Constructing an ANH OWK using original parts

I was recently asked to revisit my emitter attaching scheme from a couple of years ago:

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For explanation, I'm showing Russ's MK#3 and two-part steel emitter. The other parts shown are hardware items found at an ACE hardware but might be found at a Home Depot or Lowe's. There's a 3/4" threaded tube which is either from lamp repair (alternate) or plumbing. There are two rubber gaskets shown. I prefer the lower one (or here). The upper one shown is more common which is also from plumbing - it's a toilet bowl gasket :) but the center hole needs to be enlarged slightly.

Next shown are two steel washers. The ones shown are cad plated but zinc would probably look better. They are 3/8" ID and 1.0" OD.

A small round brass lamp nut is shown. I found them at ACE, but this nickel plated one, or round one may look better.


The windvane and emitter outer ring are not shown for clarity but have to be in place before tightning the nut.
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Start by threading the tube into the end of the MK#3 so that about 3/8" is left protruding. Sandwich the gasket between the two washers and loosely install the nut.

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Slip the inner ring over the gasket/washers and tighten the nut with some long-nose pliers (it doesn't have to be tightened much).

It should look like this:
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For my original parts saber, I used the same basic technique, but used a longer tube and tighten a hex nut on the other end of the MK#3.
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ATL
 
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Thank you for all the info!

I'm working on a "hardware" ANH saber so I thought there was something else involved other than a threaded rod and stuff. This is an amazing saber though, great job finding the lamp parts!

I..honestly, since I don't have a grenade, have one of these http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00bsoTRYrGFEqf/Reduce-Copper-Coupling-AV8004-.jpg

taped up with electrical tape that fits snugly, and the pipe it's on is surrounded by one of these with a lip around them

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Thank you! I've got this thread bookmarked as reference for my build... whenever I get around to it. LOL
 
This is a wicked build thread.
The only thing I think I ended up doing differently was that I used an M6 threaded rod which went all the way through.
 
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