SawbonesAdmiral
Active Member
You're getting the lights and clear parts (not included with the standard version), and a small booklet/photobook.
Bandai release schedule
- Thread starter TazMan2000
- Start date
You're getting the lights and clear parts (not included with the standard version), and a small booklet/photobook.
basementdweller
Active Member
I just assumed most of clear parts are clear replacement parts instead of an opaque colour so you can light it without the use of fiberobtics(!). I would hope they did some simple lightpiping to properly spread the light inside from fewer lightsources and added some diffusers, but that wouldn't be near as much work to fashion as routing fibers. Other than that I'd imagine it's up to you to mask/drill the clear. However I am just assuming. The bay area looks to be made in the way you are describing with clear parts that go on after painting.
SirSandalot
Active Member
I know but how do the clear parts work? Have they announced anything about it?
Oh I see. That's another possibility I didn't think of. I was just assuming too.
Well however they use the clear parts, I just hope that for an extra $50 they'll provide us with an easy solution that will spare us the tedious work of fiber optics.
SawbonesAdmiral
Active Member
2 of the sprues have been molded in clear and are packed in addition to the standard sprues. It's up to you to mask and paint.
SirSandalot
Active Member
Oooooh I see. Thanks. I couldn't find that in their website.
So I'm assuming the LEDs illuminate the whole model (or big areas of it) from the inside and you just mask the tiny bits that you want to remain clear, right? What do you guys think? Also, do you think the price is justified knowing this?
You're missing one important detail - in gunpla fandom many folks buy particular models not because they liked the show, but because they think that this mech looks cool. They might get attached to the hobby by Wing or Universal Century, but then started to build whatever has caught their eyes. SW case is quite the opposite - I'm pretty sure almost everyone buys kits because they love the movies.
Also, you forgot to mention that less popular or particularly old gundam kits get reprints once in a blue moon. In part it is caused by the sheer overall number of gunpla kits, but it's also clear as day that newer or more popular models takes priority - it's easy to find almost ten years old MG Nu and sazabi ver Ka kits, while in case of simmilarily old hguc Dra-C it might take several months to years to get an reprint (been there done that). Not sure how it looks in SW case, but from my personal experience the only time I've got problem to order anything from SW line-up, was when I tried to track PG Falcon in reasonable price. Maybe that new droid lineup is problematic along with the sequel stuff, but I wasnt interested enough to follow them up.
ANYWAY, does anybody knows if there are any EU-based shops taking preorders on ISD kits? Shipping cost from amazon.com are killing me.
Dmitriy311
New Member
[QUOTE = "SirSandalot, сообщение: 4650036, участник: 178647"]
Ооооо, я вижу. Благодарю. Я не мог найти это на их сайте.
Итак, я предполагаю, что светодиоды освещают всю модель (или ее большие области) изнутри, и вы просто маскируете крошечные кусочки, которые вы хотите оставить четкими, не так ли? Что, вы парни, думаете? Кроме того, вы думаете, что цена оправдана, зная это?
[/ QUOTE]
Ооооо, я вижу. Благодарю. Я не мог найти это на их сайте.
Итак, я предполагаю, что светодиоды освещают всю модель (или ее большие области) изнутри, и вы просто маскируете крошечные кусочки, которые вы хотите оставить четкими, не так ли? Что, вы парни, думаете? Кроме того, вы думаете, что цена оправдана, зная это?
[/ QUOTE]
I think it will be easier to paint, and then on transparent parts with a 0.2 mm drill bit to make a hole in the paint to enlightenment. think this will be easier, than to do masks 0.2 mm
SirSandalot
Active Member
That's what I'd do to the standard version, then put some clear acrylic or something translucent beneath the holes so that I don't have to go through the mess of fiber optics.
I was asking what you guys think because I just don't get it. I don't understand the reason behind the clear parts in the LED version. If it's just the way I described, then I'm more inclined to buy the standard version and just do the same trick saving around $40 (buying cables and LEDs at my local hardware store). To me it's even easier to drill than to mask those tiny windows, too.
Some more pics of the mini SSD:
www.taghobby.com
Hat tip to Changkaishecky.
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www.taghobby.com
Hat tip to Changkaishecky.
The difference is that with the clear parts you only have to drill a tiny bit past the paint. If you take the same approach with the standard version not only do you have to buy the lighting and fit it yourself, you would have to drill straight through the plastic, which wouldn’t have the same lighting effect. I do agree that masking tiny windows is not the way forward.
Dmitriy311
New Member
the fact is that the through hole does not look very good. drilling through and pouring clear lacquer again is not the easiest solution, although it is much easier than fiber optic yarn. transparent parts to drill through is not necessary. it is enough to remove a layer of paint and soil with a drill. we do not need absolute transparency, as for the cockpit of a fighter. but this is my opinion what is needed the transparent part
SirSandalot
Active Member
To drill through plastic as usual is one thing, but to drill dozens of tiny windows with a 0.2mm drill bit, on a finished paintjob (no margin for error), and only past the paint, keeping the clear plastic intact as well as the paintjob... I mean I'm not sure if I'd call that "making things easier for LEDs". Not sure that's a pro or a con honestly. If you make a mistake in the standard version on the other hand, you sand it, or even use filler, then sand it and you're good to go. Plus, although the LED version provides the LEDs, I have experience with LEDs so that's not a factor for me.
I'll keep thinking about it till its release. I still don't know what version I'll get, and even if I get the standard version I'm not sure I want to put lights in it.
I'll keep thinking about it till its release. I still don't know what version I'll get, and even if I get the standard version I'm not sure I want to put lights in it.
basementdweller
Active Member
Take a look at this vehicle model 001 Star Destroyer and think about how he cast his own clear resin parts so he could embed a few leds and make lighting possible. It might help you see clear (badum) - parts in a new light (tish). Sorry I'll see myself out.
Btw it was a big hoohaa much earlier in this thread with lots of discussions and pics on this exact subject.
Jaitea
Master Member
Do you not just spray the clear parts on one side (the models outside) with a light blocking paint,....when happy with the painting & weathering you give the part a light sanding,...if all the raised areas are the circular 'windows', you are left with a fibre optic effect
Thats how I'd manufacture the parts for lighting
J
Thats how I'd manufacture the parts for lighting
J
robn1
Master Member
That would work in theory, but the SS has details that protrude past the windows so there's no way to sand without ruining the detail. Drilling is really the only option at this scale. I'd use the smallest drill bits I can find, like .1mm, and a Dremel that runs on AA batteries set as slow as it will go.
I was just going to use the same technique used on the original Death Star miniature -- paint, and then scrape off where you want the windows with a pin. Tedious? Yes. But more control than drilling and less messy.
SirSandalot
Active Member
Interesting fact! I didn't know that. I'll make a test to see how that looks from up close (Ikea Detolf close).
Tip: don't use acrylic-polyurethane primer if you're gonna use that technique. It's a rubber-ish primer that tends to pull up surrounding material when scratched, so insted of a tiny window you end up with battle damage.
