CCX remodeling ! into X-WING RED2

It does look great!But you've forgot one thing.Please look at the thickness:)

By the way,as you know the rear plate on the RED 2 has flaws ,but the RED 3 doesn't have them any at all.It's very strange.I thought the original pattern was used on the RED 3 ,but it has air bubbles,so it's not the original.Maybe the mold had been lost and had been made one more.
 
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Wow, that looks beautiful atom! I'm really enjoying following your progress.

You can definitely make a good mold of that pattern, even better than the ILM guys did. You will probably want to start with a thin brush layer of your RTV first, to make sure it gets in between all of the parts. Then you can pour a thicker layer over that first coat and it will solidify into a single mold.

Hi beaz!:)
Thank you teaching me your casting method.
I will do it as you say!
I will make mold today, so I cast it next weekend.
Anyway, thank you very much.:thumbsup
 
It does look great!But you've forgot one thing.Please look at the thickness:)

By the way,as you know the rear plate on the RED 2 has flaws ,but the RED 3 doesn't have them any at all.It's very strange.I thought the original pattern was used on the RED 3 ,but it has air bubbles,so it's not the original.Maybe the mold had been lost and had been made one more.

Hi! kh39!
I did not notice it at all!:cry
Thank you!
I must make modifications asap. lol
There are bubbles as you say in the rear plate of RED3. But there are not flaws. Why? :confused
BTW, I think there is a possibility it may be the same pattern when I compare the angle of tiny round M8 parts.
Because they look identical.:wacko
 
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Hi! everyone!:)

This is result of today.
To evade making bubbles, I cast main parts and aurora M8 carrier parts, bandai hummel parts, monogram panzer parts one by one.
:thumbsup

Thank you! beaz!
I cast them like your comment.
I was not able to completely avoid bubbles, but was satisfied with a result.
 
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Excellent idea to avoid flaws in your mold, atom. And beautiful castings too!

Thank you. beaz.:)
I thought you could not see flaws in the attached image. But, in fact, each rear plate has a few flaws. Of course some flaws will be able to mend easily. Because there were many flaws in the rear plate of real RED2, I decided not to mind it too much.

Next weekend, I wanna make "t-shape laser cannon mount parts". Sorry, I do not know what do I call that parts correctly . "t-shape laser cannon mount parts " of CCX is obviously different shape from real prop. Does anyone know what the donor part is? I read somewhere in RPF it's matilda's parts. Is that correct? :confused
 
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Next weekend, I wanna make "t-shape laser cannon mount parts". Sorry, I do not know what do I call that parts correctly . "t-shape laser cannon mount parts " of CCX is obviously different shape from real prop. Do someone knows the donor parts of it? I read somewhere in RPF it's matilda's parts. Is that correct? :confused

I believe that is probably a kit part used for the rail on the cannon mount plate castings, but I'm not sure anyone has found the correct kit. I'm pretty sure it's not the Matilda.

Many people use Plastruct "T" rod instead and then dremel the rounded cutouts.
 
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I believe that is probably a kit part used for the rail on the cannon mount plate castings, but I'm not sure anyone has found the correct kit. I'm pretty sure it's not the Matilda.

Many people get used Plastruct "T" rod instead and then dremel the rounded cutouts.


beaz, Thank you for useful comment always.:)

I do agree with you. I inspected parts of Matilda, but they were different.:thumbsup

When I scratched wings several years ago, I made t-shape parts by Plastruct "T" rod which I purchased for Y-wing. However, I used CCX as a reference and not cut it rounded line. There were few reference images, therefore I did not notice the difference in those days.
But recently I could confirm it was cut rounded line by hi-res pics.
So I decided I would cut Plastruct "T" rod rounded line this time.

It is good news. I made a bid for a first edition of BANDAI 1/15 Hummel by an auction in Japan recently. In fact, I did not have a first edition of Hummel. First edition's mold color is glay not sand yellow.
 
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Hey atom sorry I have not responded to your PM yet.

I wanted to pop in here and say big thanks for spotting that donor bolt that fills the hole in the Hummel part. When you're cutting expensive model parts you don't want to miss anything and I would have definitely missed that. I wouldn't worry about recreating the airbubbles on the original, a few will do fine and those plates of yours look great.

Also as Kevin has already mentioned it is believed that the cannon mount is a found kit part but the T shape material works just as well. Julien had mentioned in another thread that he could spot a mold line down the center. It was also determined the cutouts were not the same size so that the raised part in the middle is not truly centered. All tells this could be a section of a larger kit part and please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Hey atom sorry I have not responded to your PM yet.

I wanted to pop in here and say big thanks for spotting that donor bolt that fills the hole in the Hummel part. When you're cutting expensive model parts you don't want to miss anything and I would have definitely missed that. I wouldn't worry about recreating the airbubbles on the original, a few will do fine and those plates of yours look great.

Also as Kevin has already mentioned it is believed that the cannon mount is a found kit part but the T shape material works just as well. Julien had mentioned in another thread that he could spot a mold line down the center. It was also determined the cutouts were not the same size so that the raised part in the middle is not truly centered. All tells this could be a section of a larger kit part and please correct me if I'm wrong.

Hi!:)
Nighteyes! Long time no see. lol
Thank you for reply.

>I wanted to pop in here and say big thanks for spotting that donor bolt that fills the hole in the Hummel part.

I do not know whether I am right or not because this is my original interpretation, so to speak. But I think it is certain that a hole is filled with some kind of part.
Anyway, making of rear plate was pleasant experience. Please try it .
I purchased a first edition of Hummel again after all. :thumbsup
Because the color of the mold is gray, the first edition is different in an impression.

After looking at all the parts of Hummel, I did interesting discovery.:ninja
This armor plate very closely resembles a cover for support rod of RED3.
I think it must be this part, but what do you think?
Nighteyes? beaz?
 
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Wonderful!
To be honest,I'm dissapointed myself.:lolI started the reserch from hummel just because the color was similar to the Mr.Edlund's pyro master,but the part I was looking at was not correct.Therefore I started looking at german vehicles.But you've found the part from the humel!
Congratulation,Atom!:)
 
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Wow great find atom. I just picked up the pyro to look for rivets and bam there they are. Also, it's been in that pyro master pattern photo this whole time hiding in plain site. And we know that the kit was tan.

Work your magic on the cockpit console parts atom!
 
Hi! Everyone! :)
I am very honored to be able to help all of you.:thumbsup
I thought that it was a model kit part because the sequence of the rivet was equal since I watched Pyro master image of Mr. Edlund. Of course color of part was a hint, too.
Scott, I think a support rod cover on the bottom fuselage does not seem to be Hummel part.

BTW, this is the result of today.
I made a t-shape part from Plastruct t-rod. I did not use the dremel and made it by hand with various tools. please look.
I am satisfied with the result.

Work your magic on the cockpit console parts atom!

Nighteyes
Sorry, I have decided to use ccx cockpit with no modification in this build. Therefore I have not done any research about it yet.:ninja
 
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Hi!:)
This is the result of today.
I cast the t-shape part and the Hummel part of the tip of laser cannon.
I put the Hummel part on the tip of the electric screwdriver and made tapered side wall by a design knife. Because this part of CCX was not used the part of Hummel, the shape was clearly different.
 
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