Building the Red October

Great bts pics! No wonder the Russians called these boats 'Shark'.

Yeah, the ladder and missile hatches do look a bit harsh at the moment. The weathering is off to a really good start though.

I went over the ladder(s) with Neutral Grey, (which is actually lighter in tone than the Duplicolor Grey Primer of the upper hull). The ladders blend much better now and look considerably better.

That hatch covers will remain about the same. The color of the covers themselves matches the filming miniature perfectly. It is the surrounding dark grey that is not wholly accurate. But I rationalize, and consider the steel in this section to be of a different height, grade, or color! :D

I have added Neutral Grey and White streaking to the model, which has blended the weathering a bit better. Still have one more "Go" at it with the white tonight, as the weathering is still a tad "streaky" (sharply defined streaks).

I've been indecisive on adding the bow planes (they remain entirely uninstalled; not non-deployed). I think I will add them in a permanently deployed position, as the slots for the planes stand out quite a bit.

I cheated up on the Catepillar doors.

On the bow, I penciled them in, and did just basic ovals. In one reference shot, they looked oval; in another, they looked trapezoidal. Oval was easier. For the stern, I used a bit of the clear label making stuff, just to add some relief. Again, I simplified the shape. Their OK... I was just not up to building out the full door housing.

Their is a sensor/sonar bulb forward on the hull I've been trying to ignore. Not sure if I'll add it or not. I could create it in Sculpey or Apoxie sculpt and stick it on there, I suppose.

Still have to add the small vertical fins (forward of the rudder), the "beaver tail", and the props. Props on the kit are a different shape (not scalloped like on the filming model). They're pretty small. Not sure if I will try to reshape them or not.
 
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You know, a mechanical pencil could work wonders? I mean . .you've never really done tiny lines over and over again . . .right?
 
I'd hate to try and mask off the 21 foot model let alone try and do it on a small a scale as 1/350!

My vote is yes to bow planes. She has them deployed for most of the film.

I'm itching to try my own version of the October but my budget will only stretch to the 1/700 kit. Might be kinda cute to have a little version to play with.
 
I'd hate to try and mask off the 21 foot model let alone try and do it on a small a scale as 1/350!

My vote is yes to bow planes. She has them deployed for most of the film.

I'm itching to try my own version of the October but my budget will only stretch to the 1/700 kit. Might be kinda cute to have a little version to play with.


Zenix and I have created a nice 3D model of her, but have yet to get it printed up and cast . . .maybe it's time?
 
Thats a big ass model! And I used to work in the shipyard in the 90's building Los Angeles class subs, super detailing they did on the model shame to see the real thing decay into a big rust bucket.
 
PHarchivist, I can see how the flexible mesh can distort and ruin the job. I saw something similar (this one is for a carbon effect, though). But he did it on really small parts though so the final effect worked so well. I think it's in Japanese(?) but I just followed along watching the video. At 9:21 he does the carbon effect.

Tamiya Ferrari F2001 Tutorial 1/2 ep11 - YouTube

PS. I don't understand how he can airbrush without a mask. Lungs of steel.
 
This is an excellent thread. What a wonderful build you've turned out, PHArchivist. I can't believe you got that wood putty to conform so well.
 
This is an excellent thread. What a wonderful build you've turned out, PHArchivist. I can't believe you got that wood putty to conform so well.

Thanks! A true magician never reveals his tricks right?

Well I'm no magician! The putty shrunk over time as it cured, so in person, you can see the hull extension. Hoping the weathering minimizes tis a bit. I also don't like the way the sail/conning tower sits on the hull. I wish I'd used some filler to close the seam. Oh well!

Thank you for the compliments! They help counterthe things that bug me! ;)
 
CATEPILLAR DOORS:

Just watched the film last night. As makes sense, the doors are wide open in much of the film.

Also noted that the shape DOES seem to change. I think they used two different models. I thought I'd heard there was an 11-footer along with the well-documented 21-footer.

Suppose the two models (granted there were two) had different shaped doors?

Oval doors do seem present, and are easier. The doors I drew on have been lost in the weathering.

Just had an epiphany as I am posting this. To get the doors open, and to ensure perfectly-shaped ovals, why not drill them out? Use maybe a 1/4" or 5/8" drill bit, drill two holes per door, and file out the excess plastic in between...
 
You all note that in the film, during Ryan's initial briefing, he presents a photo of the Red October, and it is a true Typhoon, with all the differences between the real on and the models present and accounted for?

So we kow why the filming miniatures vary from the oirginal Typhoon? Has it to do with the full-sized set/sub? Maybe when building the set, they had to simplify the base of the conning tower and hull...?
 
I was always under the belief that the reason why Red October looked different from the other Typhoons was that there wasn't a lot of reference material available at the time. I don't know how correct that is.

Here are some DVD screencaps.

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I prefer the look of the trapezoidal doors as the oval ones look too much like ordinary torpedo tubes.
 
Just had an epiphany as I am posting this. To get the doors open, and to ensure perfectly-shaped ovals, why not drill them out? Use maybe a 1/4" or 5/8" drill bit, drill two holes per door, and file out the excess plastic in between...


Well that was one of the worst ideas in my sad long list of bad ideas.... :unsure
 
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:( How bad is it?

After drilling with the power drill, I forgot my Dremel is toast, so was unable to finesse the openings. So have filled, will need to sand, and re-paint today.

I'd mentioned I have forgotten what the lower (lighter) grey was. After an hour of testing all the greys I have, you know what? I think it is the same I used on the Death Star!
 
To quote the movie:

"You aren't going to believe this..."

Went in this morning early to get a head start on sanding down the filler. Guess what I discovered (or rediscovered)?

The forward Catepillar doors were already there...! Sort of...

This kit - made by Dragon - featured acutal tubes and holes to screw the hull together. Most are a single tube along the keel (do subs have keels?).

But on the bow, there are two, oval shaped holes, nearly in perfect position to reppresent the doors.

Check it out..

building-red-october-ro-010412-008.jpg-80384d1326045996



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I had filled these with putty, over a robust adhesive (probably a pool of A in the tube) used to lock in the screw. But after hogging out all the putty, I am pretty much good to go.

I've applied another layer of putty on my screwed up holes. Once cured, I'll sand, and paint.

Just hope the paint is the correct color...
 
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