With the recent acquisition of a correct vintage Armitage Shanks handwheel, I've disassemble my ANH OWK saber replica, and took some pictures as it was re-assembled. I was thinking that perhaps there might be some interest in what holds my assemblage of parts together.
The parts look like this:
The sticking point with using a single threaded rod through all the components is that the inner diameter of the No.3 Mk.1 fits well on 3/8" rod (or tube), however the inside diameter of the ANM2 bearing/booster is less than 3/8". Since drilling out a vintage MG part would ruin it, that for me was not an option.
My Derwent interconnector was attached to my No.3 Mk.1 as shown here:
Emitter
This time, before assembling, I tapped the inside of the 3/8" dia lamp tubing to 5/16-18.
I screwed in a 5/16-18 threaded rod until it was snug and then tightened a jam nut against the tubing to keep the rod from coming loose. Note that a jam nut is narrower than a standard nut and they're available at most hardware stores. Also note that the tubing was later cut so that it would only extended about 3/8" past the end of the No.3. (Lots of trial and error here
) Two more nuts were also placed on the threaded rod as can be seen here:
The nut on the right will position the Graflex clamp. The middle nut will jam against it to hold it in place.
I then took what's known in the lamp making trade as a 1-3/8" turned solid brass check ring or seating ring and, using a file, put two notches in the lip to match the tabs inside the lever end of the clamp.
I found the 1-3/8" seating ring (which is actually 1.5" OD) at an old hardware store, but they also can be found at a lamp supply house or online:
Seating ring
Next I slid the clamp on (and off several times) and adjusted the "right" nut until the edge of the clamp was at about the 10th groove in of the No.3. Then I jammed the "middle" nut against it to hold it in place.
The transistors and washers (spacers) were hot melt glued on, and the Exactra calculator bubbles were added to the clamp previously. See:
Removing and modifying an Exactra 20 bubble strip
Next I enlarged the 1/8" hole of a conical nylon bumper to 5/16" using a rat tail file, a reamer, and several drill bits. These bumpers are used as floor protectors on the legs of furniture, or on the bottom of electronic enclosures. I then slid the booster/bearing onto the threaded rod. Actually, at this point, I also screwed on the AS handwheel and marked the threaded rod at about 3/16" past the square hole, removed the handwheel, booster/bearing, and clamp and cut the 5/16" rod to length at the mark. The clamp/seating ring, the booster/bearing, and then the nylon bumper were placed on the rod. Another jam nut was then tighten against the bumper, forcing the "ring of holes" booster against the seating ring inside the clamp, thus holding everything together.
The AS handwheel then slides onto the 5/16" threaded rod (like it was made for it) , one more jam nut is gently snugged against the handwheel, and then the cap is pushed on.
The D-ring was added as before. See:
Drilling an AS handwheel and adding a D-ring
I'm partial to the Tunisia saber that's less weathered, with two washers, and IIRC the cubes opposite that of the mechanismo picture.
Since the length of the different saber parts might vary, I'm kind of reluctant to give exact tubing and rod lengths, but the threaded tubing was 6-3/8", and the 5/16" threaded rod extended 4” past the end of the tubing (that’s NOT including what was threaded into the tubing). I also tried a rubber O-ring in place of the rubber washer to hold the emitter, but it didn't work well. Perhaps 3 metal washers and two O-rings might work. I also used a small amount of easily removable rubber cement to hold the cap more securely to the AS handwheel.
A special thanks to my UK friends Marcus, and Howard!
ATL Kenobi
The parts look like this:
The sticking point with using a single threaded rod through all the components is that the inner diameter of the No.3 Mk.1 fits well on 3/8" rod (or tube), however the inside diameter of the ANM2 bearing/booster is less than 3/8". Since drilling out a vintage MG part would ruin it, that for me was not an option.
My Derwent interconnector was attached to my No.3 Mk.1 as shown here:
Emitter
This time, before assembling, I tapped the inside of the 3/8" dia lamp tubing to 5/16-18.
I screwed in a 5/16-18 threaded rod until it was snug and then tightened a jam nut against the tubing to keep the rod from coming loose. Note that a jam nut is narrower than a standard nut and they're available at most hardware stores. Also note that the tubing was later cut so that it would only extended about 3/8" past the end of the No.3. (Lots of trial and error here
) Two more nuts were also placed on the threaded rod as can be seen here:The nut on the right will position the Graflex clamp. The middle nut will jam against it to hold it in place.
I then took what's known in the lamp making trade as a 1-3/8" turned solid brass check ring or seating ring and, using a file, put two notches in the lip to match the tabs inside the lever end of the clamp.
I found the 1-3/8" seating ring (which is actually 1.5" OD) at an old hardware store, but they also can be found at a lamp supply house or online:
Seating ring
Next I slid the clamp on (and off several times) and adjusted the "right" nut until the edge of the clamp was at about the 10th groove in of the No.3. Then I jammed the "middle" nut against it to hold it in place.
The transistors and washers (spacers) were hot melt glued on, and the Exactra calculator bubbles were added to the clamp previously. See:
Removing and modifying an Exactra 20 bubble strip
Next I enlarged the 1/8" hole of a conical nylon bumper to 5/16" using a rat tail file, a reamer, and several drill bits. These bumpers are used as floor protectors on the legs of furniture, or on the bottom of electronic enclosures. I then slid the booster/bearing onto the threaded rod. Actually, at this point, I also screwed on the AS handwheel and marked the threaded rod at about 3/16" past the square hole, removed the handwheel, booster/bearing, and clamp and cut the 5/16" rod to length at the mark. The clamp/seating ring, the booster/bearing, and then the nylon bumper were placed on the rod. Another jam nut was then tighten against the bumper, forcing the "ring of holes" booster against the seating ring inside the clamp, thus holding everything together.
The AS handwheel then slides onto the 5/16" threaded rod (like it was made for it)
, one more jam nut is gently snugged against the handwheel, and then the cap is pushed on.The D-ring was added as before. See:
Drilling an AS handwheel and adding a D-ring
I'm partial to the Tunisia saber that's less weathered, with two washers, and IIRC the cubes opposite that of the mechanismo picture.
Since the length of the different saber parts might vary, I'm kind of reluctant to give exact tubing and rod lengths, but the threaded tubing was 6-3/8", and the 5/16" threaded rod extended 4” past the end of the tubing (that’s NOT including what was threaded into the tubing). I also tried a rubber O-ring in place of the rubber washer to hold the emitter, but it didn't work well. Perhaps 3 metal washers and two O-rings might work. I also used a small amount of easily removable rubber cement to hold the cap more securely to the AS handwheel.
A special thanks to my UK friends Marcus, and Howard!
ATL Kenobi
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