Chrisisall
Master Member
My inner Lando is SO impressed.
Cracker's 1/144 Finemolds Millennium Falcon Asteroid Field Diorama (3D)
- Thread starter crackerjazz
- Start date
ozzyguanche
Sr Member
No not trying hard at all mate. Achieving hard!
Ozzy
Ozzy
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Thanks, Chisisall, Ozzy 
Practiced on some toothpicks. Carved out those barrell-like parts on either side
of the upper jawbox:
Do you feel any pain when doing this to your Falcon?
Masked off the "milk glass". Used the clear canopy to mask the cockpit.
Mixed up some paint and brought out the airbrush. Basecoat on.
Wow - paint sure brings out the detail....of your mistakes. Have some fixing to do and on with the painting. Wish me luck!
Practiced on some toothpicks. Carved out those barrell-like parts on either side
of the upper jawbox:
Do you feel any pain when doing this to your Falcon?
Masked off the "milk glass". Used the clear canopy to mask the cockpit.
Mixed up some paint and brought out the airbrush. Basecoat on.
Wow - paint sure brings out the detail....of your mistakes. Have some fixing to do and on with the painting. Wish me luck!
Last edited:
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Randy13, thanks!
No updates yet - I want to get the colors right. Tried a shade I mixed but ended up removing it. Right now I'm studying JMChladek's work closely. The reference photos vary so much in shade from light to dark, yellowish and grayish. One thing I noticed is that if I use too light a shade, it's harder to take photos as the color washes out. And the ESB Falcon looks grayer and darker in the movie than how the prop looks so a light-colored Falcon for the dio doesn't seem right - it's driving me bonkers.
No updates yet - I want to get the colors right. Tried a shade I mixed but ended up removing it. Right now I'm studying JMChladek's work closely. The reference photos vary so much in shade from light to dark, yellowish and grayish. One thing I noticed is that if I use too light a shade, it's harder to take photos as the color washes out. And the ESB Falcon looks grayer and darker in the movie than how the prop looks so a light-colored Falcon for the dio doesn't seem right - it's driving me bonkers.
Griffworks
Well-Known Member
Awesome work, CJ! This is going to be most impressive when finished. Hope you enter it in a contest or three and win appropriate recognition!
BTW, you've made me hungry w/the pic of the Falcon and Cheeseburger!
BTW, you've made me hungry w/the pic of the Falcon and Cheeseburger!
JMChladek
Sr Member
As I look at this beastie, I am becoming more tempted to pull out my own 1/144 kit. But I'll probably end up doing it as the Stellar Envoy since I've already got the 1/72 model done up as Solo's shine runner.
This is certainly shaping up to be a nice looking model I must say!
This is certainly shaping up to be a nice looking model I must say!
3d-builder
Sr Member
Just looking back at the last page, and I thought that
was really cool how you used the reference to plot
the blast marks!!:facepalm:thumbsup
was really cool how you used the reference to plot
the blast marks!!:facepalm:thumbsup
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Thanks, guys : ) - hope I do her paintjob justice (ulp!)
I have no doubt..what so ever, that you will do an amazing paint job on this Sir..Your work so far is indeed amazing!:thumbsup
I personally can't get enough of these Millennium Falcon Threads!!
ozzyguanche
Sr Member
Long live the falcon Threads!!!!!!!!! LOL.
Looking forward to seeing the paint job Crack"s!!
Just a side note: JMChladek, I would be very careful of whom you offer to " pull out my own 1/144 kit". I would only speek those works here were friends understand you. LOL
I am off line for a few weeks, catch ya then.
Ozzy
Looking forward to seeing the paint job Crack"s!!
Just a side note: JMChladek, I would be very careful of whom you offer to " pull out my own 1/144 kit". I would only speek those works here were friends understand you. LOL
I am off line for a few weeks, catch ya then.
Ozzy
JMChladek
Sr Member
:rolleyes :lol :facepalm
I look at the Falcon and I now think of that line from "Land Down Under" by Men at Work
Traveling in a fried out combi...
Perfect description for the Falcon I would say.
I am working on model similar to this with lights an asteroid base. I have started work but would love some feedback on anyone else that has attempted it.
Here is a post i created on another site, just going to copy paste here if that is okay?
Working on the base of my model display, a large asteroid with a small base to be inserted.
I am using this actual asteroid photo as a guide.
Google Image Result for http://i.space.com/images/i/5606/i02/asteroid-sizes-100831-02.jpg%3F1292271175
Asteroids, comets and moonlets visited by spacecraft | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
This is the concept art of the actual in game asteroid:
Google Image Result for http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20070909143421/homeworld/images/f/f9/Hw2_0403-j.jpg
And here is my first pass and carving and sanding:
Asteroid 1st try - YouTube
Items I used:
Hot Wire Foam Factory Crafter kit.
120 and 220 grit sand paper sponge.
What I think:
It still does not look natural. There are several lines and small patches that I have not been able to smooth out. The asteroid is still about 20% too big so I have some working space to salvage.
What I learned:
1. make the rock shape first, do not try too much detail on first cutting pass. This makes sanding foam very difficult. At least with the tools I am using. If someone knows a better way I am all ears!
2. Add larger craters slowly and work on each one carefully. Do not rush.
3. Add the small details like small craters, some pot mocks, etc last after surface is sanded where you want.
Materials I am going to experiment with for the coating:
Preface:
I have bought and am going to experiment with these materials on small pieces of foam to see which one of I will use for my coat. My goal is to produce an asteroid that looks similar to the real picture above. To make it feel and look professional/authentic* up close. Since this is a very large asteroid it will be more rock like than gritty as planet/moon surface would be. But I also want to keep the weight down to around 10-15 pounds. The surface needs to be sand-able, able to prime and paint.
1. MagicSculpt. So far on a test piece I can tell this still, although very cool, is going to be heavy! I am not very experienced with sculpting but I am having problems getting a smooth surface because the material is sticky and the viscosity is a bit thick.
I am wondering is MagicSmooth might work but I can find no example pictures or photos online.
2. PolyFilla cellulose filler. As seen by this post : http://www.therpf.com/f11/crackers-1-144-finemolds-millennium-falcon-asteroid-137585/index2.html
I may also try the grout + acrylic polymer mixture.
I think this guys asteroids look great but I want mine to be a bit more rock like since these people decided it was worthy enough to build a star base in.
3. I just ordered some Styroplast and am going to try that as well. I liked that it may hide much of the raw foam detail but the viscosity is low enough to pick up the ridge detail I sand into the foam. It also looks like I can sand, patch, and reapply this material to get it to the smoothness and desired look without a super thick coat. But i have not worked with it yet so we shall see. here is a short video of it: TerranScapes - Styroplast Review - Hot Wire Foam Factory - YouTube
Question I have for the audience:
1. Anybody worked with the items above and can tell me based on what I have stated as my desired end product which you would recommend and why?
2. If I want to install a small styrene base with lights should I coat the exterior first and then cut/machine out the inside or just cut this puppy in half do all the work I need and then glue it back together and sand the seems before coating?
3. Anyone worked with lights know if power source and lights are nested int he foam will I be creating a fire hazard?
4. When trying to create craters and sand I find even the 220 grit sponge tends to rip out foam balls and create line edges. Any technique that would work better to produce smooth round craters in the foam?
-Billy
Here is a post i created on another site, just going to copy paste here if that is okay?
Working on the base of my model display, a large asteroid with a small base to be inserted.
I am using this actual asteroid photo as a guide.
Google Image Result for http://i.space.com/images/i/5606/i02/asteroid-sizes-100831-02.jpg%3F1292271175
Asteroids, comets and moonlets visited by spacecraft | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
This is the concept art of the actual in game asteroid:
Google Image Result for http://images1.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20070909143421/homeworld/images/f/f9/Hw2_0403-j.jpg
And here is my first pass and carving and sanding:
Asteroid 1st try - YouTube
Items I used:
Hot Wire Foam Factory Crafter kit.
120 and 220 grit sand paper sponge.
What I think:
It still does not look natural. There are several lines and small patches that I have not been able to smooth out. The asteroid is still about 20% too big so I have some working space to salvage.
What I learned:
1. make the rock shape first, do not try too much detail on first cutting pass. This makes sanding foam very difficult. At least with the tools I am using. If someone knows a better way I am all ears!
2. Add larger craters slowly and work on each one carefully. Do not rush.
3. Add the small details like small craters, some pot mocks, etc last after surface is sanded where you want.
Materials I am going to experiment with for the coating:
Preface:
I have bought and am going to experiment with these materials on small pieces of foam to see which one of I will use for my coat. My goal is to produce an asteroid that looks similar to the real picture above. To make it feel and look professional/authentic* up close. Since this is a very large asteroid it will be more rock like than gritty as planet/moon surface would be. But I also want to keep the weight down to around 10-15 pounds. The surface needs to be sand-able, able to prime and paint.
1. MagicSculpt. So far on a test piece I can tell this still, although very cool, is going to be heavy! I am not very experienced with sculpting but I am having problems getting a smooth surface because the material is sticky and the viscosity is a bit thick.
I am wondering is MagicSmooth might work but I can find no example pictures or photos online.
2. PolyFilla cellulose filler. As seen by this post : http://www.therpf.com/f11/crackers-1-144-finemolds-millennium-falcon-asteroid-137585/index2.html
I may also try the grout + acrylic polymer mixture.
I think this guys asteroids look great but I want mine to be a bit more rock like since these people decided it was worthy enough to build a star base in.
3. I just ordered some Styroplast and am going to try that as well. I liked that it may hide much of the raw foam detail but the viscosity is low enough to pick up the ridge detail I sand into the foam. It also looks like I can sand, patch, and reapply this material to get it to the smoothness and desired look without a super thick coat. But i have not worked with it yet so we shall see. here is a short video of it: TerranScapes - Styroplast Review - Hot Wire Foam Factory - YouTube
Question I have for the audience:
1. Anybody worked with the items above and can tell me based on what I have stated as my desired end product which you would recommend and why?
2. If I want to install a small styrene base with lights should I coat the exterior first and then cut/machine out the inside or just cut this puppy in half do all the work I need and then glue it back together and sand the seems before coating?
3. Anyone worked with lights know if power source and lights are nested int he foam will I be creating a fire hazard?
4. When trying to create craters and sand I find even the 220 grit sponge tends to rip out foam balls and create line edges. Any technique that would work better to produce smooth round craters in the foam?
-Billy
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Hi guys, I feel ashamed posting an update on this thread. It's a necro-post of sorts but I guess
we builder's operate on dog years where 1 dog year = 7 human years. We think we're building
quickly but in fact so many years have passed.
Anyway - I'm seeing so many inspiring Falcon threads picking up and I feel left behind. I'll start
again by experimenting on how to make better-looking asteroids. For some reason asteroid
pockmarks don't pop up without nice ridges. I rolled up some apoxie worms to apply on a new
styrofoam asteroid I carved up with the knife.
Applied the worms around the edges of the pockmarks.
I think I better apply the Polyfilla first before doing this so the ridge details don't get hidden under
the the Polyfilla coat. I'll experiment on that tomorrow. Time to hit the sack for now.
we builder's operate on dog years where 1 dog year = 7 human years. We think we're building
quickly but in fact so many years have passed.
Anyway - I'm seeing so many inspiring Falcon threads picking up and I feel left behind. I'll start
again by experimenting on how to make better-looking asteroids. For some reason asteroid
pockmarks don't pop up without nice ridges. I rolled up some apoxie worms to apply on a new
styrofoam asteroid I carved up with the knife.
Applied the worms around the edges of the pockmarks.
I think I better apply the Polyfilla first before doing this so the ridge details don't get hidden under
the the Polyfilla coat. I'll experiment on that tomorrow. Time to hit the sack for now.
LMFAOSchwarz
Sr Member
Awesome work on your customization, c.j., you're so much better than you realize!:thumbsup
Between your asteroids and your Cetacean sea-scape, maybe you should start a scratch built rocks thread!:cool
Between your asteroids and your Cetacean sea-scape, maybe you should start a scratch built rocks thread!:cool
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Thanks, guys! I'm glad you liked the asteroid. Fett_Ish, you can get some styrofoam blocks from Michaels. The LePage Polyfilla I got from the hardware. Recently I tried a product called Foam Coat but discovered it had bigger grains. I still sand the Polyfilla a bit when it dries to make it smoother but it works well for me.
After Polyfilla had dried, I sanded lightly. After getting rid of the dust with the
vacuum cleaner she's ready for painting with base coat gray.
Detailing some areas with other gray shades.
Further detailing with white.
I'm glad you liked the asteroid. Fett_Ish, you can get some styrofoam blocks from Michaels. The LePage Polyfilla I got from the hardware. Recently I tried a product called Foam Coat but discovered it had bigger grains. I still sand the Polyfilla a bit when it dries to make it smoother but it works well for me.
After Polyfilla had dried, I sanded lightly. After getting rid of the dust with the
vacuum cleaner she's ready for painting with base coat gray.
Detailing some areas with other gray shades.
Further detailing with white.
crackerjazz
Sr Member
Thanks, Scratchy! I'm glad you liked the asteroid. I'll probably make a few and choose which
ones I really like. Sanded before I carve out the pits and craters. I found out it's easier to
make the craters first before the Polyfilla coat as the apoxie sculpt sticks better that way.
I'm glad you liked the asteroid. I'll probably make a few and choose which ones I really like. Sanded before I carve out the pits and craters. I found out it's easier to
make the craters first before the Polyfilla coat as the apoxie sculpt sticks better that way.
