Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION

OK - not quite as easy as I anticipated. Exacto didn't work perfectly. The tip is so fine it snaps off after a while.

I have two micro-drill bits chucked into a Dremel chuck. One is almost too big. One or maybe two turns and the hole is border-line too big. The other bit is smaller, and a few twists on the chuck is just a bout right.

But these bits will break soon enough and right now I don't have any replacements. And the last time I bought bits, I had to buy a full set of bits for about $30... :unsure
 
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Its also a bit challenging to get the right style - how close the lights are, patterns, density, lengths of lines of lights, etcetera.
 
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If the option is nothing short of getting a USW-334 like Jason's, I say don't touch it or you'll risk marring that beautiful surface. Some things are better left well enough alone - especially this masterpiece.
 
Can't wait. Pics Rob!!!!!!

You know, the challenge with pics of the lights is that it requires much better photography skills - hard to capture the right look.

Anyway...

Had a good day today.
--Just about finished finessing the dish; sanding down the detail pieces that were too thick, and painting over some lines that were too heavy.
--Added in some additional details in some of the blank grey areas
--Extened the trench farther near the back
--And a few other odds and ends

From a "lights on" (room lights, that is) perspective, it is 98% done.
 
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You just need a tripod Rob, that will improve your photography skills 100X. Use low lighting from behind the camera and to one side, then turn the lights on the DS, snap away. :)
 
Rob, to get the pictures you want, you're going to need two "passes" or elements. Shoot the DS beauty pass, then turn off your key light and expose for the model lights. Don't change focus or stop, get the correct exposure for the lights by adjusting the exposure time. Shoot tests to determine best exposures. Then composite the two images for a final. Depending on your background, you might also want to capture a matte pass.
 
Working away on the lights...

Scale is tricky. it is virtually impossible to tell exactly how big (or small) the lights are in photos, due to all the variables
--How blown out is the image
--How much light was used inside the original model
--How much light is being used in the original today
--How the images I'm using as reference were created (factoring Vista Vision's post)
--and more...

The lamp in the model today (in Seatlle) is not very powerful, and not nearly as powerful as the stage lamps they used. So the way the light holes appear today are probably a pretty good inidcator of their true size.
 
REQUEST FOR HELP


I've noted that the pattern of lights on the original is more predominantly oriented horizontally. That is, the more notable strings - or lines - of lights are horizontal.

While there are lines of lights running vertically, it seems to me that there are more running horizontally.

I'd be curious to see what you all think...

Dig out whatever reference you have on the original model, and tell me what characteristics you see in the lighting patterns.

For example, things I've noted are:
--More horizontal lines than vertical
--Varying sizes of light holes
--Some lines of lights are perfectly straight, while others meander showing a "hand-made" look
--Some clusters of lights (versus straight lines)
--Some lines are actually double lines

What else do you see?
 
Here is another method I have available to assess the size of the light holes. In this image of the original, each black dot is a light hole.

building-death-star-production-size-005.jpg-49031d1301250405
 
IMO, most of the light holes on the original were tiny.

If she were mine, I'd be sure to err on the side of making the lights too small. Easier to move up to a larger bit if necessary than to have to fill in with paint and start over.
 
You need to have a prop party at your house and everyone bring little drills. Great build and thread

-James

Just give them a piece of scrap to do first to see if they have any skill... with the amount of ANAL (no offense I mean it as a compliment actually) that went into this bad boy, I'd be shocked if he let anyone that "wasn't DS certified" go near it with a drill bit in hand :D


As for the question about Horizontal and Vertical... I think its a pretty even mixture. I think you need both Latitudinal and Logitudinal rows & columns to give the appearance of "grid" without actually having to drill out the entire grid... If I had a gun to my head I'd say more latidudinal (horizontal) but you needs strings of both...

my 2 cents :D

Jedi Dade
 
Just give them a piece of scrap to do first to see if they have any skill... with the amount of ANAL (no offense I mean it as a compliment actually) that went into this bad boy, I'd be shocked if he let anyone that "wasn't DS certified" go near it with a drill bit in hand :D


As for the question about Horizontal and Vertical... I think its a pretty even mixture. I think you need both Latitudinal and Logitudinal rows & columns to give the appearance of "grid" without actually having to drill out the entire grid... If I had a gun to my head I'd say more latidudinal (horizontal) but you needs strings of both...

my 2 cents :D

Jedi Dade

Funny you say that....! I too had previous thoughts of a "light party", but after I realized it took me two or three sittings working on it to get the right "feel", the concept of "untrained" folks leaves me a bit leary!
 

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