Black series XWing Pilot helmet up for pre-order on Amazon

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DJb1138

Member
These look great, excellent work! Did you use an airbrush for any of the weathering? Or was it all done by hand?

Thanks! It was a bit of both... mostly washes and dry pigment (like Gold Leader), but there is some airbrushing there, too. I brought it home from my studio space recently, so I could use it :)
 

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DJb1138

Member
And now, for the "nicer pics"... :D

Wedge - Red 2:
IMG_20200610_011345.jpg IMG_20200610_011357.jpg IMG_20200610_011404.jpg IMG_20200610_011411.jpg IMG_20200610_011439.jpg IMG_20200610_011450.jpg IMG_20200610_011511.jpg IMG_20200610_011536.jpg IMG_20200610_011549.jpg


Jon D. Brannon - Red 4:
IMG_20200610_011713.jpg IMG_20200610_011728.jpg IMG_20200610_011743.jpg IMG_20200610_011751.jpg IMG_20200610_011803.jpg IMG_20200610_011810.jpg IMG_20200610_011825.jpg IMG_20200610_011851.jpg IMG_20200610_011937.jpg

Thanks for checking these ones out, everyone! I'm excited to have them done so I can share them with all of you.
 

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CadetTK2386

Well-Known Member
So I ordered a set of decals from a popular Etsy seller for my Black Series Wedge repaint. They looked good on the sheet when I received them, and went to apply them to my helmet. That’s when I realized there were two issues with them.

I'm pretty sure I got a set from the same seller, I'm repainting the one I got into a Tierfon Yellow Aces for my wife's Rey, and the decal set I got had the same issue on the "Vs" as well as the fact that while there was the appearance of a cut line around all the individual decals, they actually weren't cut. I had to go in with an Exacto because the the decals weren't fully cut out from the sheet, just sort indented around the decals.
 

RodanAZ

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure I got a set from the same seller, I'm repainting the one I got into a Tierfon Yellow Aces for my wife's Rey, and the decal set I got had the same issue on the "Vs" as well as the fact that while there was the appearance of a cut line around all the individual decals, they actually weren't cut. I had to go in with an Exacto because the the decals weren't fully cut out from the sheet, just sort indented around the decals.

Were yours actually on vinyl? I think I used the same seller and got decals printed on sticker paper... useless except as patterns for stencils.
 

Ackbar16

Active Member
I had several back, and forth conversations with the Etsy seller about my issues with the decals. I think I had to convince him that I wasn’t being combative, and genuinely trying to help. Once we got past that he took my advice, and worked to correct the issues I pointed out. Since then, he’s been very good with communication.

He increased the size of the decals that were too small, and made corrections to the “V” decals so they weren’t off set. The decals I received were printed on vinyl paper. I had no issues with the cuts, but that’s not to say it’s not possible someone else didn’t.

He’s going to send me a sheet of the re-sized “V” decals, so I’ll report back once I receive the updated version.
 

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Zeke1

New Member
To quote the great philosopher Luke Skywalker: "What a piece of junk!".

The chin strap snap sheared right off the first time I used it - and on the helmet half too. At least if it had been on the strap end I could have fixed it but on the helmet it's embedded into the mold. No way to fix it that I can see.

Between that and the crummy velcro I'm sorely disappointed in this one Hasbro.
 

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DJb1138

Member
To quote the great philosopher Luke Skywalker: "What a piece of junk!".

The chin strap snap sheared right off the first time I used it - and on the helmet half too. At least if it had been on the strap end I could have fixed it but on the helmet it's embedded into the mold. No way to fix it that I can see.

Between that and the crummy velcro I'm sorely disappointed in this one Hasbro.

Ugh - that sucks, Zeke. If you wanted to fix it, taking the helmet apart (or, at least getting that panel out) isn't too bad...

I agree with the velcro, though. I've been trying out other velcro bit (ones from JoAnn Fabrics, specifically) to help evenly adhere the pads in - they help, more or less, it really comes down to the glue on the velcro pieces "sticking" to the plastic lining of the helmet.
 

Zeke1

New Member
Ugh - that sucks, Zeke. If you wanted to fix it, taking the helmet apart (or, at least getting that panel out) isn't too bad...

I agree with the velcro, though. I've been trying out other velcro bit (ones from JoAnn Fabrics, specifically) to help evenly adhere the pads in - they help, more or less, it really comes down to the glue on the velcro pieces "sticking" to the plastic lining of the helmet.
I'd be willing to try and replace the snap if I could figure out how to get the inside panel off. It looked to me like it was just held on by screws and rubber molding around the edge. Removing the screws seems pretty straight forward but it feel like the rubber molding would be a challenge because it feels like it's glued in place. Am I right?
 

DJb1138

Member
I'd be willing to try and replace the snap if I could figure out how to get the inside panel off. It looked to me like it was just held on by screws and rubber molding around the edge. Removing the screws seems pretty straight forward but it feel like the rubber molding would be a challenge because it feels like it's glued in place. Am I right?dis

With the screws, yes - it's quite easy, man. The rubber molding isn't glued in at all, it clips in around the edge and will pop right out when you loosen the screws.

I've done some disassembly videos for my Gold Leader buildup, PM me your email and I'll hook you up with my Google Drive folder with them (I haven't gotten around to putting them together on YouTube yet :p ).
 

Zeke1

New Member
With the screws, yes - it's quite easy, man. The rubber molding isn't glued in at all, it clips in around the edge and will pop right out when you loosen the screws.

I've done some disassembly videos for my Gold Leader buildup, PM me your email and I'll hook you up with my Google Drive folder with them (I haven't gotten around to putting them together on YouTube yet :p ).
PM sent. Thanks
 

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Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
You know what would be an interesting mashup? An X Wing pilot helmet done up in Top Gun graphics. Or vice versa.
I immediately went "Oo, neat idea" and went to look at what that might be like. Going one way is... kinda unimpressive. Thanks to them using an APH-6B as the helmet base for ANH, seeing, say, Red Leader's markings on a standard APH just looks like someone forgot the mohawk on the Star Wars helmet.

The other way, though, definitely makes for a fun crossover idea. The visor shield personalizations can definitely be split, tweaked, and scaled to work around the mohawk. Bonus points if the pilots' handles are done in aurebesh.

Now I'm also thinking of doing a U-Wing helmet as Farro's from Aliens -- with the "FLY THE FRIENDLY SKIES" also hand-painted on in aurebesh. Pilots' helmets have such a wonderful range of possibility...
 
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DJb1138

Member
I immediately went "Oo, neat idea" and went to look at what that might be like. Going one day is... kinda unimpressive. Thanks to them using an APH-6B as the helmet base for ANH, seeing, say, Red Leader's markings on a standard APH just looks like someone forgot the mohawk on the Star Wars helmet.

The other way, though, definitely makes for a fun crossover idea. The visor shield personalizations can definitely be split, tweaked, and scaled to work around the mohawk. Bonus points if the pilots' handles are done in aurebesh.

Now I'm also thinking of doing a U-Wing helmet as Farro's from Aliens -- with the "FLY THE FRIENDLY SKIES" also hand-painted on in aurebesh. Pilots' helmets have such a wonderful range of possibility...

I was thinking the exact same thing! The possibilities of doing the asymmetrical visor shield artwork is really cool, as well as incorporating more "hand painted"/rough personalizations from the pilot add to the character and "story" of the helmet. I'd love to do a few like that. :D
 

Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I was thinking the exact same thing! The possibilities of doing the asymmetrical visor shield artwork is really cool, as well as incorporating more "hand painted"/rough personalizations from the pilot add to the character and "story" of the helmet. I'd love to do a few like that. :D
I'm doing that with one of my Mando helmets. Rangefinder is replaced with a blast shield on which I'm painting in aurebesh) "IF YOU CAN READ THIS IT'S TOO LATE".
 

Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I know DJb1138 has a disassembly video, but now that Entertainment Earth has restocked and I have my Luke helmets, I tackled this and wanted to update this thread with handy tips and observations for taking these apart. As with the suspension attachment points in their Boba helmet, several points that have given people problems fall under the category of "if brute force doesn't solve your problems, you're not using enough".

After removing all the screws and the rubber trim, I poked around to see where things were cooperative and where they were stubborn. The next step for a full disassembly is popping out the visor. It's pretty tough plastic. I was going at it with a flat-blade screwdriver and it's barely scuffed. I hadn't been planning to keep it, so I wasn't bothering being careful. As was mentioned upthread, the root of the visor needs to be forced inward to pop off the retaining clips. I pried the inner retaining wall away from the visor with the screwdriver to give myself more working room, then, though experimentation, got the middle to pop out first, followed by the ends. Your mileage may vary. Here it is, freed. I haven't done anything to clean it up, not even wiping away finger smudges from yanking on it:

DSC02767.JPG


After that, there was enough play inside to seriously apply myself to the lining. the seams aren't decorative. Don't be afraid to really force it to get it to pop free. Start with the side pieces and push them into the middle. POP! POP! The the rear piece, POP!, which exposes most of the electronics. Then pulling in at each temple popped one side, then the other free at the mohawk front detail piece's retaining clips, and that whole thing came out. The wires are taped to the backside of that crown piece, and the tape comes off pretty easily.

DSC02775.JPG

DSC02776.JPG

DSC02766.JPG


The mowhawk strip is mostly held on with the four screws through the crown lining and the greeblie at the front snapped on. Near the back the strip has two retaining clips of its own, which are easy enough to pop free. The last bit was tough on this first helmet I tackled. I welcome others' experience with this -- and potential solutions. Toward the very rear end of the mohawk strip it has a lateral tab that is friction fit and glued into a slot on the battery unit. I just forced mine until the plastic gave, in hopes I could defeat the glue bond, but no:

DSC02771.JPG

DSC02774.JPG


(Sorry for the blurry.)

DSC02765.JPG


You can see how the strip fatigued and bent at that tab. I need to find a better way to deal with that, for at least one helmet.

That strip was mostly what locks the helmet halves together. That and these two glued tabs at the back:

DSC02768.JPG


Those, at least, are fairly easy to pop apart. I think one of my favorite things about this helmet is that, even though it's engineered so that everything on the final helmet is lined up right, it's still one half overlapping the other, just like the originals:

DSC02764.JPG


In the end, apart from that one troublesome tab, the electronics all come out easily as a unit:

DSC02769.JPG


...and the helmet interior looks like this:

DSC02763.JPG


A lot to play with in there, depending on what one wants to do with it. I'm likely to keep the side pieces of the lining, at least, with mods. The snaps are handy, they help retain the rubber edge strip, the mic mount is convenient, and some form of better earcups can be mounted to them while removed, the whole subassembly being able to just be screwed securely in place. I might see if I can extensively rework the crown lining piece to interact with a less-static visor... A lot depends on how much room is needed for a head and good padding.
 

DJb1138

Member
I know DJb1138 has a disassembly video, but now that Entertainment Earth has restocked and I have my Luke helmets, I tackled this and wanted to update this thread with handy tips and observations for taking these apart. As with the suspension attachment points in their Boba helmet, several points that have given people problems fall under the category of "if brute force doesn't solve your problems, you're not using enough".

After removing all the screws and the rubber trim, I poked around to see where things were cooperative and where they were stubborn. The next step for a full disassembly is popping out the visor. It's pretty tough plastic. I was going at it with a flat-blade screwdriver and it's barely scuffed. I hadn't been planning to keep it, so I wasn't bothering being careful. As was mentioned upthread, the root of the visor needs to be forced inward to pop off the retaining clips. I pried the inner retaining wall away from the visor with the screwdriver to give myself more working room, then, though experimentation, got the middle to pop out first, followed by the ends. Your mileage may vary. Here it is, freed. I haven't done anything to clean it up, not even wiping away finger smudges from yanking on it:

View attachment 1441798

After that, there was enough play inside to seriously apply myself to the lining. the seams aren't decorative. Don't be afraid to really force it to get it to pop free. Start with the side pieces and push them into the middle. POP! POP! The the rear piece, POP!, which exposes most of the electronics. Then pulling in at each temple popped one side, then the other free at the mohawk front detail piece's retaining clips, and that whole thing came out. The wires are taped to the backside of that crown piece, and the tape comes off pretty easily.

View attachment 1441799
View attachment 1441800
View attachment 1441801

The mowhawk strip is mostly held on with the four screws through the crown lining and the greeblie at the front snapped on. Near the back the strip has two retaining clips of its own, which are easy enough to pop free. The last bit was tough on this first helmet I tackled. I welcome others' experience with this -- and potential solutions. Toward the very rear end of the mohawk strip it has a lateral tab that is friction fit and glued into a slot on the battery unit. I just forced mine until the plastic gave, in hopes I could defeat the glue bond, but no:

View attachment 1441802
View attachment 1441803

(Sorry for the blurry.)

View attachment 1441804

You can see how the strip fatigued and bent at that tab. I need to find a better way to deal with that, for at least one helmet.

That strip was mostly what locks the helmet halves together. That and these two glued tabs at the back:

View attachment 1441805

Those, at least, are fairly easy to pop apart. I think one of my favorite things about this helmet is that, even though it's engineered so that everything on the final helmet is lined up right, it's still one half overlapping the other, just like the originals:

View attachment 1441806

In the end, apart from that one troublesome tab, the electronics all come out easily as a unit:

View attachment 1441807

...and the helmet interior looks like this:

View attachment 1441808

A lot to play with in there, depending on what one wants to do with it. I'm likely to keep the side pieces of the lining, at least, with mods. The snaps are handy, they help retain the rubber edge strip, the mic mount is convenient, and some form of better earcups can be mounted to them while removed, the whole subassembly being able to just be screwed securely in place. I might see if I can extensively rework the crown lining piece to interact with a less-static visor... A lot depends on how much room is needed for a head and good padding.
Well done, man! It can be quite a pain to get these things apart - and it definitely looks like Hasbro just re-released the helmet again, with no assembly changes. One thing I'd caution on is not using the "stock" liner that screws in... while it may not be accurate to the vac-buckets out there, its pretty much what keeps the helmet hemispheres and mohawk strip in place when it's back together (I'll try to make my folder of videos and photos from my Gold Leader repaint from last year more public so I can actually post it here :p )

The battery pack attachment point for the mohawk strip is also a bit of a temperamental thing to separate, too - you may want to hit that stress point with a hair dryer or heat gun to get it back into shape... I've got an HBS helmet apart now for a Squadrons appearance I'm about to work on, so I'll try heat and/or some solvents to see what will soften-up the glue holding that tab in place and report back in the thread.

One thing I am wondering, though... is how compatible the Galaxy's Edge X-Wing helmet interior is (as far as mounting points go) with the HBS helmet. If the screw-holes align properly, maybe one of those interiors can be put in an HBS (or replicated in some way), as they have articulated visors in those helmets as well as *some* electronics.
 

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