Limited Run Cloud city blaster - Relby K23 - aluminium conversion kits! NOW LIVE!

[LewisD]

Not having much luck with mine. A lot of work and very poor results.

Nothing against Eethan. His parts are awesome. Basically perfect. Plug N play.

I am sure more talented prop builder could make this easier.

It seemed a very simple prop.

Touching the finish will ruin it so I am not sure how to ship it. On the other hand after a week of sanding, filling, repeating it still has lots of flaws so maybe the new owner can strip it and start over.

I have Ryan's amazing set of Greeblies.

I also have a cast of the calculator button from another member. Waste of time and money though. The CA lettering is so thin it disappears with paint so it's a red square you can scratch easy. Nothing against the member. It was a perfect cast.

I don't have any of the missing greeblies I posted above except I did find a set of Vintage Pan AM Coffee Stir sticks for the one Greeblie pieces.

If anyone wants it I will sell it at cost. Maybe even less. Just want it gone.

ONE TIP:

DO NOT paint the barrel on the actual Supergun. The one you will slip Eethan's parts over. Eethan is so precise that the "gear rings" things will not go one easily if its painted. I have one currently stuck in the middle of the barrel.

Trigger has a spring installed so it works.

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James, I think it looks great! Don’t be too hard on yourself. Sometimes it helps to just put it aside and forget about it for awhile, then approach it again once the remaining greeblies are identified.

 

[thd9791]

Not having much luck with mine. A lot of work and very poor results.

Nothing against Eethan. His parts are awesome. Basically perfect. Plug N play.

I am sure more talented prop builder could make this easier.

It seemed a very simple prop.

Touching the finish will ruin it so I am not sure how to ship it. On the other hand after a week of sanding, filling, repeating it still has lots of flaws so maybe the new owner can strip it and start over.

I have Ryan's amazing set of Greeblies.

I also have a cast of the calculator button from another member. Waste of time and money though. The CA lettering is so thin it disappears with paint so it's a red square you can scratch easy. Nothing against the member. It was a perfect cast.

I don't have any of the missing greeblies I posted above except I did find a set of Vintage Pan AM Coffee Stir sticks for the one Greeblie pieces.

If anyone wants it I will sell it at cost. Maybe even less. Just want it gone.

ONE TIP:

DO NOT paint the barrel on the actual Supergun. The one you will slip Eethan's parts over. Eethan is so precise that the "gear rings" things will not go one easily if its painted. I have one currently stuck in the middle of the barrel.

Trigger has a spring installed so it works.

View attachment 1632974


View attachment 1632976

Yeah I’m really sorry. I’ve had about 10 projects crash and burn so far in this hobby and it feels terrible.

Vintage parts can be frustratingly non-uniform and can definitely throw a project into chaos.

The calculator button is mine and I’m really sorry you lost detail. The prop is only able to be seen in high res propstore photos and other casts out there actually lost the calculator button detail. So you have one that is accurate to many props that were made, if that helps. That being said, message me your address and I’ll send you another or some freebies or something

 

[Jamesfett]

Yeah I’m really sorry. I’ve had about 10 projects crash and burn so far in this hobby and it feels terrible.

Vintage parts can be frustratingly non-uniform and can definitely throw a project into chaos.

The calculator button is mine and I’m really sorry you lost detail. The prop is only able to be seen in high res propstore photos and other casts out there actually lost the calculator button detail. So you have one that is accurate to many props that were made, if that helps. That being said, message me your address and I’ll send you another or some freebies or something

I appreciate that. It's not at all your fault. Your casting was perfect. It just is what it is.

I am doing what was suggested and setting it aside for a while.

The pics are actually really bad. It looks much better than it shows but after all the work it should look better.

The other problem is the paint. The newest Rustoleum does look like metal. The finish in person looks great, minus my lack of prep skills.

The problem is if it is touched it's ruined. I had this problem before with this and even after weeks, it could not be handled. I was hoping the newer paint would illiminate that.

I don't know how to prevent that. Gloss coat? Never have been able to gloss coat anything successfully.

Thanks all.

Tom

 

[thd9791]

I found weird results too. The plastic speargun reacted well with the rustoleum 2x aluminum spray cans. Also Tamiya TS lacquer loves plastic. The prequels used acrylic lacquer, automotive, however I haven’t been able to get it to stick. Maybe it needs a primer..

 

[eethan]

What is the width/length/specs of the spring you used? Thanks!

Hey David, just measured my spring, it's 25mm long (1") and 8mm wide. that is already quite a strong/medium size sprint, there is quite some room in there, which is cool

 

[eethan]

I found weird results too. The plastic speargun reacted well with the rustoleum 2x aluminum spray cans. Also Tamiya TS lacquer loves plastic. The prequels used acrylic lacquer, automotive, however I haven’t been able to get it to stick. Maybe it needs a primer..

you guys are started to worry me about painting that guy! ainting is never my favorite part!
I was planning to use Tamiya paint though, so this makes me feel better already
cheers guys, I hope to see many cool finished blasters soon! mine will probably take a while with all the other stuff to do in priority!

 

[Jamesfett]

Anyone in the US know of a metal platers? Can plating stick to plastic and Tamiya putty?

Eethan don't paint until we come up with a solution. It's not my favorite part either, and I have some major stripping to do.

 

[LewisD]

Anyone in the US know of a metal platers? Can plating stick to plastic and Tamiya putty?

Eethan don't paint until we come up with a solution. It's not my favorite part either, and I have some major stripping to do.

You should try spraying universal bonding primer before spraying the rustoleum. The Rustoleum may have primer included, but the bonding primer is better for some plastics.

 

[LewisD]

Anyone in the US know of a metal platers? Can plating stick to plastic and Tamiya putty?

Eethan don't paint until we come up with a solution. It's not my favorite part either, and I have some major stripping to do.

 

[Ryan Clinton]

Always use primer first. Especially on metals/aluminum.

 

[Jamesfett]

Exactly what I used for Primer.

I don't think it's the paint. It's me.

To try and fill in a simple hole or mark seems to take four or five tries. Sand, fill, wait, wet sand, fill, wait, and repeat. Never seems to come out nice.

 

[Ryan Clinton]

Window hardware? Surprising, but interesting! To me, all those round details on it make me think it's an injected plastic part.

Sorry to hear you are having a hard time with the paint jamesfett. Just to answer quickly on the parts that are so precise they might get stuck, it's not a choice on my end, i explained in my how to put together text that the barrels seem to have variations in size and that i can't predict that I have basically done a hole as large as i could with the materials i was using but there is always the possibility that someone will have a barrel that is slightly too large for the parts.
I Hope in your case, you can just strip your paint and slide the part you have done a great job so far. I haven't had the Time to even get started on the filling and painting on mine!
Cheers

I have some metal parts that also have injection mold markings on them. What stands out to me the most is the "nub" on the end it stands what looks like a mm off the face of it. Here's a metal piece with injection molding marks

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

View attachment 1633361

Looks like a pivotal point

 

[Jamesfett]

Okay I did not use "bonding primer". I used Filler Primer. Same can, so I mistook it.

I am gonna try to salvage the existing paint job first. If that is unsuccessful I will strip it and try the binding primer.

I really want it to look new as Cloud City was much cleaner than the rest of our beloved "Used Universe."

Feeling better but taking some time away from it.

I really worked hard on the grip as well, going for a nice slate instead of black. Taping that grip off is a challenge but it came out great................ Then it immediately started rubbing off on the texture of the grip.

 

[thd9791]

Wow look at that innocent metal piece with injection marks. I’m not jealous at all



I have had success using automotive primer (rustoleum) after any necessary putty and wet sanding up to 800 with some water. Looks like glass afterwards. I got this tip from Jedifather

 

[eethan]

bumping this, still have quite a few kits available on my website:

Supergreen props - Handcrafted collectibles

Supergreen props, high quality movie inspired props for the collectors

supergreenprops.com

 

[thd9791]

Amazing kit. Talented machinist.

I would have updated my project sooner, but I lost the baggie with my triggers, screws, etc. from the scuba gun lol I've been looking for months

 

[eethan]

3 kits left! grab them while they're still available, I'm not planning to do more of those!

 

[eethan]

ONE LAST KIT!
grab it while it's still available!