Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION

There is a consistency in the density and the tone of the speckles, but the pattern is random. I too believe the toothbrush method is the way to go, it's a pretty standard technique. Space artists use it to make stars, a few flicks of the brush and BAM! Instant stars of every size, in a wonderfully random pattern. Just do several passes, each with a different gray shade.
 
absolutely, the density of the speckles is key and you have great reference pics to go by, so it's just a matter of starting out with light layers and slowly building up to the desired density with multiple passes. I'd start out practicing with black and white first and then start throwing in the different shades of gray.
 
Rob,

Have you given up on the printed decal idea? You can't get more consistent than that.

I would still be more than happy to assist, and still have all the files from when we were discussing it back in June.
 
I can plainly see the non-consistency of the speckles sizes and patterns........ I just don't see the consistency that you're seeing.

Its not so much the consistency of the individual speckles within a small defined space.

I agree - take a 4" square section, and there is a mulitude of shapes and sizes of the individual specks. But when you broaden your view to the entire globe, and take in the gestalt of the damn thing, it is pretty damn even across the entire ball. This is proven when viewing the model in person. The only real variance is in colors (certain hemispheres - or sections there of - are darker or lighter).

absolutely, the density of the speckles is key and you have great reference pics to go by, so it's just a matter of starting out with light layers and slowly building up to the desired density with multiple passes. I'd start out practicing with black and white first and then start throwing in the different shades of gray.

Now you guys are beginning to hit around my dilemma. Do not forget the vast area of covererage required, and the time involved (I'm not going to mask the entire ball in one shot; it will be done in sections).

Any of these methods - on a small scale - would be OK; fairly simple. But over the total amount of surface area I'm dealing with, it grows more challenging maintaining the same consistency.

Its easy doing two or three 4" squares and have them all come out pretty much the same. But try 150 to 200 4"squares...
 
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I can almost garauntee that I could do the spray paint speckled patter with consistency. It's all about taking your time and stepping back every so often to check for consistency.

I really don't think it's as hard as you think it is.

Brad has a good point - I can't loose sight of the fact that a major contributing factor to my overall concern is trepidation. Maybe even intimidation.

It is such a large job, and one that is so critical to get right, that (surpirse here) I easily could be worrying about it too much, and it may not be as difficult after all once I get going.

You never know how well you can swim until you get your ass in the pool, right?

How else would they have done it back in '76?

Now that's the Question of the Day, isn't it...?

I would LOVE to know how Ralph McQuarrie painted it, or finished it way back when. Though some here may disagree, I won't be convinced it was NOT some form of applique until Gus invites me to his home, raises the plexi case for me and allows me to get my paws on the real deal.

Regrettably, gaining insight from Mr. McQuarrie is likely not a fruitful path, considering his age and ailments, and the time passed since it was made back in 1976.
 
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Rob,

Have you given up on the printed decal idea? You can't get more consistent than that.

I would still be more than happy to assist, and still have all the files from when we were discussing it back in June.

I sent you some decal paper... Did you ever try it out?

Jedi Dade

Big problem with that - fade rate. At least with my home printer set-up.

I ran a bench test - I pasted some printed out patterns on the garage door (faces due west and is hammered by sunlight half the day). The HP inks I'm using in the HP printer faded to a deep rose color after a week or so, then the rose faded out ENTIRELY leaving a much much lighter version of the original pattern colors.

I have a professional printing shop in town that I will email an image file to. They have a set up they feel may not fade as fast. But I'm not sure about the paper they will print on (how thin it may be) or if they can print on decal paper.
 
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I'd still do the rattle can thing in big triangular sections . If you look at the original Rob, there are "wedges" that were painted separately as you can see a different shade of gray in some sections. I still believe you can get close enough overall to make it appear uniform. Best way it just keeping the paint light. Less is certainly more in this case. I just don't believe you'll be happy with stickers or anything short of paint.

Dave :)
 
I'd still do the rattle can thing in big triangular sections . If you look at the original Rob, there are "wedges" that were painted separately as you can see a different shade of gray in some sections. I still believe you can get close enough overall to make it appear uniform. Best way it just keeping the paint light. Less is certainly more in this case. I just don't believe you'll be happy with stickers or anything short of paint.

Dave :)

Yeah the whole sticker concept is dading fast - pun intended.
 
Don't they make splatter tips for airbrushes?

I'd almost guess that's what they would have used in 77 to cover such a large area consistently.

-Gary
 
I really think if you just take a scrap piece of styrene or whatever, prime it, and then just try it and play around with the flicking technique and get the feel of it you'll see how fast and easy it is to get the desired effect. You'll be surprised how large of an area you can cover easily as well. Since this is the same exact method they used to make all the star field backgrounds for ANH why would they do anything different to get the same effect on the death star surface. Once you dive in and try it you'll see!!!!! C'mon now.... jump......jump......jump:thumbsup
 
Like Tommy Lee Jones regarding Elvis, in MiB: "This project is NOT dead, it just got real boring...!"


Sort of big day today...

As you all know, I've been farting around with the trench and equator for like the past six years...

I've finally finished shortening the height, adding notches, adding styrene banding to the lower dome, smoothing out the bulge I created in doing so, getting the trench light proof again, and adding a final paint job.

Good news: I now have no excuse not to move forward with painting this *******.

Today:
Topost007.jpg


Previously:
021309001.jpg
 
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Holy crap, that looks beautiful. I honestly didn't think you could make the trench look better than it already did (looked perfect to me before), but man this is a work of art now! Good show!
 
Thanks amigo.

After a failed bench test with a printed texture pattern (due to fading), I'm nearly positive I'll revert back to the misting with rattle cans approach.

The 10-15 photos I smuggled out of the museum last May are on a hard drive that is currently in the shop. PC motherboard failed, but all indications are that the drive should be OK.

So once I get my reference material back, I think I'm going to start with the upper right (as you see it in the image, juxtaposed to the dish) quadrant.
 
I agree, the trench looks amazing. Well, the whole thing is amazing.

Looking forward to more progress as your patience and reference materials allow!
 
Looking fantastic. Thanks for the update; I had feared the worse when I have not seen much here.

I've been plugging away semi-steadily all summer. But the work was boring with not much to show. Add to that two summer trips, and a moderate to large remodel project in my house, and hence the focus wasn't completely on the DS.

But granted my images are still intact on the drive, I should be back in business soon!
 
Hey Rob. I could possibly break away for a Saturday sometime soon to help you paint. Let me know

Brad
 
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