Building X-Wing 1/24 : Help!!
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Miniaturizer Ray
Well-Known Member
This is my guesstimation for the Red 5 miniature. At 72 pixels/inch, it's full size. You can either use the ruler tool in Photoshop if you have it, or print it out and measure it the old fashioned way.
Flintlock
Sr Member
This is my guesstimation for the Red 5 miniature. At 72 pixels/inch, it's full size. You can either use the ruler tool in Photoshop if you have it, or print it out and measure it the old fashioned way.
WOW! Thanks!
Do you mind sharing the diameters? I just cut a bunch of brass tube, and it looks off. I'm thinking I may be off by a size or two.
Flintlock
Sr Member
As far as I knew, it was Butyrate Tubing from Plastruct - 3/4" and 5/8" for the main gun,and 7/8" for the ring around the heatsinks. Forward of the heatsinks, the tubing is brass. I will have to double check on the diameters, but the first tube will fit inside the heatsinks, and you just step down sizes from there, since they are telescoping.
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Newbie Doobie
Well-Known Member
This is my guesstimation for the Red 5 miniature. At 72 pixels/inch, it's full size. You can either use the ruler tool in Photoshop if you have it, or print it out and measure it the old fashioned way.
I love the photoshop you did on this Ray! The subtle shading looks MUCH better,and more three dimensional than just a flat drawing.
Cool diagram, looks more like an AO render than a PS image.
Back to topic, any ideas on why butyrate tubing? Material and composite choices are usually interesting.
Last, has anyone worked, recently, on lighting up their cannon tips? I'm still a way off from doing the cannons, but I think I'd like to add that as well.
Back to topic, any ideas on why butyrate tubing? Material and composite choices are usually interesting.
Last, has anyone worked, recently, on lighting up their cannon tips? I'm still a way off from doing the cannons, but I think I'd like to add that as well.
This is my guesstimation for the Red 5 miniature. At 72 pixels/inch, it's full size. You can either use the ruler tool in Photoshop if you have it, or print it out and measure it the old fashioned way.
Thank you for that! I'm wanting to scratch an X Wing (well, some of it anyway) for the beautiful aluminum armature Jason made, and that will come in handy.
Newbie Doobie
Well-Known Member
Are you planning on using fiberoptics for this? I don't see why not. It should work,as long as you allow enough length for them to run all the way through the wings into the fuselage,and up to the LED. Just drill a small hole through the cannon,and the mount for it into the wing,then run a small channel through the length of the wing for it. This will allow for you to use this without the fiberoptic wire being seen. Are you scratch building the wings,or using a resin kit?
MonsieurTox
Master Member
On the ILM models, the bulbs which light the FO are in the body of the cannon. I think that's the best way to not lose light because if you let them going through the wings and fuselage they will have too much high curvatures which is always bad for light...
Newbie Doobie
Well-Known Member
I understand! Anyway,this should be interesting to see! Thanks Julien!
Another way for lighting fiber optic and not loosing a lot of light due to curvature is to use a laser diode. I'm no X-Wing, expert but what color were the lights?
I plan on useing a green laser pointer diode to light all four canon tips. Green lasers are now plentiful on ebay and can be had for a few dollars. I have several and have broken them down to the diode and battery. I have also done FO tests as well. While you don't get the visible green beam when using FO you do get an insanely bright point of light. Just a thought.
Of course when working with any type of laser use extreme caution!
I plan on useing a green laser pointer diode to light all four canon tips. Green lasers are now plentiful on ebay and can be had for a few dollars. I have several and have broken them down to the diode and battery. I have also done FO tests as well. While you don't get the visible green beam when using FO you do get an insanely bright point of light. Just a thought.
Of course when working with any type of laser use extreme caution!
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Numerous pages of this thread were lost in at least one of the server moves over the years.
Thanks to someone posting an archive link, the original thread can be found here:
http://web.archive.org/web/20011122...udioscalemodeling.showMessage?topicID=2.topic
Anyone up to the task of cutting and pasting all of the missing posts?
Thanks to someone posting an archive link, the original thread can be found here:
http://web.archive.org/web/20011122...udioscalemodeling.showMessage?topicID=2.topic
Anyone up to the task of cutting and pasting all of the missing posts?
Wow, where has the time gone?
My posts on the first page (now broken by the looks of it) were links to the Bill George X-Wing on the Starship Modeler site.
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/gallery/bg_xwing.htm
edit: added the original link
My posts on the first page (now broken by the looks of it) were links to the Bill George X-Wing on the Starship Modeler site.
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/gallery/bg_xwing.htm
edit: added the original link
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Oh gods yes. I'd already been rereading what is left here, just last night. My old drawings got mentioned, I hate to think anyone might have built off them. Cringe!!!
Beaz, have checked; FWIW here's what I've got that may be useful for the period you're looking for:
40 (20 Aug 2000 to 6 Sept 2000) - pic-lite. Probably saved after many links had died.
41 (8 Oct 2000 to 12 Dec 2000) - some pics OK. Different format/theme.
09 (7 Oct 2000 - 21 Jan 2002) - different series/theme; more posts per page hence different numbering. Some pics, some broken links.
Cheers,
Martyn
-... . .- --..
Sr Member
Hey Martyn,
I'm definitely interested in those thread backups. Please drop me a line!
I'm definitely interested in those thread backups. Please drop me a line!
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