Black Series Helmets - whats next after Boba Fett

I'm comparing mine directly with your left picture. Other than some paint differences, and small details, and the thickness of the hood's "apron" sides, they look really, really close to me shape wise. I'm pretty happy with what we got.
Here is my comparison with the EFX. The Black Series helmet is so small I cant even wear it. If I move my jaw at all the magnets break apart. That's the biggest problem with it not having a neck plus all the space the electronics and magnets take up.

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Thank you for those. I still don't see a huge amount of difference. The small details yes, but overall it looks pretty close. I'd also like to see it next to an ESB/RotJ version.

Everyone's different size wise :/ I have a pretty big head and I have a lot of room back and forth, although my cheeks do almost get caught between the magnets. It's comfortable on me.
 
The black chin grill is called the vocoder, on the OT helmets it was raised ridges molded into the faceplate. On the R1 helmets it appeared to be tubes that are raised from the surface and attach at the other end. I believe on the BS helmet they are ridges, not tubes separate from the surface. This makes this feature more OT style where other parts are more R1 style.
I wanted to make sure. You said "vocoder tubes". I wanted to make sure you weren't referring to the aerators. While the R1's are more pronounced (too much so to look good, I feel), with the reference lineage piece in my other hand to compare when I was sanding the surface of the HBS and preparing to cut the vocoder (I call it the annunciator -- vocoders are something different) grille out, the HBS has a sharper, clearer delineation between grille and faceplate chin, both have the grille stand out respectably from the surface, but no, the HBS doesn't stick out as far as the R1.

I'd recommend cut out and replacement, anyway, though, because a drop-in detail from behind is more film-accurate to the Anthology Stormtrooper helmet. Along with cutting out the tube stripes in the right locations with nice sharp edges and backing the openings off with blue-anodized aluminum strip. And other things, but I'll stop there. Point is, it's not dead-on to anything out of the box, just like all the HBS helmets, but with work can be made more accurate either way to (idealized) OT or R1.
 
Loved seeing those side by side pictures. The BS Vader is my first and only Vader helmet (for the moment as I needed to flesh out my new-ish Star Wars collection) and I found it enormous when I got it. Weird seeing that it’s actually undersized.
This is an item I will absolutely have to upgrade sooner than later.
 
Thank you for those. I still don't see a huge amount of difference. The small details yes, but overall it looks pretty close. I'd also like to see it next to an ESB/RotJ version.

Everyone's different size wise :/ I have a pretty big head and I have a lot of room back and forth, although my cheeks do almost get caught between the magnets. It's comfortable on me.
Not a direct comparison. This image is of my Quasimodo ESB Vader taken from a comparison with the EFX. I tried to match it up as closely as I could but it's not perfect. The Quasi is a little smaller than the EFX. Perspective is a little off as it's taken about a foot further back than the Black Series.

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Thank you for those. I still don't see a huge amount of difference. The small details yes, but overall it looks pretty close. I'd also like to see it next to an ESB/RotJ version.

Everyone's different size wise :/ I have a pretty big head and I have a lot of room back and forth, although my cheeks do almost get caught between the magnets. It's comfortable on me.

No personal disrespect towards you. We all have opinions.

Are you sure you're looking at the same helmets as we are?
 
Well the face definitely looks bigger like the triangle.

The B.S. eyes and dome brow are over exaggerated making Vader look peeved off. The film sculpt has more of a netural expression. The walls of the mouth vent bend inward considerably when they should slightly bend outward. Aside from the straight on view of the mouth and cheeks the film sculpt has more length and width in every other aspect.
 
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So is anyone planning to get the prototype Boba Fett and repainting it? Can anyone walk me through a little of what I should do? I was thinking bondo the battle damage, and then just go at it with some spray paint?
 
So is anyone planning to get the prototype Boba Fett and repainting it? Can anyone walk me through a little of what I should do? I was thinking bondo the battle damage, and then just go at it with some spray paint?
I have one on pre-order now, just to compare to regular. From what I'm experiencing with the standard Boba, the molded-in damage is proving pleasantly shallow...

• Sand the surface with ~220-240 grit to give a nice surface for the paint to grab. Sand until all the shine is knocked off, but don't worry about not being able to get everywhere.
• I use Rust-Oleum's automotive filler primer -- at least three coats -- to build things up enough to fill the shallower defects.
• Then I sand that back down and fill any remaining flaws with Bondo's spot putty (the rust-colored stuff).
• Sand again.
• One more coat of filler primer.
• Sand with 400 to make it nice and smooth.
• Then, for a white Supertrooper helmet, white primer, followed by Rust-Oleum's Professional Grade white. I'm not sure about all the colors, but white and black, at least, have ground up ABS dissolved in suspension. Paint three coats, five minutes apart, and then don't touch it for a week to let it cure. When done, you'll basically have coated the thing painted in ABS plastic. Here's a fiberglass Scout helmet painted with it:

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It's a little fiddly, but for the turn signals, you can tape off the openings and paint them afterward. Or, like me, you can grind away the inside of the dome at that spot until the back wall of each inset is gone and back them off with some appropriately-painted scrap plastic.

Further, I personally plan to do all the initial priming disassembled to make sanding more convenient. Then after all the spot putty is sanded back off, reassemble the dome liner to the dome, then glue the lower main helmet pieces to the dome, then glue on the earcap substrates, and putty and sand those seams. After painting, then go ahead and put the visor and lower interior pieces back in. Probably more involved than you wanted, but the result is cleaner and more durable. If you're not doing serious modding, like me, then it should only take a several days to a week for all the prep work. Biggest time-eater is having to wait for the various paint apps to cure enough to go on to the next step.
 

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I have one on pre-order now, just to compare to regular. From what I'm experiencing with the standard Boba, the molded-in damage is proving pleasantly shallow...

• Sand the surface with ~220-240 grit to give a nice surface for the paint to grab. Sand until all the shine is knocked off, but don't worry about not being able to get everywhere.
• I use Rust-Oleum's automotive filler primer -- at least three coats -- to build things up enough to fill the shallower defects.
• Then I sand that back down and fill any remaining flaws with Bondo's spot putty (the rust-colored stuff).
• Sand again.
• One more coat of filler primer.
• Sand with 400 to make it nice and smooth.
• Then, for a white Supertrooper helmet, white primer, followed by Rust-Oleum's Professional Grade white. I'm not sure about all the colors, but white and black, at least, have ground up ABS dissolved in suspension. Paint three coats, five minutes apart, and then don't touch it for a week to let it cure. When done, you'll basically have coated the thing painted in ABS plastic. Here's a fiberglass Scout helmet painted with it:



It's a little fiddly, but for the turn signals, you can tape off the openings and paint them afterward. Or, like me, you can grind away the inside of the dome at that spot until the back wall of each inset is gone and back them off with some appropriately-painted scrap plastic.

Further, I personally plan to do all the initial priming disassembled to make sanding more convenient. Then after all the spot putty is sanded back off, reassemble the dome liner to the dome, then glue the lower main helmet pieces to the dome, then glue on the earcap substrates, and putty and sand those seams. After painting, then go ahead and put the visor and lower interior pieces back in. Probably more involved than you wanted, but the result is cleaner and more durable. If you're not doing serious modding, like me, then it should only take a several days to a week for all the prep work. Biggest time-eater is having to wait for the various paint apps to cure enough to go on to the next step.


Great thank you! So the rustoleum is like a filler spray on?
 
Great thank you! So the rustoleum is like a filler spray on?
Yeah. It's this stuff. Can usually find it at any Walmart in the car-things section, and many other automotive shops. Main reason I recommend it specifically is it is generally recommended to not mix brands, and most of the specific colors or finishes I get in rattlecan form have been Rustoleum for a while now.
 
Probably not the most original thought but I'd be down for a Biggs repaint of the X-Wing helmet.

Yes, yes, we all know Wedge was the man, but Biggs helmet was far cooler IMO. :)
 
Given the choice of what I would actually buy? I'd like to see either a First Order Stormtrooper or the Mandalorian. Given they just did Boba Fett, the latter might be a stretch, but who knows?
 
I’d be thrilled with a Biker Scout or Mandelorian. I don’t see them doing a Snowtrooper unless it’s the higher ranking “hard face” version.
I would love a Snowtrooper Commander. I'd be concerned they will shorten how long it is though if they were to make one.
 
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