ecl's Kermit the Frog Puppet Replica (later builds, using my newest patterns)

[ecl]

You have been incredibly helpful, I really appreciate it! I'll be sure to share some pics of Kermit when he is complete. I know you previously stated that you haven't reproduced any other muppets yet but if you ever do I'd love to see them!

You're welcome! I look forward to seeing pics of your build. I'm definitely to try building another character at some point, and eventually possibly another based on an original design as well. Puppet building is actually kind of fun!

Here's the "photo puppet" version I made. I actually removed the wires in the arms and legs, so he's now more of a hybrid of a traditional posable photo puppet and the puppet kermit. I didn't want to worry about the wires eventually breaking from repeated use, so I just left the wires in the neck and mouth in place.

 

[DFW]

I just finished up my 4th Kermit Puppet build. It never seems to end, as I'm always seeing things that need to be improved. This time, it was the shape and material of the mouth-plate that motivated me to make this one, along with a scale modification after I spent some time studying an original Kermit up close in an exhibition here early this year. Kermit looked surprisingly small in person--not much bigger than the MR replicas Kermit. I redid most of my patterns, especially the head, as this time I used rubber as the mouth-plate material, giving him a wider range of emotions. Overall, this Kermit is also slightly smaller than my earlier builds--even closer to the original I observed. Even then, he is still just over two feet in height. Materials used, except for the rubber mouth-plate, are the same as previous builds: antron fleece from "Puppet Pelts" (a great shop), black adhesive velvet, ultrasuede (red), jewelry wire (fingers), felt, 35mm domes (Puppet Pelts).


I'll start with the pics of the final result:

Some progress photos below! I'm not releasing the new patterns for this build, as it just took far too much work on them to get to this point, however, the modifications were done to the patterns I've previously posted on my earlier Kermit build. I'll eventually write up a few tips/tutorials on how to customize the head pattern to your own hand.


Pattern Bag: It took me 6 different designs to arrive at the head that you see on this build. Most of the changes were small, but made big differences!

The feet are based more on the iconic Kermit feet than the earlier flat looking style that I used on my previous build.

Arm/hands patterns were upgraded by combining the palm with the arm (like the MR pattern). A bit more streamlined than my earlier pattern.

Styrene "palm" insert. The finger wires were hooked and then epoxied into the plate for more security.

The eyes are 35mm domes (scaled down from the 40mm ping pongs I'd used on my previous builds), purchased from "Puppet Pelts", and then painted. I also modified the attachment in the back with a nylon screw and nut, as I wanted them to be removable. At some point I may sand down the profile of the nut so that it is less intrusive on the performer's hand.

Giving the felt a slightly yellow tint. I wanted the felt to have a slightly more lime appearance with a hint of yellow, to make it look more like some of the earlier Kermits. The exhibition one I saw had a collar similar to this color:

I'll update more with some tutorial drawings and tips!

Im sorry I cant seem to find the collar pattern. I know you had it on here somewhere. Am I just not seeing it? Sorry

 

[Dherzing]

Super cool!

 

[SpuppetFX]

Hi! I used your patterns and advice on my university project, to build a Kermit at over 6ft tall. Just made an account to thank you, I couldn't have done it without you!

View attachment 0E0A0065.JPG

 

[ecl]

Hi! I used your patterns and advice on my university project, to build a Kermit at over 6ft tall. Just made an account to thank you, I couldn't have done it without you!

View attachment 941450

Super cool, I saw this a few days ago on facebook! Now that is really awesome! This is the kind of thing that I love seeing; projects that push the level of creativity, and I'm happy that I could help in some way! Really amazing work, and certainly a one of a kind, that's for sure!

 

[DFW]

I can't seem to find the patterns you had on here originally. Could I please get the collar pattern from you?

 

[ecl]

I can't seem to find the patterns you had on here originally. Could I please get the collar pattern from you?

The patterns I'd posted originally are my old first gen. patterns; they were posted in my original build thread for my earlier attempts at making Kermit.

Hand stitched Kermit the Frog puppet replica!!

Just keep in mind that the patterns I use now are quite evolved from these, but they're still a good starting point for anyone curious about trying to make their own. The Kermit builds you see in this thread are based on my new patterns (these I'm not posting). They're basically much more refined and accurate in sizing to an original Kermit puppet I had the chance to look at up close.

 

[DFW]

The patterns I'd posted originally are my old first gen. patterns; they were posted in my original build thread for my earlier attempts at making Kermit.

Hand stitched Kermit the Frog puppet replica!!

Just keep in mind that the patterns I use now are quite evolved from these, but they're still a good starting point for anyone curious about trying to make their own. The Kermit builds you see in this thread are based on my new patterns (these I'm not posting). They're basically much more refined and accurate in sizing to an original Kermit puppet I had the chance to look at up close.

Well I appreciate everything you've been willing to share, thank you! Sorry I had forgotten where I saw those patterns. My approach to this project was to use card stock and basically build Kermit out of the patterns before I even touch any of the other fabrics used. Seems to be a good way to go about it without making any costly mistakes.

 

[chencc6]

Hi ecl,
Thank you for sharing. I can't wait to make my own kermit now. But I have a few questions.Is the styrene for mouth were cut into 2 pieces? I really want to use the same Plastruct styrene just like yours, but I'm not in the US, and I really quite don't know much about these plastic things.Can I use ABS sheet instead?

 

[chencc6]

Hi ecl,
I read your articles again. I have few questions. I want to make a kermit which mouth can open or close just like photos(photos come from social media).
1. Do I need add stuffing in his head to hold his head up?
2. behind the mouthplate base rubber sheet do I need armature wire to hold his mouth?

Big thanks.

 

[ecl]

Hello! I no longer use styrene for my mouth-plates on my new builds. I recommend something like a gasket rubber; that’s basically a thin rubber sheet. It’s much more flexible. I’m not sure where you’d find it where you are, but I get mine in small pieces at the hardware store near the plumbing section.

As for your questions:

1) I do put stuffing in the neck area of my builds, and a shaped piece of foam for the top of his head, but this is only to give his head shape while on display. When you use it as a puppet, there should be no stuffing in the head (kermit’s Head shape is basically the person’s hand). It really depends on if you want to build a puppet Kermit, or a “poser” puppet, like in the photos you showed above. That one basically does have wires, foam, and stuffing inside to give him shape and a posable mouth.

For display, I do this with my puppet builds:

2) If you want his mouth to be posable (non-puppet version) then yes, I add wires to the back side of the mouthplate to allow it to open and close. I’ve made one version with the wires in his body for my ‘poser’ kermit, and I also add a thicker wire from the bottom of the mouthplate that does through his body—basically like a spine, where the arms and leg wires also connect!

But my puppet versions just have the removable stuffing and foam you see above. I dont put wires in those, so his mouth just kind of stays kind of open naturally when sitting there


Below is a photo of my “poser photo puppet” with wiring inside. Basically, in this one there is wiring that connects his arms, legs, mouth, to a spine in the center that connects to the bottom of his mouth-plate.

 

[DFW]

Coming to the end of my kermit build and was curious about how you did the hand rods. I'd like for them to be removable, if possible, for when he's on display. Again, you've been so very helpful and I am very grateful for all you have shared. Don't think this build would've been possible without all your help. Thank you thank you thank you

 

[DFW]

Forgot to ask if you made your rods or if you found them online

 

[ecl]

Coming to the end of my kermit build and was curious about how you did the hand rods. I'd like for them to be removable, if possible, for when he's on display. Again, you've been so very helpful and I am very grateful for all you have shared. Don't think this build would've been possible without all your help. Thank you thank you thank you

I made my arm rods out of a thin metal rod (found in a model hobby shop), and wood dowels—both painted black. I simply drilled a small hole into the dowel and epoxied the rod to it. The end of the rod was bent into an L shape, or like a handlebar. I’m not sure how they were done on the original kermits, but this seems to work pretty well, while being removable.

 

[chencc6]

Hello! I no longer use styrene for my mouth-plates on my new builds. I recommend something like a gasket rubber; that’s basically a thin rubber sheet. It’s much more flexible. I’m not sure where you’d find it where you are, but I get mine in small pieces at the hardware store near the plumbing section.

As for your questions:

1) I do put stuffing in the neck area of my builds, and a shaped piece of foam for the top of his head, but this is only to give his head shape while on display. When you use it as a puppet, there should be no stuffing in the head (kermit’s Head shape is basically the person’s hand). It really depends on if you want to build a puppet Kermit, or a “poser” puppet, like in the photos you showed above. That one basically does have wires, foam, and stuffing inside to give him shape and a posable mouth.

For display, I do this with my puppet builds:
View attachment 960190


2) If you want his mouth to be posable (non-puppet version) then yes, I add wires to the back side of the mouthplate to allow it to open and close. I’ve made one version with the wires in his body for my ‘poser’ kermit, and I also add a thicker wire from the bottom of the mouthplate that does through his body—basically like a spine, where the arms and leg wires also connect!

But my puppet versions just have the removable stuffing and foam you see above. I dont put wires in those, so his mouth just kind of stays kind of open naturally when sitting there


Below is a photo of my “poser photo puppet” with wiring inside. Basically, in this one there is wiring that connects his arms, legs, mouth, to a spine in the center that connects to the bottom of his mouth-plate.

View attachment 960192

Wow, your poser kermit is really cool. I want to make a poser kermit too. So there should have four holes in he's body to make the body spine right? and, beside wires in his legs and arms, do I need add stuffing? the rubber for mouth-plates is cut into two pieces or just one fold piece? I have too many questions.you are so patient.

 

[ecl]

Wow, your poser kermit is really cool. I want to make a poser kermit too. So there should have four holes in he's body to make the body spine right? and, beside wires in his legs and arms, do I need add stuffing? the rubber for mouth-plates is cut into two pieces or just one fold piece? I have too many questions.you are so patient.

Thanks Yes basically the wires simply go through 4 holes on the body for leg and arm wires to go through. You can make those holes after you figure out how to wrap the fleece around the foam body (which on the poser Kermit is solid). Basically, I build it similar to my puppets, except that I have to kind of build it around the metal wire skeleton. I did add stuffing to the limbs around the wire, but I think using some kind of thinner foam wrapped around the wire might work better. It’s hard to stuff it with the wire in the limbs, because the stuffing can get ‘clumpy’ sometimes. The mouthplate is two pieces; the red portion of his mouth in the front is glued over both, and you can add some duct tape or something else on the back side where it ‘bends’

Here is a simple way to construct a mouthplate. There are other ways you could do it; but the more layers you add to it, the more stiff it becomes. If you want more expressions and flexibility, try to keep the plate simple. As mentioned, there are two separate pieces of the rubber—top and bottom.

 

[Jamie Staff]

Love this build.... Looks like they need to be in the "see no evil hear no evil speak no evil" Pose

 

[directorwho]

me again, I find myself just reading this every other day even though I make no progress on my build. I bought 2 yards of fleece to practice on and have about 6 or 7 heads without eyes. I put them in a bag... Each one is a little different, but sometimes I changed something and it changes something I didn't anticipate. My brother really likes my most recent prototype, but my parents are confused what changes each time I send them a picture. One issue I am trying to resolve is a excess of fabric that is appearing on the left side of Kermit's face. On images of Kermit you can see this on the right side. I can't really seem to fix this issue without making the pattern tight around my wrist. It's really stopping me from finishing. I have read countless articles all about puppet building, and I love the line that everyone says "the fleece hides seams really well" I have tried all the stitches I can think of on strips, and picked the stitches fast and slow. I feel crazy doing all this to feel that the seam on top of Kermit's head is still clearly visible. I have even contacted Rick Lyon and he graciously gave me some tips on some questions I had asked him.

Thanks ecl, I am really excited to finish him, but I'm worried that he get used so much he'll start to look worn.

 

[ecl]

me again, I find myself just reading this every other day even though I make no progress on my build. I bought 2 yards of fleece to practice on and have about 6 or 7 heads without eyes. I put them in a bag... Each one is a little different, but sometimes I changed something and it changes something I didn't anticipate. My brother really likes my most recent prototype, but my parents are confused what changes each time I send them a picture. One issue I am trying to resolve is a excess of fabric that is appearing on the left side of Kermit's face. On images of Kermit you can see this on the right side. I can't really seem to fix this issue without making the pattern tight around my wrist. It's really stopping me from finishing. I have read countless articles all about puppet building, and I love the line that everyone says "the fleece hides seams really well" I have tried all the stitches I can think of on strips, and picked the stitches fast and slow. I feel crazy doing all this to feel that the seam on top of Kermit's head is still clearly visible. I have even contacted Rick Lyon and he graciously gave me some tips on some questions I had asked him.View attachment 960822
Thanks ecl, I am really excited to finish him, but I'm worried that he get used so much he'll start to look worn.

Kermit is a surprisingly difficult character to make; possibly even more so than a lot of the other Muppets. One of the reasons for this is that his head is basically a sock puppet, which means everyone’s hand will influence the shape of a particular kermit build differntly. There are so many small factors involved that add up to noticeable differences! I know what you mean about the appearance of “excess fabric” appearing on one side of his face. I’ve seen this in my builds as well, and honestly, if you look at references of the original Kermits, it shows up all the time. I believe the main reason for this is the fact that the hand itself is not symmetrical despite the pattern being symmetrical; the way it forms over the hand will make it look different. But generally, if you want to adjust the amount of fabric around the “cheeks” the best way is to add a little bit more depth to the area around the mouth.

Something like this would give you more room to work with—extending the mouth line on the pattern outward a little. Below are some observations I’ve made over the course of adjusting my head patterns:

Don’t worry too much. Kermit is an extremely tough character to make. It took me dozens of heads with many modifications to the pattern before I arrived at something that I’m happy with. And also don’t forget; even when you do settle on a pattern you like, every piece you sew based on that pattern will be slightly different; that’s just the reality with working with fabric that has some flex to it and getting things to fit around the mouthplate. There will be subtle differences.

Also, are you using Antron Fleece? Regular fleece does not hide seams well at all. Also, if you get Antron Fleece, I’d recommend the 15oz. Version, not the 12 oz. The 15 oz. fleece has a much more robust and deeper “fuzz” (not sure what else to call it haha), which really makes hiding seams much easier. I’m sure you’ve discovered now that puppet building is a whole lot of trial and error...maybe more so than other types of prop building. Fabric is unforgiving, and having to keep going back to the pattern blueprints, modifying that, and then doing it all over again, is a maddening thing. I totally understand the feeling!

Here’s a pic of my 4th build. Notice the seam looks mostly invisible in the first pic:

But can be slightly visible as a kind of shadow depending on the light (below). This exact thing happens on the originals as well.

Also, if your fleece is starting to look used and worn.....I think that’s awesome Kermit often appeared that way in the films and show, especially in the early Henson years (My favorite versions of Kermit are the early ones).

I’m glad to hear you heard from Rick Lyon. That’s great that he’s willing to share some tips

 

[directorwho]

Yes I did get Antron fleece, that was the first thing I purchased. I got 2 yards of 12oz to get the patterns down and now I'm working with the 15oz. It stretches pretty similarly. All my tests for hiding the seam were done with the 15oz. I guess i will just have to practice more. Thanks for your detailed response. I will take your drawings and put them in my reference photo program, PureRef its great, and free.