Bondo patching goo

[metal wood]

i have accumulated a number of "gooish" type things for my pathetic attempts at model building, most of them make the sanding so hard to do i abandon the projects.
my question, the bondo product that i see everyone using, how dose it sand and how bad are the fumes (indoor or outdoor). any help is always welcome! cheers.

 

[Gattaca]

What others call bondo, I call auto-body filler, so I hope we're talking about the same stuff, if not I hope someone corrects me. The filler I use is stinky and should be mixed in a well ventilated area, I go outside to work with it. Once the bondo is mixed, it will go to a rubbery stage within minutes, at this point you can use a sharp razor to trim off excess filler, this makes for less sanding. Once the filler has fully harden start with coarse sand paper and work your way down. It can be hard to sand if your paper is too fine, and if it's not fully set it will gum up your sandpaper, but other wise it sands very well and you will be happy with the results. Also it sticks to practically everyting so it's good for lots of applications. I get mine at auto supply stores and it's not very expensive.
I hope this helps.

 

[Wes R]

yeah do it outside and wear a mask, also you may want to leave it sit outside for a few days as the fumes linger now and then.

 

[division 6]

If you are referring to Bondo Spot Putty it stinks and once cured sands easy.

 

[OldSkoolEffects]

Bondo Glazing/Spot Putty works amazingly for smoothing, but it doesn't work well in thick layers. What I found with 2-part autobody fillers is that doing several layers that I squeegeed once or twice and sanded, works better than a thick layer I squeegeed til it's rubbery.

 

[metal wood]

thanks guys, thats all my questions answered!