Now if I can just stain it without screwing it up!Dude…. This is really happening
Thanks for the tips. I've been watching videos on staining Maple, trying to find one that's the shade I want so I can copy it exactly. The door is very dark. It might even be painted. So I'm not too concerned with it getting too dark. It's hard to tell exactly because the lighting changes so much and the film is so dark. Here are a few shots with different levels of the brightness adjusted that show the general color. In some scenes it has an almost espresso or ebony color and in others there's more red chestnut.You may want to try a trick we used for getting perfect sunburst finishes on guitars every time:
First you seal it with your sanding sealer.
Then apply clear.
Then apply the tinted clear to achieve final color.
Finally top coat with clear to seal it.
This way, if you F-up, you can sand it back and never touch the wood.
If you apply stain directly to the wood, you will never get it out if you go too dark.
I agreeThanks for the tips. I've been watching videos on staining Maple, trying to find one that's the shade I want so I can copy it exactly. The door is very dark. It might even be painted. So I'm not too concerned with it getting too dark. It's hard to tell exactly because the lighting changes so much and the film is so dark. Here are a few shots with different levels of the brightness adjusted that show the general color. In some scenes it has an almost espresso or ebony color and in others there's more red chestnut.
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This example on the left is espresso on raw maple. Looks the part to me.
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Yep, used 2" to hit wood. It's very sturdy.Yeah, that’s… fantastic.
One comment: I guess this door is significantly heavier than the old one. The casement may not be up to the task. Be sure to run long screws on the casement side to catch the stud. Otherwise you may slowly develop alignment problems.
Hur hur, 2" to hit wood!Yep, used 2" to hit wood. It's very sturdy.