1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

[Escape068]

Still about two months away from finishing especially with all the engine block and bell work. I still have to build the base which I was thinking of a smaller triangle to shadow the SD along with perimeter lighting around the edges.

Is your 5 x 8 enough to keep the SD from tipping over?

Try the foil for the IR sensors. Because of that I decided to go with the RF dimmer switches. I have them with remote or switches that can be manually adjusted. Not sure which ones I will use.

I got a whole bunch of tubes and rods in all small sizes along with other tiny styrene square strips. I have a couple of pictures of his and yours that I will look to model it after.

hey, thanks brother! the box was just a simple wood thing from Michael's craft store, like 5 bucks. its like a 5x8 about 1.5 deep. I really wanted the same shape as the acrylic base but none to be found. I used this same box on a Pegasus Nautilus model I did for a friend, it works and it was easy to stick the greeblie walls on it rather than a plain box. Have you already examined Invar's pics good? you'll need a sort of guide to get the Evergreen at your hobby store so you don't run into a snag. even having all the Evergreen and a good box of scraps it still took a couple weeks for the engine greeblies. But, it's well worth the effort! :thumbsup Sounds like you're right on my heels at nearing the finish line. I've had a bit of trouble with my two sensors on mine. I turn on the windows and set the brightness, then turn on the engines and try to set that, but its sending a signal to the other sensor and operating both :facepalm So I think I'm going to try to lay aluminum foil over the back of the sensors to try to reflect the signals?

 

[gt350pony66]

AH!!! a triangle...I wish I'd thought of that :facepalm But, too late now. I think it'll be pretty stable. it sits on that acrylic nice but perhaps I should consider something to hold the stand to the base...maybe something that looks like industrial clamps, say 4 of them. A hook on the top and have them go though the box and clipped secure on the underneath of it so it can be separated. I'll do the triangle base for the next one. I've enjoyed this build so much I've decided to do another one in the fall and try to really do a better job of duplicating all the intricate stuff that Invar and Omnius have done. Then I'd probably sell this one. i'll try the foil and see if that cures the problem. it's weird... when everything is on, and I try to dim the windows down, it also dims the engines and the engines start to pulse...like it's picking up the flasher LED feedback for the few red FO I have. maybe if I switch that out to a constant red it'll stop? but the only way the flasher works is when it's on full brightness...strange

Still about two months away from finishing especially with all the engine block and bell work. I still have to build the base which I was thinking of a smaller triangle to shadow the SD along with perimeter lighting around the edges.

Is your 5 x 8 enough to keep the SD from tipping over?

Try the foil for the IR sensors. Because of that I decided to go with the RF dimmer switches. I have them with remote or switches that can be manually adjusted. Not sure which ones I will use.

I got a whole bunch of tubes and rods in all small sizes along with other tiny styrene square strips. I have a couple of pictures of his and yours that I will look to model it after.

 

[Escape068]

Maybe 4 small stainless steel alan wrench or thumb screws to hold down the acrylic base to the box with the nut on the underside of the box.

I was thinking of using a red blinking LED for the FO I have in the command tower to just have those blinking. I may change that LED out tonight.

Not sure why engines are pulsing. Disconnect the blinking LED and see if the engines pulse when you dim them down.

AH!!! a triangle...I wish I'd thought of that :facepalm But, too late now. I think it'll be pretty stable. it sits on that acrylic nice but perhaps I should consider something to hold the stand to the base...maybe something that looks like industrial clamps, say 4 of them. A hook on the top and have them go though the box and clipped secure on the underneath of it so it can be separated. I'll do the triangle base for the next one. I've enjoyed this build so much I've decided to do another one in the fall and try to really do a better job of duplicating all the intricate stuff that Invar and Omnius have done. Then I'd probably sell this one. i'll try the foil and see if that cures the problem. it's weird... when everything is on, and I try to dim the windows down, it also dims the engines and the engines start to pulse...like it's picking up the flasher LED feedback for the few red FO I have. maybe if I switch that out to a constant red it'll stop? but the only way the flasher works is when it's on full brightness...strange

 

[INVAR]

TAlready got the Empire March loaded on the sound module and it plays fine, but the sound quality is off, have to try to re-record till it sounds better. I just pulled the ring tone from my phone. probably should plug in one of the movies and get it off the TV speakers.

I own the extended soundtracks. I can send you an MP3 of the Imperial March and can edit it to fit the time limit you want to set for it.

 

[gt350pony66]

yeah, I was thinking of disconnecting the flasher LED and see what happens. the instructions did say that flashers only work when on full bright. nice as it would be to have them flash, I can live without it. As far as the screws, I like that thought but wasn't sure the acrylic wouldn't crack when trying to drill it. maybe a tiny hook tab on the acrylic and the screw outboard of that through the box only...

Maybe 4 small stainless steel alan wrench or thumb screws to hold down the acrylic base to the box with the nut on the underside of the box.

I was thinking of using a red blinking LED for the FO I have in the command tower to just have those blinking. I may change that LED out tonight.

Not sure why engines are pulsing. Disconnect the blinking LED and see if the engines pulse when you dim them down.

 

[gt350pony66]

hey Invar, nice to hear from you! The way it is now, the sound module has a 20 second limit and the ring tone is just about that long when it plays all the way. it's just the quality of it coming out of the phone isn't so great. I was thinking to do like I've done with my Falcon sounds, just stop watch it on the TV and make a segment fit in the 20 seconds. However I do so appreciate the offer. if I can't make it work, I'll holler at ya :thumbsup

I own the extended soundtracks. I can send you an MP3 of the Imperial March and can edit it to fit the time limit you want to set for it.

 

[Escape068]

I would hand drill with a small bit first and work my way up to the correct size. It should not crack this way.

Most LEDs will work from 9-12 volts with a resistor. It could be that the dimmer is bringing it down below the threshold causing it not to blink. I have some blinking LEDs and will try one tonight to see how low the voltage can be before it does not blink anymore

yeah, I was thinking of disconnecting the flasher LED and see what happens. the instructions did say that flashers only work when on full bright. nice as it would be to have them flash, I can live without it. As far as the screws, I like that thought but wasn't sure the acrylic wouldn't crack when trying to drill it. maybe a tiny hook tab on the acrylic and the screw outboard of that through the box only...

 

[Escape068]

I was thinking of using just the round disc on top of the base that I make with the post coming up through the center of the disc.

Which one......they are slightly different from each other

I have a message into seller to get diameter of each




- - - Updated - - -

They are all 5" in diameter.......so which one is best and are their any others out there?

- - - Updated - - -

They are all 5" in diameter. So which one is best and are there other ones out there?

 

[gt350pony66]

looks similar to mine, maybe same seller? mine is like a 7 inch long oval, the supports are spread out more

I was thinking of using just the round disc on top of the base that I make with the post coming up through the center of the disc.

Which one......they are slightly different from each other

I have a message into seller to get diameter of each


View attachment 787762 View attachment 787763 View attachment 787764

- - - Updated - - -

They are all 5" in diameter.......so which one is best and are their any others out there?

- - - Updated - - -

They are all 5" in diameter. So which one is best and are there other ones out there?

- - - Updated - - -

I'd still be wary of drilling it

I was thinking of using just the round disc on top of the base that I make with the post coming up through the center of the disc.

Which one......they are slightly different from each other

I have a message into seller to get diameter of each


View attachment 787762 View attachment 787763 View attachment 787764

- - - Updated - - -

They are all 5" in diameter.......so which one is best and are their any others out there?

- - - Updated - - -

They are all 5" in diameter. So which one is best and are there other ones out there?

- - - Updated - - -

I guess that might be the way to do it, tiny bit and work up to whatever size...

I would hand drill with a small bit first and work my way up to the correct size. It should not crack this way.

Most LEDs will work from 9-12 volts with a resistor. It could be that the dimmer is bringing it down below the threshold causing it not to blink. I have some blinking LEDs and will try one tonight to see how low the voltage can be before it does not blink anymore

 

[Escape068]

He has yours also but I want the round one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/acrylic-di...297672?hash=item3af2b8c1c8:g:nO0AAOSwp0NZzVAw

I'm going to drill a 1/2 hole in the center of mine to accept the post.

I like them in the order listed

looks similar to mine, maybe same seller? mine is like a 7 inch long oval, the supports are spread out more

- - - Updated - - -

I'd still be wary of drilling it

- - - Updated - - -

I guess that might be the way to do it, tiny bit and work up to whatever size...

 

[gt350pony66]

Yeah, of the three, I like the first then second but not the third

He has yours also but I want the round one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/acrylic-di...297672?hash=item3af2b8c1c8:g:nO0AAOSwp0NZzVAw

I'm going to drill a 1/2 hole in the center of mine to accept the post.

I like them in the order listed

 

[Escape068]

I'm leaning towards the second one because with a hole drilled in the center you will not be able to see through that spot. I messaged the seller and he said for a large hole it was better he drilled it......for something small you have to be careful but it can be done. He said he uses drill bits made for acrylic

Yeah, of the three, I like the first then second but not the third

 

[gt350pony66]

so you're talking about the one that's clear in the center?

I'm leaning towards the second one because with a hole drilled in the center you will not be able to see through that spot. I messaged the seller and he said for a large hole it was better he drilled it......for something small you have to be careful but it can be done. He said he uses drill bits made for acrylic

 

[Escape068]

The second picture with it frosted in the center so when a hole is drilled you will not see it through the glass........

so you're talking about the one that's clear in the center?

 

[Escape068]

Just tested a 3mm blinking LED (only had white) with a 470 ohm resistor...... I was able to lower voltage down to 2.5 volts and it still blinked. Maybe you should get some new LEDs. I need to order some Red LEDs and re-test but I think the red will work the same way........

Just rec'd the remote RF dimmer switches and they work great. Their are 10 levels of dimming and 3 preset buttons 100%, 50% and 25%

You should get 2.......one for the engines and one for the main lights. Unfortunately you will have to use 2 small remotes but they work great. It remembers the last setting after you power off. You can actually make the LEDs blink and adjust the blink rate.

I bought 5 for under $20

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-12V-Min...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I also have the other ones with the remote and they work the same way but you have to press buttons on each controller to change setting. I bought 10 for $10

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Mini-R...var=413008298574&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[gt350pony66]

Ah, you are the master on this stuff...gotta hand it to ya. I think I'll go that route on the next one. I'll live with this one as is. I haven't tested the foil yet but I'm about to. Just sat down at the laptop to see if anyone had posted. Kinda seems like just you and me lately, don't know what our other builders are doing and not that our stuff isn't cool, enough... but I'm dyin to see what the other guys are up to. Heck, I love seeing what everyones doingopcorn. Well, I'm off to try the foil thing. Let you know what happened tomorrow. Have a good one buddy, talk with you later:thumbsup

Just tested a 3mm blinking LED (only had white) with a 470 ohm resistor...... I was able to lower voltage down to 2.5 volts and it still blinked. Maybe you should get some new LEDs. I need to order some Red LEDs and re-test but I think the red will work the same way........

Just rec'd the remote RF dimmer switches and they work great. Their are 10 levels of dimming and 3 preset buttons 100%, 50% and 25%

You should get 2.......one for the engines and one for the main lights. Unfortunately you will have to use 2 small remotes but they work great. It remembers the last setting after you power off. You can actually make the LEDs blink and adjust the blink rate.

I bought 5 for under $20

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-12V-Min...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I also have the other ones with the remote and they work the same way but you have to press buttons on each controller to change setting. I bought 10 for $10

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Mini-R...var=413008298574&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

[Escape068]

Some up to date progress pictures on the finished sub-assemblies. This will enable me to prime and basecoat them separately. I will then assemble and just have to paint the trench and front top seam. Still waiting for some items to arrive on Friday so I can set the electronics up in the center. Will be starting the engine block greeblie upgrades tonight.

 

[gt350pony66]

Bravo! Very neat and tidy...unlike mine LOL, I like the FO and LED junctions...very clean. I think I figured out what the problem was with my dimmer. Both sensors were hooked into the same power line. I took and plugged the engines into a separate battery and that cured it, the foil did nothing. But the thing now is, to see if I can up stream the power on the same battery without it doing the same thing. I suppose a second battery wouldn't be bad but I'd have to install a second power cutoff button so the sensors don't drain the second battery. I'm off work today so I'm going to dive into it shortly. Keep those pics coming, sure is looking good :thumbsup

Some up to date progress pictures on the finished sub-assemblies. This will enable me to prime and basecoat them separately. I will then assemble and just have to paint the trench and front top seam. Still waiting for some items to arrive on Friday so I can set the electronics up in the center. Will be starting the engine block greeblie upgrades tonight.

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View attachment 787905

 

[INVAR]

The clean is good. I like how it appears he has glued hollow styrene tubes holding the fiber to the inside hull. VERY industrious! I will likely give that a try myself whenever I get done trudging through these endless months of greeblie detailing.

 

[gt350pony66]

The upstream connection worked, no more interference between sensors. Finished the stand, have upper and lower taped together looking for light leaks. Found a one place to the rear of the port tie hangar where there wasn't enough trench wall so I cut a sliver to fill it in. Just looking at the PE sheet, the parts that fit in the trench cut out and the tie hangar opening (the fork parts) are, obviously too short, so I think since the contact areas are more to the top, I'm going to cut the lower part of the PE pieces off, install the upper as the bigger item, then stick the lower on the leg where it would go. then try to slice small pieces of the PE sprue to fill in the gap. Anyone else had any thoughts on that?