Black series XWing Pilot helmet up for pre-order on Amazon

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Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
One thing I'd caution on is not using the "stock" liner that screws in... while it may not be accurate to the vac-buckets out there, its pretty much what keeps the helmet hemispheres and mohawk strip in place when it's back together
I don't think I'm understanding right... You're saying don't use the liner, but also that it's the only thing holding the bucket together? I feel like where the halves overlap is a good bonding surface for Plastic Welder, reinforced by the (cut down flush) screw posts and retaining clips from the mohawk strip through those holes. I have three of these, only one to build up as the "Rebel" pattern. The other two are going to be Imperial, so I have two mohawks to be a mad scientist with and one where I need to be careful. *lol* For the Rebel one, I think any other flexing will be minimized by leaving the battery pack intact. Even if cut down to the level of the tab, it'll provide a nice reinforcing point at center back.
One thing I am wondering, though... is how compatible the Galaxy's Edge X-Wing helmet interior is (as far as mounting points go) with the HBS helmet. If the screw-holes align properly, maybe one of those interiors can be put in an HBS (or replicated in some way), as they have articulated visors in those helmets as well as *some* electronics.
Isn't the G.E. one ANOVOS? If so, pretty sure the mounting points won't line up. I'm working on more stupidly over-engineered mechanisms for my visors anyway, so I'm not too fussed about being able to use those interiors.
 

DJb1138

Member
I don't think I'm understanding right... You're saying don't use the liner, but also that it's the only thing holding the bucket together? I feel like where the halves overlap is a good bonding surface for Plastic Welder, reinforced by the (cut down flush) screw posts and retaining clips from the mohawk strip through those holes. I have three of these, only one to build up as the "Rebel" pattern. The other two are going to be Imperial, so I have two mohawks to be a mad scientist with and one where I need to be careful. *lol* For the Rebel one, I think any other flexing will be minimized by leaving the battery pack intact. Even if cut down to the level of the tab, it'll provide a nice reinforcing point at center back.

Isn't the G.E. one ANOVOS? If so, pretty sure the mounting points won't line up. I'm working on more stupidly over-engineered mechanisms for my visors anyway, so I'm not too fussed about being able to use those interiors.
Oh - no, man... I wasn't saying to not use the liner at all. It is what's holding the bucket together... I didn't mean to sound confusing at all - I was cautioning against not using the liner. As for the G.E. helmet... I'm not sure if it's Anovos or not, tbh (I haven't seen one in person yet).

I don't think I'm understanding right... You're saying don't use the liner, but also that it's the only thing holding the bucket together? I feel like where the halves overlap is a good bonding surface for Plastic Welder, reinforced by the (cut down flush) screw posts and retaining clips from the mohawk strip through those holes. I have three of these, only one to build up as the "Rebel" pattern. The other two are going to be Imperial, so I have two mohawks to be a mad scientist with and one where I need to be careful. *lol* For the Rebel one, I think any other flexing will be minimized by leaving the battery pack intact. Even if cut down to the level of the tab, it'll provide a nice reinforcing point at center back.

Isn't the G.E. one ANOVOS? If so, pretty sure the mounting points won't line up. I'm working on more stupidly over-engineered mechanisms for my visors anyway, so I'm not too fussed about being able to use those interiors.
Also - using plastic welder on the overlap in the mohawk is not a bad idea at all! ;) Once the strip is back on, that should be alright for holding it together solidly.
 

Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Also - using plastic welder on the overlap in the mohawk is not a bad idea at all! ;) Once the strip is back on, that should be alright for holding it together solidly.
If you don't have any spare buckets to experiment on with that, I'll definitely be showing how it worked with my build. Helmet overlap, mohawk strip, battery pack, mohawk greeble, battery cover, and SFX button. All to be epoxied in place. I'll probably also reinforce those from the inside with plumbing epoxy putty.

Oh! Just remembered the pic I forgot to take last night. Back in a minute...

ETA: Never mind. I forgot how much of the helmet sides I need to cut away to accommodate the side tubes, but the Stormtrooper faceplate looks like a good fit, size and proportion wise.
 
Last edited:

DJb1138

Member
Hey everyone!
I'm at it again with another HBS repaint/conversion... Only this time I'm making a run at one of the appearances from Squadrons - the Bayora Bronze appearance. Like with the Gold Leader helmet, I've shot some videos of my progress through this adventure via my phone (hope the quality isn't too terrible, haha) - and this one is an "adventure", as I'm using an electroplating technique called "brush plating" for this one, so the color you're seeing on all of the external parts is a layer of actual copper metal. I got the idea for taking this route from a YouTube channel called "Infosmercial", where he tried this technique on a 3D printed Phasma helmet... and it seemed to work out pretty well. This project so far hasn't been without it's stumbling blocks and such, but it's rolling ahead fairly well :) I've got a picture below of where the helmet is at (more or less) at the moment, and another Google Drive with videos and more pics - I'll be updating it/uploading more videos as I continue on! Check it out, and let me know what you think!!

Cheers everyone!

Bayora Bronze (Copper Electro-brush plating) HBS Helmet
 

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