PHArchivist
Master Member
That would be sweet... Masking too, right!?
Next ten Saturdays are Soccer Season, so may be half days, or relegated to Sundays. Thoughts?
Pray to the computer gods that my hard drive is fine!
Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION
- Thread starter PHArchivist
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That would be sweet... Masking too, right!?
Next ten Saturdays are Soccer Season, so may be half days, or relegated to Sundays. Thoughts?
Pray to the computer gods that my hard drive is fine!
Go to tiger direct or your other favorite computer place and buy a tera-byte external HD for around $100 and back up everything! At that price you can't afford NOT to have a back up storage 
And I have another question.... unless you're actually planning on having the thing sit in the sun 24x7 what is the issue with decals fading... Heck just about everything fades in direct sunlight... inside under normal lighting conditions I can't see it being a serious problem. If you're seriously worried about it you can always build a case for it out of UV protected glass... Just a thought.
Jedi Dade
And I have another question.... unless you're actually planning on having the thing sit in the sun 24x7 what is the issue with decals fading... Heck just about everything fades in direct sunlight... inside under normal lighting conditions I can't see it being a serious problem. If you're seriously worried about it you can always build a case for it out of UV protected glass... Just a thought.
Jedi Dade
PHArchivist
Master Member
Go to tiger direct or your other favorite computer place and buy a tera-byte external HD for around $100 and back up everything! At that price you can't afford NOT to have a back up storage
And I have another question.... unless you're actually planning on having the thing sit in the sun 24x7 what is the issue with decals fading... Heck just about everything fades in direct sunlight... inside under normal lighting conditions I can't see it being a serious problem. If you're seriously worried about it you can always build a case for it out of UV protected glass... Just a thought.
Jedi Dade
Actually, I do have an external 1tb drive, installed last year, but like a dope have not been saving data to the external (that will change!). The hi-res DS pics from this past May are NOT on the external. I'm hoping against hope that the techs will have it done and back to me today. The waiting is killing me!
Regarding the UV, its the long term factor, and the scope/scale of the project. I have a 1:72 shuttle with MOONRAKER decals done in the same fashion, and they are still black after two years, and displayed in the same area with about the same degree of UV exposure. But if they fade, it'd be very simple to replace the one or two SMALL decals. If the entire DS faded to pink (which is what this ink does), I'd be hosed.
I did think about building a case, or keeping a blanket over it. An arced, arcylic case, painted black with pin-prick stars would be cool. But the size of that projet in and of itself is daunting.
PHArchivist
Master Member
That is good news! My PC failure was apparently with the motherboard,a nd initial indications were that the drive appeared OK. Hopefully I'll know this afternoon.
Would love to go back to Seattle, but am not quite ready to do so yet!
I just bought an external 1TB drive a couple hours ago. My computer took a crap a couple months ago. Some Kernel files got corrupted, so the 2 drives I had in there won't boot, but I CAN access them as slave drives. I do back my stuff up, but was a month behind, and DVDs get expensive after a while. A hundred buck hard drive seems to be the most economical solution. So as we speak, all my files are being imported to that, then I can save up and get a good new computer, copy (not move!) the files onto it, and have everything and be backed up.
My really really important stuff that would kill me if I lost (ie screenplays I'm writing, family photos, etc), I keep triple backed up on a FTP storage space on a server me and a couple friends bought and own.
And for actual content pertaining to this thread, I'm glad you've decided to go the rattle can approach. Honestly, it's the only way they would have painted the original. Occam's Razor, my friend. Is it more likely they meticulously applied and stretched vinyl shelf paper and then cleanly drilled through it for all the windows, or did they just splatter on paint and flick it away with a pin?
My really really important stuff that would kill me if I lost (ie screenplays I'm writing, family photos, etc), I keep triple backed up on a FTP storage space on a server me and a couple friends bought and own.
And for actual content pertaining to this thread, I'm glad you've decided to go the rattle can approach. Honestly, it's the only way they would have painted the original. Occam's Razor, my friend. Is it more likely they meticulously applied and stretched vinyl shelf paper and then cleanly drilled through it for all the windows, or did they just splatter on paint and flick it away with a pin?
PHArchivist
Master Member
Good point... MAY be able to get to it this weekend if my photos are still accessible on my drive, and if I have time (soccer games Saturday, Picture Day Sunday).
PM'd you on the PC stuff...
PHArchivist
Master Member
Good news, all... Today is like Christmas for me!
My friend hooked up my internal hard drive as a USB device, and in just under an hour I had all my pics back. Oh yea!
Nine days and ultimate failure from Staples vs. one hour, and a slam dunk from my friend.
So we're back in business
My friend hooked up my internal hard drive as a USB device, and in just under an hour I had all my pics back. Oh yea!
Nine days and ultimate failure from Staples vs. one hour, and a slam dunk from my friend.
So we're back in business
PHArchivist
Master Member
I'm thinking I will start with this small section. Fairly small, and simple; good area to "get going" on.
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PHArchivist
Master Member
Here's an important find.
This section is on the lower dome to the right side. It pretty clearly supports the manually applied fleck theory, and undermines the pre-printed notion.
Note the fading out of the speckle pattern
A slightly closer look as the speckling fades away
And a broader look at the area in context
This section is on the lower dome to the right side. It pretty clearly supports the manually applied fleck theory, and undermines the pre-printed notion.
Note the fading out of the speckle pattern
A slightly closer look as the speckling fades away
And a broader look at the area in context
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vaderdarth
Master Member
Agreed with that assessment 100%
Rob,
I think in the end you will be so much happier with a painted DS versus a printed sticker DS. You know that is how they did it in '76. There is no way for them to have printed these patterns out so good back then.
Also think about this, as it may re-fuel your passion for this. You are the ONLY person who has tackled this project, therefore you will be THE only person with an accurate studi scale DS. People will be coming to you for info and admiration on this project. Much like Guy's Taun-Taun project, if he cheaped out in anyway, people wouldn't be as impressed with the final result as they are. This may take another year to complete but if you take the painting route and take your time you will have one of the most unobtainable prop/models out there.
As I have said, I would be willing to commit a couple of Saturdays to get through the masking and painting.
My rant is over...
Brad
I think in the end you will be so much happier with a painted DS versus a printed sticker DS. You know that is how they did it in '76. There is no way for them to have printed these patterns out so good back then.
Also think about this, as it may re-fuel your passion for this. You are the ONLY person who has tackled this project, therefore you will be THE only person with an accurate studi scale DS. People will be coming to you for info and admiration on this project. Much like Guy's Taun-Taun project, if he cheaped out in anyway, people wouldn't be as impressed with the final result as they are. This may take another year to complete but if you take the painting route and take your time you will have one of the most unobtainable prop/models out there.
As I have said, I would be willing to commit a couple of Saturdays to get through the masking and painting.
My rant is over...
Brad
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PHArchivist
Master Member
Not a rant at all. Well stated.
Obviously I've been vascillating over this, and the time I've taken I think has been worth it. Better to land on a firm decision/technique than to rush in. Testing, discussing, analyzing, and pondering habve all paid off, as I will be painting.
And I think I'm just about ready to take you up on your offer, Brad. Just have to work around soccer again. If on a Saturday, we'll have to look for one when I have a 9:00 game (done and home by 10:30ish). I think my next 9:00 games are in late September or early October. I also look forward to having support/partnership with the actual application process. We can help coach and spot each other on the spritzing of the paint.
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PHArchivist
Master Member
Problem with those is that the tactile texture they result in is WAY to rough.
I wonder if in the 1970's there was a similar product that did not have the thick, heavy texture this does.
I wonder if in the 1970's there was a similar product that did not have the thick, heavy texture this does.
I don't know if it's been said, but it looks very much like the faux "stone" spraypaint, though I think that stuff is fairly textured.
I agree. They didn't have these in '76 so I am sure they used the layered splatter effect.
As for the Saturdays, let me know which weekends work for you and I will see what I can do. It depends on my work, wife and kids schedule but I am down for any and all help I can give. I think the mapping of the surface needs to be done first.
Brad
PHArchivist
Master Member
I've created a folder of pics that could be used as a mosaic, so to speak. That should be sufficient. The recent pics from Seattle (last May) are priceless. They show pretty much the full pattern in crisp detail.
Another consideration: In my mind, the masking and painting process looms as a large, long, ardous and tedious process. I may find that it goes fairly quick. I think Lasse found this on his half-scale ball.
And the painting itself should be a relatively quick process. Its not like bust painting or weathering an X-Wing where art and finesse are key and take gobs of time. It will be just a few passes with each of the three or so colors, and boom; done. Or in other words, imagine I can wave my magic wand and one entire quarter of a dome is all masked off. Spritzing on the speckling should take more than 30 - 60 minutes tops.
Let's pencil in 9/26/09 or 10/3/09, Brad. I may go to San Diego on the 26th, but if not, both the 26th and the 3rd are early games.
PHArchivist
Master Member
Sweet. We'll keep in touch on it.
I'm going to get started on the quadrant on the upper dome, to the right of the dish. Its the most basic.
From there it will be a matter of attacking the lower dome, and I will gladly take some help on that. The lower dome is just physically and mentally awkward. Luckily, the blocking is not to complicated.
The most complicated masking appears to be the quadrant to the left of the dish (facing it).
I'm going to get started on the quadrant on the upper dome, to the right of the dish. Its the most basic.
From there it will be a matter of attacking the lower dome, and I will gladly take some help on that. The lower dome is just physically and mentally awkward. Luckily, the blocking is not to complicated.
The most complicated masking appears to be the quadrant to the left of the dish (facing it).
vaderdarth
Master Member
Rob, best advise I can give ya is, don't over think what you're doing when you start to apply the speckling. Don't concern yourself with details, just get the pattern on the entire part you're working on, then stand back, compare to pics and adjust lighter or darker. Keep it simple and I know you will love the eventual outcome.
Dave
Dave
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