Doctor Who: Shark Eaten Sonic Screwdriver, and Modded 11's Screwdriver

I cut just beneath the brass ring, and above the bottom ridge. it now slides, utilizing the design of the bottom button. the emitter head could be flattened, and i don't see why you couldn't change the LED, i did on the shark eaten one.
 
Haven't found a way at getting into the LED yet, though I haven't really been focusing much on that part yet. I did use a file to flatten the emitter a bit, mind.

I've removed the spring, however, when I flick it open it triggers the switch. xD
 
Not yet, I'll work on that when I'm next off shift. At the minute, it's a case of if I flick it hard enough, the bottom button will catch on the red tubing on the inside.
 
Vlair said:
Nick: If you're planning to do that, you're going to have a hell of a time with the toy as a base. See, the slider inside is two different sizes, plus has holes drilled into it, its a problem to take off without cutting off the brass piece of the slider, or popping the emmiter off, which will disconnect the wires. you'd also have to rework the battery compartment, as well as the placement (and probably the soundboard size, if the Tennant CO was any indicator. ). then rework the slider, so it actually extends and slides. as well as holding the soundboard in place, so you can have the microswitch in one place. It'll be far more work than I think you think it'll be.
Click to expand...

I fully expect it to be a lot of work. Take PulseRifleFan's Pirates of the Caribbean gun thread "Heavy metal zizzle conversion" as a mark of the level of modification I'm looking to do here.

By the time I'm done, I'd be surprised if more than 1 part (Most likely the emitter tip) remains from the toy. It will be done in stages though. Stage 1: Filling in the hollows of the teeth. Stage 2: reworking all of the internal mechanics to operate on a single switch. (Big step) I'll most likely use magnets to achieve electrical conductivity in both the open and closed stages so I don't have to strain a wire by making it stretch and strain to connect circuits in both positions. Stage 2.5: create my own green core. Stage 3: leatherize the handle. Stage 4: make the silver bits metal and at the very least use copper leaf on the other parts that should be metal. Stage 5: make a new white grip.

I'd be surprised if there isn't an officially licensed prop sonic before I'm done. It's a fun long term project to give me something to do after work...or drive me crazy. :lol

-Nick
 
I bought a C/O 11's sonic, and deconstructed it. a buddy of mine trimmed the cage out, and the tip off of the slide, with his jeweler's saw. Simiarlary with the cut into the ring of the main body, to allow me to have the sliding button activation. I then weathered it with a metal file (although sandpaper would work too, obviously) and a pair of cuticle scissors (i think thats what they're called, either way, they gouge really nicely) and then gave it a drybrushing of dark brown. Several coats of that, plus sanding, and wearing at it between coats. I filled in the gouges with a green (as an artistic choice) as well as giving all of the remaining green slide a green drybrushing, to tie it all together. Filled in the tip with hot glue, used model glue to seal the bottom button, along with the two pieces of the hilt, and voila. Oh, and I made a brass ring for the green slide out of paper, paint, and hotglue. It's really not that tricky, just a lot of patience, and drybrushing. Fortunately, I enjoy detail work. lols.
 
Vlair said:
It's really not that tricky, just a lot of patience, and drybrushing. Fortunately, I enjoy detail work. lols.
Click to expand...

For his next amazing feat Vlair will be making a 1:1 replica of a Tardis out of sand and elmers glue colored with food dye. ;)

Fantastic job done, dude.
 
Or you could just press the top button while it's extended. :p I just use my pointer finger and hide the exposed switch when I do it.

- - - Updated - - -

okay i posted my comment before reading yours :p
 
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