Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION

[Robiwon]

I am of the belief that the extra, dark grey panels were done at a later time and that whole station was not done in dark panels and then lightened. It's more logical that the darker sections were done later, simply with a different shade of paint. Plus, from a filming perspective, it gives a kind of forced shading effect with the darker panels around to the side.

 

[Dyonisis]

Dammit - now I've got myself wondering...

Who here votes that THE ENTIRE model was done with heavy, dark grey "base coat" blocks (like what we see on the right edge) first, which was then toned down by not only the speckling (black and white), but a fair amount of the true (light grey) base coat.

In fact, Davy Jones, you did some similar that (misting light grey base coat), only without the darker grey base coat.

And another repected member has shared with me that idea - of misting light grey base coat over the blocks to tone down the contrast.

I was going to suggest that. Maybe this was sprayed with all dark squares,and rectangles first,and the lighting made it look too dark all over?

Of course,this would explain why the fading appears towards the back of the Death Star,and not towards the front. Maybe they felt it didn't give the proper amount of exposure against the backdrop of outerspace,or that it didn't have a proper sense of scale? That seems most logical. However,there is no denying that the darker panels are there,and not covered over as densely as,the rest of the model.

I'd practice on scrap until you get the desired effect with the correct amount of hide,and speckling pattern from the distance required to not make this a bumpy speckled mess from all the suggestions flying around in here.

 

[PHArchivist]

Who here votes that THE ENTIRE model was done with heavy, dark grey "base coat" blocks (like what we see on the right edge) first, which was then toned down by not only the speckling (black and white), but a fair amount of the true (light grey) base coat.

Regarding the concept of base coat sprayed over darker panels, look at the upper dome here, just at and above the equator. You can see the dark band fade away as the base light grey was sprayed over it. You can even make out an ever-so-slight "ghosting" of the darker band where - at a glance - it looks like solid light grey base.

Granted, this is in the area that was most likely done later and with varying techniques, but interesting nonetheless.

 

[Davy Jones]

I like it. Try it out.
Like others have said, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[Robiwon]

I wonder if they used some type of light reflective paint? You know, like the reflective tape on police cars. That's the impression I get. Not that the paint is a different color but is actually reflecting the light back at the camera. Light source near the front, lighter shade, no direct light to the side, darker shade.

 

[PHArchivist]

Yes - a lot of ideas and concepts flying about. To streamline things, here's my approach:

--Today, I will complete the process of trimming the height of the first row of blocks
--Next, I will assess the porportions of the first row, and decide if I need to trim the width too, or even start fresh
--After that, I will get a flat piece of styrene, and conduct a more diligent test (without base coat) in effort t match what DJ arrived upon
--Then I will assess if I want to redo the speckle I have, modify it further, or go with what is there already as is

Frankly, I'm leaning towards the "no dark base coat" aproach. And as mentioned, there are already areas on the model I've identified where I was planning on not using a dark base coat. Also, though I have done quick tests with no dark base coat, admittedly thoses tests did not incorporate a dense enough speckle pattern.

So again, and in short - modify the porportions of the first row, do a better test, and reassess my technique.

 

[PHArchivist]

I wonder if they used some type of light reflective paint? You know, like the reflective tape on police cars. That's the impression I get. Not that the paint is a different color but is actually reflecting the light back at the camera. Light source near the front, lighter shade, no direct light to the side, darker shade.

I don't thing so. MANY props (as we all know) had the stuff you refer to (5' Falcon had a lot) and with amatuer photography, the flash bounces it back extremely harsh. It pops. Maybe what you're seeing is simply the effect of a short blast of punctuated white light from the camera flash.

There ARE definitely strips of silver paint or silver tape on the model, however. Mostly on the quadrant to the left of the dish.

 

[chris_s]

It looks like they just layered it.

They layed down a base coat of light grey over the entire model.
Then masked the "panels." Gave them a dark grey base.
Then gave multiple passes of speckling.
And finally gave a final very light speckle coat of the light grey to tone it all down.

Which is why the light grey fades out at the edge of the model. You can see in that photo the swirled 'smoke' effect of the final light grey misting over the darker panels underneath. You can also see parts of the darker panels where they skipped some of the middle "speckle" passes with the paint because they were near the edge of the model.

 

[Dyonisis]

I don't thing so. MANY props (as we all know) had the stuff you refer to (5' Falcon had a lot) and with amatuer photography, the flash bounces it back extremely harsh. It pops. Maybe what you're seeing is simply the effect of a short blast of punctuated white light from the camera flash.

There ARE definitely strips of silver paint or silver tape on the model, however. Mostly on the quadrant to the left of the dish.

Without contradicting myself: If I may be so bold as to suggest that this was sprayed both with,and without a backing colour. I may be new here,but I used to be an art student,so from what I know of contrast,and lighting conditions - maybe there are some places that aren't simply sprayed over an undercoat,but directly over it. There are definately darker shades,and overtones to this,so it may be decieving to the eye just exactly where those spots are.

There are many thoughts as to what was,but as I said before - we need to look past what we think might be there,and see what we most likely not expect! This was made in the seventies,but done by former art students,and teachers,as well as model makers. There were many different factors,and contributing members of this project to make what the script called for that was available to make this all possible.

There might have been last minute changes,or even damage that needed to be covered up,or there may even have been paint mismatches that happened as supplies ran out. There was more than one person working on this project,so all we can do is speculate from a modelers' view what circumstances surround this to make it what it is today.

This is an enormous undertaking that most of us wouldn't even attempt Rob! What you are doing is truly a first anywhere since the 1975 - 1977 era! Just take your time - this IS your masterpiece,and just one moment of distraction,or indiscretion can bring it all crashing down!

After all the posts I've read there are few that I consider noteworthy of following through on. There are a lot of talented people trying to lend you their best advice,which I highly commend. But,without actually doing this like Davey Jones did - these are all just ideas that have yet to be applied.
Trust you instincts Rob - do this very carefully,and proceed just the way you've planned. You've come this far,and I know that you can do it from what I've read so far. We're all smiling on you,as you've done this forum proud,and doing ILM a true tribute to their vision.

 

[PHArchivist]

Some very nice things said there; thank you...

Not much to show today, but I succeeded in shortening the first row. I taped off aobut 7mm-8mm (left exposed), saned down the speckle, and hit it with base coat. Got a bit of a mask line, but once the paint is cured I'll sand it down, and it will then be covered by the middle band of cityscapes.

I still need to make more narrow some of the blocks in the first row. Some, not all. The alteration in porportions isn't as noticeable as I'd feared.

 

[PHArchivist]

From the left:

Blocks 1 and 2 are passable, blocks 3 and 4 are too wide, block (strip?) 5 is too wide, block 6 is too narrow, the rest are pretty much OK.

Starting from the first gap between blocks 1 and 2, gap 2 will be too wide once the blocks are narrowed, as will gap 3 and maybe gap 4. The rest should be OK.

Have you guys picked up on the fact that I'm using this thread as my note pad? Long time ago, huh?

 

[Dyonisis]

From the left:

Blocks 1 and 2 are passable, blocks 3 and 4 are too wide, block (strip?) 5 is too wide, blook 6 is too narrow, the rest are pretty much OK.

Starting from the first gap between blocks 1 and 2, gap 2 will be too wide once the blocks are narrowed, as will gap 3 and maybe gap 4. The rest should be OK.

Have you guys picked up on the fact that I'm using this thread as my note pad? Long time ago, huh?

I see what problem that you're having Rob. The proportion of the lines to the equator with the approximate location from the dish to the other lines where the panels are. Panel two looks too wide,but it isn't - panel three,and four are too wide in the scale of the other panels. The indented T shape on panel 5 is too high,and too far to the back proportionately to be accurate to the original.

I suggest repainting the three,and four panels,then lightening up the first two panels. Then take off the masking tape to see where you are proportionately with the original Death Star by using the same comparison that you've used here.

 

[chris_s]

What about using the tape to create the panels before painting. Then tracing em, masking em and then painting them.

Just trying to think of some way you can see and play with the size of the panels before you go to the trouble of masking and painting.

 

[PHArchivist]

I see what problem that you're having Rob. The proportion of the lines to the equator with the approximate location from the dish to the other lines where the panels are. Panel two looks too wide,but it isn't - panel three,and four are too wide in the scale of the other panels. The indented T shape on panel 5 is too high,and too far to the back proportionately to be accurate to the original.

I suggest repainting the three,and four panels,then lightening up the first two panels. Then take off the masking tape to see where you are proportionately with the original Death Star by using the same comparison that you've used here.

Yes - I'd noted that almost immediately (one of the draw backs of not having a printer that works or a monitor in the workshop!), just forgot to mention it in the above list.

Guys - I've got a pret-ty funny story to tell regarding a key player in this project (no one you know here). But it will have to wait until tomorrow!

 

[vaderdarth]

I suggest using the little notches of the equator to guage the width of your panels and of course the edge of the superlaser for the height. Just a thought. I thought your notches looked pretty dead on.

Dave

 

[PHArchivist]

I suggest using the little notches of the equator to guage the width of your panels and of course the edge of the superlaser for the height. Just a thought. I thought your notches looked pretty dead on.

Dave

I thought about that Dave...

But reference of the original (in its original state) that show a clean and clear shot of the equator (or at least a decent percentage of it) are rare.

For instance, most shots of the original are just roughly 1/4 or 1/2 of the equator. The rest is either cropped out or in the dark. The poster I have (the one that clued me in about the notches!) shows them, but the resolution on the image is pretty poor.

And remember - the notches no longer exist on the model today. :unsure So my own shots don't show them (though ther are paint shadows where they used to be).

I suppose HD screen-caps might work...

 

[PHArchivist]

I see what problem that you're having Rob. The proportion of the lines to the equator with the approximate location from the dish to the other lines where the panels are. Panel two looks too wide,but it isn't - panel three,and four are too wide in the scale of the other panels. The indented T shape on panel 5 is too high,and too far to the back proportionately to be accurate to the original.

I suggest repainting the three,and four panels,then lightening up the first two panels. Then take off the masking tape to see where you are proportionately with the original Death Star by using the same comparison that you've used here.

I don't think I'm going to mess with the porportions of the blocks much more at all. The more I futz with them, the more chances I have of effing them up.

I will most likely modify/narrow block 4 just slightly (not block 3 since I don't want to narrow gap 2). Then I will erase and redo the skinny strip and widen the block with the "T", fixing the "T" in the process.

That will be about it. Everything else is far enough around the ball as not to be too close to the focal point, and not require a true match.

For the next row up, following some sage wisdom I'm going to be smarter about it and work with templates first!

 

[vaderdarth]

I like it, sounds safer than messing up what already looks incredible

I ordered a huge poster size official pix photo of the DS, I will take a nice hi rez photo of it and email it to ya Rob. Maybe it wil help, even the thumbnail of it, shows the notches If I recall.

Dave

Unfortunately it doesn't show that side, but maybe it will help when you get to the left of the laser.

 

[PHArchivist]

Guys - I've got a pret-ty funny story to tell regarding a key player in this project (no one you know here). But it will have to wait until tomorrow!

OK so check this out...

My 9-year-old son recently expressed interest in cub scouts. We had an orientation last week, and the first pack meeting yesterday evening.

Last week, I met his den leader (man in his mid-to-late 40's) and gave my email address with a bit of insight to the PH element (my collection of photos from Planet Hollywood). So he knew I was a film memorabilia buff.

Last night I got his email address, which had the word "Toy" in it. I inquired, and he advised he was formerly in the toy industry.

I asked when, as I was wondering if he might have been involved in Star Wars toys.

More in a bit...

 

[modeleers]

No sarcasm here, I so love a story told in installments...