I’ve been mainly focusing on the P1 details, but, when comparing the auction piece with screencaps of the various P2s (particularly the Nona and Lenore), the discrepancies continue to leap out. The slanted top of the forehead tower (vs. the horizontal tops of the screencapped heroes and midgrades), the side dial not intersecting the P2 shell’s side ribs, the length and thickness of the P1 cradle ribs, etc.
Again, there’s solid evidence that the heroes and midgrades came from the same molds (although the hero mold was presumably modified—or the buck modified and then re-molded—to enlarge the trigger box), and that cutout markings for the drop-in parts (P2 side dial and rear fin cutout, P1 thumbwheel, sight cover) we’re all a part of those molds. You can see the scribed lines for the P1 sight cover and the two original black and white power buttons on some of the surviving midgrades.
So, for example, when all of the known heroes and midgrades have consistent features, likely due to their all coming from the same molds (like the side dial intersecting the side ribs), a new “hero” which does not also share those traits comes off as…suspect.
I agree. The outer shell of both P-I and P-II should match the rest of the phasers, which this does not. I would love to see an attempt to mix and match the right and left halves of the GJ and this auction phaser. I think that would further tell some stories of just how far off this new phaser is.
For me the story that the supposedly "separated at birth" P-I and P-II could just magically fit together isn't much of a revelation. One, if the story was true OF COURSE they should fit together, they were literally designed to do that. Two, you could probably pull off that same magic trick with a Wand Co. phaser or probably a half dozen other replicas.
The more time I spend looking at the P-II internals I just see more discrepancies to the GJ. I think the larger trigger box on the auction phaser was necessary because of a different, larger Hubbell twist lock being used. The P-I release mechanism is also larger, even though you'd expect those were all built at the same time by the same guy to be placed into the phasers.
Which leads me to the metal parts in general. The front nozzles don't physically match, and the auction phaser's weathering on the nozzle looks artificial. The rear fins are thicker stock on the auction phaser, and the cut-out area is much smaller. The trigger is a different size and shape and is installed a fair bit differently when compared to the GJ.
I think in some ways we're still evaluating the appearance of TOS props through the lens forgers like Mark English used to use; that the props were carelessly painted, poorly made, and rough looking, mostly because it seems like his ability to build a prop wasn't as good as his ability to spin a tale. In actuality, I don't think any of the authentic props are nearly as poorly made as the stories would lead you to believe. Yes, several of them have some rough-looking paint jobs, but the underlying craftsmanship is pretty solid.
The hero phaser especially is so intricate and complicated there's no way I can believe they were simply thrown together using random spare parts and poor-quality castings. One of the details that really jumped out to me looking at the P-I is how, on the same piece, you can have thick smears of what look like filler putty under the paint in one spot, and giant air bubbles a quarter of an inch away. I've seen thick, smeared-on putty and air bubbles on some replicas, but never on any authentic phasers.