Black Series Boba Fett Helmet Announced

9ADB5AFC-EE37-44FE-BAEB-F3B9E90EE54A.jpeg

these pads are fantastic
 
... I did also order this helmet liner:

View attachment 1298984
I just wanted something with a bit more color scheme and visual interest to supplement the in-universe feel that Hasbro (white shadow or *riddell) started... maybe even match the fabric (or remake) the rear padding so it actually hits the neck and creates support while the helmet is on.

should arrive next week. Once I put it in I’ll share my commentary/review.

*edit*
weird, thought I had the link here. This is the liner off Amazon
Amazon.com : Tactical Airsoft Helmet Pads FMA Internal Foam Protective Cushion Accessories Liner System for Fast MT MICH IBH AF ACH Outdoor Airsoft Helmet : Sports & Outdoors

I considered that liner as well before I placed my order. But with with the other type. If you are getting the padding because your head it to large for the supplied liner, then my tip to you is to put in the front section first and try it on, you may not need more. If you need more, then do the mid section. As you can see from my last image I posted, I only needed a few well place pads for it to fit well. Too many pads and it made it too small and/or forced it to be worn smashed against my nose.
 
Agreed. You want it to sit as far forward as possible for the screen accurate look.

Additionally when I had my helmet on with no liner, it of course wobbled and it set too low and could not see out the visor properly. You would think based on that, I would need a pad at the crown. However I found that just by using only pads around the front half, it allowed the helmet to set higher on my head and I could see out of it with the helmet at a leveled position. I did experiment with the crown pad installed but when worn, it forced me to tilt the front of the helmet down so that I could see out of it properly and also pressed the visor against my nose.
 
3F8175D7-6CF4-46ED-85FC-8C3F3E5EF94F.jpeg
0E325B46-E6D6-4EFC-BA78-354B53ED983C.jpeg

I don’t know if I’ll be able to recommend the same setup for others; but this is very comfy. I have fairly small head (and no hair) so I was able to shuffle the padding into a format where the back of the neck also has support.
It’s snug, but not tight. And well supported (no wobble)

I’m not disappointed that the detail is covered; it feels correct somehow. I riveted the neck support padding into the plastic interior
 
for those who have taken apart the helmet, how is the top held together, screws and lock tabs and is it easy to remove?

You guys mentioned Rafelfetts's works.
I own his Stalk (hollow inside), Range Finder casing and lens frame, bought from his store at Shapeways.com
But Rafel offers templates of his works if one wants to make them themselves, but you have to search for the templates on TheDentedHelmet


Comparing Rafelworks' stalk kit to EFXs' stalk
The Rafel's stalk is about 3mm shorter at the ring base otherwise rest is same size compared to EFX
The Rafel's Range finder casing is about 1mm overall size bigger, compared to EFX
The Rafel's Lens frame is accurate compared to EFX
If one wants to upgrade Hasbro's Ranger Finder pieces, I think Rafel Works is the best option.
I will post updates if I ever upgrade my Hasbro's RF to Rafel's

Comparison pics
Rafel Works vs EFX
LgcpNbuC_o.jpg

A9gNkf4V_o.jpg

yMI1uChw_o.jpg

cIePSXin_o.jpg

yebWSgsi_o.jpg

ZjhentM9_o.jpg

MmId7iSZ_o.jpg


Hasbro's stalk is shorter and slightly different shape and RF case design is slightly different compared to Rafel's works.

M5brmlNG_o.jpg

DCKL6lRP_o.jpg

eikf4R1r_o.jpg

LKKXeaNn_o.jpg

DtDgA3Mf_o.jpg
 
Last edited:
how is the top held together, screws and lock tabs and is it easy to remove?
If you mean the outer and inner dome, eight screws -- two flanking each tension catch holding the lower to the upper. The front four can be removed without removing the lower part of the helmet, but the rear four need the rear skirt piece popped off. If you mean to remove the lower portion of the helmet from the upper, it's six tension latches -- two front-left and front-right, two rear-left and rear-right, plus one each center-front and center-back that are augmented with screws. I'f you've removed the helmet liner pieces already, you've taken care of that, though.

Regarding the rangefinder assembly, there are three things going on with the r/f stalk.
- The stalk itself is ~5mm too short.
- The stalk is seated in the upper earcap housing ~5mm too low.
- The upper earcap base is a couple millimeters too low on the helmet -- I'm presently deep into sorting out how best to address this.

I figure it's only fair that for how effortless the rest of the thing is to work with, there has to be one major headache.
 
I think Hasbro did a great job and if you want it to be more accurate then you have to decide which of the multiple screen-used helmets you want it to reflect. For me, it's close enough, especially compared to my old 90's Don Post haha. The mods are looking great though, keep up the good work!
 
Found about 8 at a local Walmart. Second one I opened had straight yellow lines so I bought it. I think the rest of the paint apps turned out pretty well. Happy with the location of the "cat scratch". And the connector sticks out pretty far.

Gonna cancel my GameStop pre-order first chance I get.
 

Attachments

  • 20200520_001651.jpg
    20200520_001651.jpg
    614.2 KB · Views: 225
If you mean the outer and inner dome, eight screws -- two flanking each tension catch holding the lower to the upper. The front four can be removed without removing the lower part of the helmet, but the rear four need the rear skirt piece popped off. If you mean to remove the lower portion of the helmet from the upper, it's six tension latches -- two front-left and front-right, two rear-left and rear-right, plus one each center-front and center-back that are augmented with screws. I'f you've removed the helmet liner pieces already, you've taken care of that, though.

Regarding the rangefinder assembly, there are three things going on with the r/f stalk.
- The stalk itself is ~5mm too short.
- The stalk is seated in the upper earcap housing ~5mm too low.
- The upper earcap base is a couple millimeters too low on the helmet -- I'm presently deep into sorting out how best to address this.

I figure it's only fair that for how effortless the rest of the thing is to work with, there has to be one major headache.

yeap, I was referring to the dome. thx

anyways, have you taken apart the stalk and range finder casing? if so, how, any tips?
cause its glued and I'm afraid to break it. But I think there might be a screw inside holding other parts together.

I only plan to swap the stalk/rf with Rafel's parts. Then see if I have the skills to repaint the whole right ear. And maybe remove the button feature and move the stalk manualy by hand like EFX
 
have you taken apart the stalk and range finder casing? if so, how, any tips?
cause its glued and I'm afraid to break it. But I think there might be a screw inside holding other parts together.
I honestly have only tried very casually to get that apart. It's all inaccurate enough I wasn't planning on using it, except mayby on an underscaled helmet.
I only plan to swap the stalk/rf with Rafel's parts. Then see if I have the skills to repaint the whole right ear. And maybe remove the button feature and move the stalk manualy by hand like EFX
So far I've dismantled the whole earcap and largely finished the demolition stage. All the unneeded bits have been cut off our ground out, the portion that frames the r/f stalk has been cut from the cap and relocated to the base. I've partially gone on to the reconstruction stage. The outer cap is largely finished. The trigger button has been glued in flush, the facing piece has been glued in, and I'm working on cleanup and re-shaping. Only main steps there are getting the rare-earth magnets that are going to hold it on, and then gluing them in place before covering over the whole inner surface with a layer of .010" sheet styrene to keep the magnets from getting pulled out and to give it a nice clean appearance.

I'm mainly stuck into figuring out how the hell to best resolve the positioning of the upper earcap base. I can't shift the upper part of the backer piece up any, so I have to sort out the cleanest way to do that with the base piece before I get too far into the rest of the modding and cleanup of it. I did decide to go with Hyperdyne's servo kit and electronics, so that's getting factored in, too. I'll probably be posting an update over in my mod thread tomorrow and/or Friday.
 
Got mine last night, pretty great for the price.

Here's a very very rough mock up of the voice changer I'm going to install. More proof of concept than any incredible output/use expectations. But will design a smaller enclosure and removable connectors so i can upgrade it later..

Photo May 21, 1 07 09 PM.jpg
 
Awesome job, Liam. What kind and/or brand of paint marker did you use? And is it just the normal silver or maybe the metallic silver color for the marker that you're using? I know BBRogers said he used a silver sharpie so I was wondering what you used since the added silver paint on each of your helmets really makes them shine (no pun intended!)
 
Finally, FINALLY had mine arrive yesterday. Paint is all more or less where it should be, stripes are more or less straight....ish. instead of boring "helpful" comparison pictures though, I thought I'd post tragi-comic ones instead. Amazing how far we've come since the mid '90s for the same price point. Anyways, only mods will be silver paint pen (just remains to be seen if I can match that sweet, attention-to-details Don Post paint application) and removing the hard hat liner...because it's terrible. I've got a tiny pin head, and it still doesn't fit right. Only question now is what to do with that DP standard...apart from maybe drop-kicking for distance:unsure:
 

Attachments

  • 20200527_080521.jpg
    20200527_080521.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 299
  • 20200527_080437.jpg
    20200527_080437.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 288
  • 20200527_080337.jpg
    20200527_080337.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 280
  • 20200527_080243.jpg
    20200527_080243.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 277
Last edited:
This thread is more than 3 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top