Black Series Boba Fett Helmet Announced

So....got my Hasbro bucket also today.First I must say...for this price the helmet is a no brainer.What a nice helmet for this low price.
I also got one with no paintflaws and other wrong things.Thanks god! :D

And like I promised I made a direct comparison to my new EFX Bobahelmet.Hope you like it.

For the first start a overall look both helmets together:

The BS has a lot darker and dull look.And its a little bit smaller.Visor on the Hasbro is wider.

38532032ax.jpg


38532034wb.jpg


38532035ni.jpg


38532036le.jpg



And now the details.From the distance the weathering of the hasbro looks also very good.But if you get closer...you see how much sharper the details are on the EFX.

38532063kz.jpg


38532065va.jpg


38532066fk.jpg


Next is the port...the EFX is raised...the Hasbro not.

38532085ec.jpg


And the top of the rangefinder...Hasbro has smaller and clear looking LEDs.The Hasbros rangefinder feels very cheap because all is made from plastic.

38532088sm.jpg



Ok...like I said..the Hasbro is so nice for the money and a very good Boba Fett helmet.I love it also for the electric effects.
But the EFX is another level from the accurate point with a lot sharper details+paintjob,better size+visorsize and metal ears+rangefinder.
Is it worth to pay more for an EFX?I say yes because it looks and feels more like a real prop.
But its also not wrong to go the Hasbro way.With some mods this helmet can also be a superb Bobahelmet.I will not mod mine because I have the EFX also.But would be happy to see some nice mods in the future.
 
The only thing I don't like on the Hasbro are the paint colors. It appears almost gray in person, to me anyway. Everything is too muted.

I see these helmets in a category of roleplay, but I like how good they look. Darth Vader was especially one I bought as a display piece (but I really have fun putting it on).

Do you think that if you showed the Black Series Darth Vader to someone who has NO interest in props (and especially no idea that Vader had one gunmetal cheek etc), they might think it's a higher priced collectible?
 
People with no interest in props would think THIS is an accurate Vaderhelmet. :D


38532497qh.jpg


I think this people are not the point here.The way from this Vaderhelmet to my ESB authentic cast helmet was over 15 Years.
With the time you know more and more about the props...become new contacts.Thats the hobby.People with no interest in props will never go this route.So this peoples opinion is not important for me.
 
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Just a follow up to my post regarding the adding of interior padding.

I have been playing around with what pads to take out and which ones to leave in to get the fit I like. As you saw in my previous post, I had the padding for the crown, front, and all sides installed. I only needed to remove the rear pad for it to fit well.

However one thing I noticed was that my nose was pressed against front of the helmet. At the time I did not think much about it as I have a pointy nose and it presses against the stormtrooper helmet as well. One thing I did notice was that I was wearing the helmet at a slight tilt forward in order to see out the eye slit.

I started removing pads to see which pads I needed to make it fit straight but yet firmly on my head. What I discovered was that I only needed five pieces of the padding installed to get a good fit that allows it to sit more level and not press on my nose.

I only appear to need padding at the direct sides, forward side, and forward of the helmet. here is an image of the interior now.

2AC3006B-9F07-43BD-AC15-C56D66F2BECE.jpeg


Hope this helps.
 
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Well I got mine today. Absolutely amazing helmet for the money. My stripes are bang on, and I have no paint placement issues, this is spectacular for the money they cost.

Well done Hasbro. Next stop Mandolorian;)

Lee
 
Kroenen77 said:
People with no interest in props would think THIS is an accurate Vaderhelmet. :D


View attachment 1298379

I think this people are not the point here.The way from this Vaderhelmet to my ESB authentic cast helmet was over 15 Years.
With the time you know more and more about the props...become new contacts.Thats the hobby.People with no interest in props will never go this route.So this peoples opinion is not important for me.
Click to expand...

I did was I was 12yrs old
 
Kroenen77, thanks for the direct comparison. I had just noticed when I went to cut out the left-tusk notch that printing out the template at 1:1 scale it was a little too big -- also, the damage around the notch was located wrong. That put me back to checking my data-points. Could you take some measurements? Just a few of the basics: dome base circumference (eliminating the right upper earcap as much as possible), height of the rear skirting at center-back, length of the "tusks", and front-to-back measurements of the earcaps.

The Hasbro earcaps are a dead match in size with my lineage cast parts from Asok. The Rubies helmet earcaps are the same in all dimensions but the height of the right-upper -- it stands almost two millimeters taller. The eFX earcaps look overall larger than the Hasbro.

The back skirting looks about the same length at the keyslots.

The tusks on the eFX look longer, and the cheeks angled more sharply down toward the front -- can't tell how much is camera angle and how much is absolute.

As for the connector on the right cheek... I hadn't realized the eFX's was just a plant-on. All the pictures I've seen of the original helmets have the connector in exactly the same spot and orientation, all the way back to the Super Trooper, under construction. I feel like it was part of the original mould, and so a cast-in detail. The real connector is stainless steel and has a long main shaft before the retaining collar. Cutting it down would work, but I don't know they would have taken the time and trouble to grind the bevels back into the holes. But I stand with moulded in or stuck through from inside, if done well. Not just stuck on the outside. I can see under the edge of the eFX connector. And it's standing too tall from the cheekplate. I'm curious about how the connector is sitting in your Hasbro. Mine, when seated against the inside of the cheekplate, stands about a millimeter or less out from the surface, but it's not flush.
 
The more I see of these comparisons, the more I really want to repaint the whole thing. Am I crazy?

I think it could be kinda fun...chipping away at it every weekend
 
Well mine is going back to Amazon - very crooked kill stripes - replacement gets here Monday - hopefully this ones better
 
Inquisitor Peregrinus said:
Kroenen77, thanks for the direct comparison. I had just noticed when I went to cut out the left-tusk notch that printing out the template at 1:1 scale it was a little too big -- also, the damage around the notch was located wrong. That put me back to checking my data-points. Could you take some measurements? Just a few of the basics: dome base circumference (eliminating the right upper earcap as much as possible), height of the rear skirting at center-back, length of the "tusks", and front-to-back measurements of the earcaps.

The Hasbro earcaps are a dead match in size with my lineage cast parts from Asok. The Rubies helmet earcaps are the same in all dimensions but the height of the right-upper -- it stands almost two millimeters taller. The eFX earcaps look overall larger than the Hasbro.

The back skirting looks about the same length at the keyslots.

The tusks on the eFX look longer, and the cheeks angled more sharply down toward the front -- can't tell how much is camera angle and how much is absolute.

As for the connector on the right cheek... I hadn't realized the eFX's was just a plant-on. All the pictures I've seen of the original helmets have the connector in exactly the same spot and orientation, all the way back to the Super Trooper, under construction. I feel like it was part of the original mould, and so a cast-in detail. The real connector is stainless steel and has a long main shaft before the retaining collar. Cutting it down would work, but I don't know they would have taken the time and trouble to grind the bevels back into the holes. But I stand with moulded in or stuck through from inside, if done well. Not just stuck on the outside. I can see under the edge of the eFX connector. And it's standing too tall from the cheekplate. I'm curious about how the connector is sitting in your Hasbro. Mine, when seated against the inside of the cheekplate, stands about a millimeter or less out from the surface, but it's not flush.
Click to expand...


That with the port is an interesting thing.Yes your right its a lot too long on the EFX.But its very easy to remove.So I could cast it in resin and sand it down in the future.

38539246em.jpg


On my BS its also not really complete flush.Thinks it looks right...but the position is wrong.Must I build the complete helmet apart to correct it?

38539252mi.jpg


But another question is: Is the part designed right on both helmets?Look at this shot of the real helmet.I can see only 2 holes in the port..one bigger and a small one.But Hasbro and EFX has 3 holes?

38539268ji.jpg


But the ROTJ helmet has the 3 holes:

38539279ya.jpg
 
3 holes is correct. Mine doesn't bother me, but I wouldn't replace my EFX Borden, I'd maybe ream out the hole a little so I could push the Borden connector flush. That is a much easier solution. I am leaving mine alone though.
I am more bothered that both of my BS helmets have issues with crooked tampos. I'm not sure which is worse..the slanted kill stripes or the cat scratch being high on one of mine and way too high on the other. Oh well, for $120 I shouldn't worry.
 
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I started adding some details...hadn't planned on it but figured what the heck.
I added some rust to the stalk, added paint to help " lower" the cat scratch. Added some of the SE black marks and white paint details around the kills stripes and did 1 light wash. I will do another wash and continue adding scrapes over the weekend.
 

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I’ve modded mine a bit , just with a silver sharpie so far....

connected the cat scratch weathering and some other mismatched areas.

Added reflective details to the sharp corners on the ears and rear slots, cheekbones and bottom edges,etc.

Defined the cracks in the dent.
Makes it feel less plastic and more metallic looking overall I think.

B5A4D77D-9E45-4497-B148-63B611D1B508.jpeg
 
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... I did also order this helmet liner:

83961003-53DB-402A-A058-75A495273310.jpeg

I just wanted something with a bit more color scheme and visual interest to supplement the in-universe feel that Hasbro (white shadow or *riddell) started... maybe even match the fabric (or remake) the rear padding so it actually hits the neck and creates support while the helmet is on.

should arrive next week. Once I put it in I’ll share my commentary/review.

*edit*
weird, thought I had the link here. This is the liner off Amazon
Amazon.com : Tactical Airsoft Helmet Pads FMA Internal Foam Protective Cushion Accessories Liner System for Fast MT MICH IBH AF ACH Outdoor Airsoft Helmet : Sports & Outdoors
 
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BRRogers said:
... I did also order this helmet liner:

View attachment 1298984
I just wanted something with a bit more color scheme and visual interest to supplement the in-universe feel that Hasbro (white shadow or *riddell) started... maybe even match the fabric (or remake) the rear padding so it actually hits the neck and creates support while the helmet is on.

should arrive next week. Once I put it in I’ll share my commentary/review
Click to expand...
Where did you get your liner? I was thinking about doing the same with my bucket.
 
Kroenen77 said:
That with the port is an interesting thing.Yes your right its a lot too long on the EFX.But its very easy to remove.So I could cast it in resin and sand it down in the future.

View attachment 1298779

On my BS its also not really complete flush.Thinks it looks right...but the position is wrong.Must I build the complete helmet apart to correct it?

View attachment 1298780

But another question is: Is the part designed right on both helmets?Look at this shot of the real helmet.I can see only 2 holes in the port..one bigger and a small one.But Hasbro and EFX has 3 holes?

View attachment 1298781

But the ROTJ helmet has the 3 holes:

View attachment 1298782
Click to expand...
What did you do to remove the connector on the EFX? I wasn't sure how without damaging the helmet. I want to replace it with a real one.

Edit: Nevermind. Just pushed it out with a screwdriver. Comes clean off.
 
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