling and placing of set screws.

i will detail this construction for you later unless you want to just go for it.

and heres a file for the new gears in the center of the rotors

View attachment musket gear.zip
 
Last edited:
Looks awesome. yeah if you wouldn't mind detailing the construction that would definitely help. There are so many files now, it's hard to follow without instructions.

I found some time to work on the LM as well this weekend, so I've got a few updates.
I tested out a few different stains and decided to get two different stain, which when mixed (don't worry, they are chemically compatible) will hopefully produce the dark walnut orange I am going for. It's the one on the far left in the picture below:
20151003_165945.jpg
I also finished the gear holder/front grip. These two bends were actually a lot easier than the last:
20151003_191311.jpg
And I just finished cutting out and bending the first piece of the laser rifle barrel grip. Here you can see how important the modification to the stock is, and just how far the grip would be sticking out if i hadn't made it:
20151004_212925.jpg20151004_215942.jpg20151004_220019.jpg
After bending, this piece is about 5mm too tall, so i have some work to do shortening it. the notches on the top are for the laser rifle barrel, which will have slots cut into it to fit.
 

Attachments

  • 20151004_220019.jpg
    20151004_220019.jpg
    931.1 KB · Views: 141
Jellis359, The gearing looks good. Don't forget you have to hold the planetary gears in place for it to transfer to the outer ring.

Aces, I am amazed at how crisp the bend and plastic look.
 
zapwizard
They are held by a plate on either side that fits into a channel on the ring. You can see it here. Good?uploadfromtaptalk1444481595254.png

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys, just stumbled upon this thread per @jellis359

I'm building my own laser musket too (http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=246968) with some different subcomponents, but I'm going to try keeping an eye on the other builds and help out if I can. Mine will be a mix of 3D modeled/printed, clear thermoplastics, and (hopefully) dynamic lighting to simulate the crackle effect.

Yours in hella impressive - can't wait to see how it progresses!
 
RockIt Awesome to see more people working on the laser musket, maybe we can help each other out with the builds.
jellis359 Did you end up having the time to put the cog assembly together? I'm excited to see how it works and get mine printed.

So I have some updates on my LM, though progress has been slow with my workload ramping up toward the end of the month. Mostly I've been working on modifications to get everything fitting together. After that, its time to move on to electronics, finishing up a few other constructs (beam focusers, trigger guard, and the scope), and then moving on to actually putting everything together, adding more detail, and then of course, painting. Here's what I've been doing over the past week or so:
20151012_002703.jpg20151012_002735.jpg20151012_002851.jpg
This may not look like much, but the cut out of the focuser holder was very hard to get right with the concave curves. It doesn't need to be perfect though, since it will be hidden, so i didn't waste time sanding it down nice and smooth. The reason these cuts had to be made was for extra support for the beam focusers. I'm planning on bolting the holder to both the stock, and rifle barrel, which should support what's going on the end. If i had simply cut the holder short, I'm not certain it would be able to hold the wait.

Next was the first modification I needed to make to the rifle barrel:
20151015_222428.jpg20151015_222349.jpg
These slots were also a bit trickier than it looks. This is also another reason the focuser holder needed to be cut, since it needs to sit low enough into the stock to allow for the rifle barrel to sit at the correct height, and let the barrel grip be held up between the slits, and the stock.

It was also time to say goodbye to the pistol grip to make room for the accurate trigger guard, which wouldn't sit right with the more acute angle that was there before. Unfortunately my stain is a tad lighter than the rest of the stock. I'm still looking for a good solutions to this. hopefully after i weather the stock, it will be less apparent:
20151015_221900.jpg20151016_195315.jpg

I've also discovered that a 9v battery fits very well into the magazine entry on the stock:
20151015_222049.jpg
One problem i have though is that the only angel eye led rings I can find are 12v, but they would work perfectly to light up the tube. since i plan on adding a few more LEDs to the circuit as well, a 9v won't be able to power all of it.
Additionally, the flashlight has a 4.3v battery, so a 12v angel eye ring is far out of reach, and i will need to find another reliable way to light up the tube for the crank up/fade out, even if i can solve my problem for the trigger flash mentioned above. These are things i will have to mull over. If anyone has any input on solutions, I'm all ears.
 

Attachments

  • 20151015_222349.jpg
    20151015_222349.jpg
    763.2 KB · Views: 129
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top