thumbsup:thumbsupA day and a half left to submit or modify your entry! The judges have an awfully difficult job!
DR Who-Sonic Design Competition (winners announced)
- Thread starter Rassilon
- Start date
thumbsup:thumbsupA day and a half left to submit or modify your entry! The judges have an awfully difficult job!
Doctor49152
Member
A day and a half left to submit or modify your entry! The judges have an awfully difficult job!
we can modify our entries?? I was not aware of that! There are a few 'tweaks' I want to make to my design.
thegalifreyanco
New Member
I've got a design but I don't know whether to post it or not. I'm from the uk
thegalifreyanco
New Member
Here's my design
Absolutely. As I've mentioned previously any edits made prior to the deadline are legit.
If you don't enter you have no chance of winning... So post it and tell us the story behind your design! International is no problem. :thumbsup
BlameItOnGreg
New Member
I've been lurking the RPF for awhile now; this contest got me to finally become a member. Design contests are always so cool!
Anyway, like a few of the others, I took inspiration from a good ol' trusty normal screwdriver with my design. That coupled with a mechanism idea I had.
• The diameter of the grip is 25 mm
• The diameter of the brass sphere is 20 mm
• The diameter of the cylinder that the fins and sliders are around is 11 mm
• The main octagonal shaft is 7.5 mm thick (side to side, not point to point).
A lot of why I like this design is because of its opening and closing movement, so I threw together a really rough animation so that you can get a sense of how the thing moves. The looping gif is in the spoiler tag below.
While the movement looks like it would call for intricate mechanics, it doesn't. The arms are simply hinged at the top, and there is a blue elastic band that pulls them all toward the center. When you extend the tip, the arms are pulled up and follow the curve of the sphere, which splays them out.
As far as materials go, I'm looking at an anodized aluminum look to the silver metal, brushed brass for the yellow metal, and an amber transparent resin/plastic for the grip. The other blue bit on there would just be 2 or 3 more elastic bands wrapped around that part.
Anyway, like a few of the others, I took inspiration from a good ol' trusty normal screwdriver with my design. That coupled with a mechanism idea I had.
• The diameter of the grip is 25 mm
• The diameter of the brass sphere is 20 mm
• The diameter of the cylinder that the fins and sliders are around is 11 mm
• The main octagonal shaft is 7.5 mm thick (side to side, not point to point).
A lot of why I like this design is because of its opening and closing movement, so I threw together a really rough animation so that you can get a sense of how the thing moves. The looping gif is in the spoiler tag below.
While the movement looks like it would call for intricate mechanics, it doesn't. The arms are simply hinged at the top, and there is a blue elastic band that pulls them all toward the center. When you extend the tip, the arms are pulled up and follow the curve of the sphere, which splays them out.
As far as materials go, I'm looking at an anodized aluminum look to the silver metal, brushed brass for the yellow metal, and an amber transparent resin/plastic for the grip. The other blue bit on there would just be 2 or 3 more elastic bands wrapped around that part.
Last edited:
Exactly the type of member we're looking for! Welcome to the forum! I love the open/close mechanic.
Hmmm... This is a tough one but I'm going to err on the side of you need to add dimensions (not necessarily to your image but your description). My rationale:
While the grid certainly gives reference to sizes which is the original intent of the rule it isn't specific unless the parts line up perfectly with the grid. The grid is a great idea though. Maybe find a scale that you're happy with and then add numbers to your description post.
Good luck!
Calufrax
Well-Known Member
Well, I've already posted this as a thread before, but I've tinkered with it on and off since last year, repainting it, remaking some bits. If I had a chance to have the copper bits milled, I would make them sharper as the parts taper like on the Eccleston/Tennant sonics. I'd also mill them out of brass instead of copper, but it will have to wait until I have a metal lathe to go with the wood one I currently used to turn the body parts out of PVC. Anyway, thought I cast it upon the thread before it closed for entries.
Doctor49152
Member
ok. I've made a few small tweaks. I made the neck simpler. I decided I didn't like the clear. I've also added some details to the prongs. Put in a location for a jumbo bright tri-color LED into the head. It would match the color of the selected mode.
I also changed the bottom to include 'glow-wire' and a red LED for the sonic lance effect. This actually could be a real burning laser if wanted.
I do electronics so I would be able to create the simple circuit for this sonic. Maybe even a femtoduino.
Link to Large Image
I also changed the bottom to include 'glow-wire' and a red LED for the sonic lance effect. This actually could be a real burning laser if wanted.
I do electronics so I would be able to create the simple circuit for this sonic. Maybe even a femtoduino.
Link to Large Image
That's great Doctor49152. Can you edit that addition into your original entry post? I'll only be quoting one post per member.
LAST DAY for entries! Submission period closes at midnight tonight!
LAST DAY for entries! Submission period closes at midnight tonight!
FOUR HOURS left...
greatwazoo42
Master Member
FOUR HOURS left...
Last chance to bring the pain troopers!!!
Well, here's my just under the wire entry...
My goal was to create a sonic with design elements from both the tenth and eleventh Doctor Sonics, without feeling too derivative of either.
Further than that, I tried to keep in mind the true purpose of a sonic screwdriver (at least according to my DK Visual Dictionaries); as a multipurpose tool for diagnosing and servicing the TARDIS, including areas that would otherwise be unreachable in the depths of her inner-workings.
Up top, we've got an aluminum (aluminium, for those in more civilized countries) 4-strut cage design inspired by the 10, but which extends 3.5mm to reveal an inner core like the 11. When extended, the blue core is lit up, even if the Sonic is not activated (this is to simulate some sort of read-out, in keeping with Matt Smith's method of usage).
Below that is a brass section engraved with Gallifreyan text. (Operation instructions, perhaps? We may never know).
Below that is a button. For me, the inclusion of a button was more than just a real-world operational necessity; it's a very deliberate design choice. The modern Sonic Screwdrivers have been designed to not have an activation button. The button is for the actor's use, not the Doctor's. while I can accept psychic setting selection, I feel like he should still have to push a button to implement it. Because I feel that a buttonless device that's been manufactured by the TARDIS is contrary to the design of the TARDIS; she's a ship whose instruments are cobbled together and ramshackle. She's a time machine with a manual typewriter on her console! Thus: it only makes sense that the Sonic Screwdriver should have a manual aspect to it as well. Also, despite the fact that the modern Sonics are supposed to be buttonless, the button ends up on screen anyway, so why even try to hide it?
As we transition to copper, you'll see that the top of the handle section slopes down to where the button is. This allows the button to be found quickly. Further, the top section of the handle has a small gap before the rest of the handle... This was my nod to the classic design Sonic Screwdriver... Pulling back on the lip of the top ring pushes the top ring back toward the rest of the handle section and extends the sonic, which is spring-loaded.
Then the rest of the copper section is ridged for a better grip, and another nod to the design of the 10.
Below that are three settings rings with a ribbed edge (like a US quarter). These are for fine-tuning settings, which results in a sight pitch change when adjusted. These are aluminum or steel.
Below that is the end cap. It is black. It does not contain a pen.
Hope you guys like it and best of luck to everyone. There's a lot of really great stuff here.
***Edited because I forgot the brass collar around the central core. Added it in real quick
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
My goal was to create a sonic with design elements from both the tenth and eleventh Doctor Sonics, without feeling too derivative of either.
Further than that, I tried to keep in mind the true purpose of a sonic screwdriver (at least according to my DK Visual Dictionaries); as a multipurpose tool for diagnosing and servicing the TARDIS, including areas that would otherwise be unreachable in the depths of her inner-workings.
Up top, we've got an aluminum (aluminium, for those in more civilized countries) 4-strut cage design inspired by the 10, but which extends 3.5mm to reveal an inner core like the 11. When extended, the blue core is lit up, even if the Sonic is not activated (this is to simulate some sort of read-out, in keeping with Matt Smith's method of usage).
Below that is a brass section engraved with Gallifreyan text. (Operation instructions, perhaps? We may never know).
Below that is a button. For me, the inclusion of a button was more than just a real-world operational necessity; it's a very deliberate design choice. The modern Sonic Screwdrivers have been designed to not have an activation button. The button is for the actor's use, not the Doctor's. while I can accept psychic setting selection, I feel like he should still have to push a button to implement it. Because I feel that a buttonless device that's been manufactured by the TARDIS is contrary to the design of the TARDIS; she's a ship whose instruments are cobbled together and ramshackle. She's a time machine with a manual typewriter on her console! Thus: it only makes sense that the Sonic Screwdriver should have a manual aspect to it as well. Also, despite the fact that the modern Sonics are supposed to be buttonless, the button ends up on screen anyway, so why even try to hide it?
As we transition to copper, you'll see that the top of the handle section slopes down to where the button is. This allows the button to be found quickly. Further, the top section of the handle has a small gap before the rest of the handle... This was my nod to the classic design Sonic Screwdriver... Pulling back on the lip of the top ring pushes the top ring back toward the rest of the handle section and extends the sonic, which is spring-loaded.
Then the rest of the copper section is ridged for a better grip, and another nod to the design of the 10.
Below that are three settings rings with a ribbed edge (like a US quarter). These are for fine-tuning settings, which results in a sight pitch change when adjusted. These are aluminum or steel.
Below that is the end cap. It is black. It does not contain a pen.
Hope you guys like it and best of luck to everyone. There's a lot of really great stuff here.
***Edited because I forgot the brass collar around the central core. Added it in real quick
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Last edited:
Very nice entry! Love the incorporation of the Gallifreyan text. :thumbsup
Doctor49152
Member
jazzygeoffery
Well-Known Member
Just making sure my entry worked on page 6 before the contest closes
Just making sure my entry worked on page 6 before the contest closes
Yep. You're good.
ONE AND A HALF HOURS!!!!
Get 'em in folks.
Get 'em in folks.
