1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

Discussion in 'General Modeling' started by gt350pony66, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Ok, well we'll try it this way. First thing...I have zero problem with anyone else building this kit or anything similar, posting what they are doing with it, in fact I welcome it. I want to see what others are doing. I know what I'm doing because I'm doing it, but I want to share and perhaps give others ideas, but more importantly, I'm interested in what others are doing that I haven't thought of.

    I started this Russian Z ISD about a month ago so I'll put up some past pics and try to work my way up to the present. ISD1.jpeg ISD3.jpeg I'm using .25mm FO for this thinking I could do twice as much lighting and figured it would be more to scale than .50mm. I've drilled a lot of holes, nearly 800 I estimate. I installed the upgrade hangar bay from Falcon3D and also have their engine bells. I'm using Citadel white primer for the primary paint and a light spritz of water based black/gray wash, didn't want it too dark and have the panel lines jumping out at me. ISD15.jpeg
     
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  2. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    ISD5.jpeg SD3.jpeg ISD14.jpeg ISD16.jpeg ISD7.jpeg ISD19.jpeg ISD22.jpeg there are 36 FO in the command tower, and 100 in the face panel.
     
  3. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    isd-falcon2.jpeg ISDhangar1.jpeg ISDhangar5.jpeg ISDhangar3.jpeg I used 2mm led's for the hangar which turned out very well, thanks to the suggestion of another member, Guns Akimbo, to which I am grateful for his suggestions of parts to use and procedure.
     
  4. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    here is as of last night, the lower hull is essentially done except for the engine panel which I've realized I was out of blue LED's. I tried the flicker blues and have decided against it. So I'll start on the upper next. The tower is ready to go but that will be installed later. I estimate I've got nearly 400 or so FO in the lower hull. I'm satisfied with the results. I also acquired a squadron of 30 tie fighters, a couple of shuttles and what was supposed to be 3 variants of the Slave 1, but there was 4, 3 are in flight and one landed. of course one of those will go in the garbage chute, also a Falcon3D piece, the afore mentioned items are Shapeways. I had intended on using the landed shuttle in the secondary hangar, inside the larger one, but the wings are too tall so I'll have to figure something out. I plan to leave rows of the Ties on the upper sprue rail and hang some on the larger hanger. The tiny Falcon in the above post is also a Shapeways piece. SD21.jpeg SD22.jpeg SD23.jpeg SD24.jpeg SD25.jpeg SD26.jpeg SD27.jpeg the stand is something I found on Ebay, as the ones that come with the kit are insufficient for lighting display ISD stand1.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    sorry for the "post after post" here, I'm playing catch up...
     
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  5. computergeek

    computergeek Active Member

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    I've been following your build, and its incredible! What kind of drill bits are you using? I have tried a few different types of .35mm bits and have broken about 15 of them at this point (some are even stuck in my model...)
     
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  6. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    I'm not sure of the brand but I can find out as I'm going to my hobby shop today for some stuff. They were in a small metal drill index box I got at the shop. pretty sure the one I'm using currently is the .35', the set came with like 3 each of the smallest ones. I was using a pin vise stuck in the end of my Makita cordless...got a little heavy and I broke a bit about the 10th hole. then I figured out the right speed. I've since bought a Tamiya hobby drill, the ones you have to assemble...but I bought the tan one as it drills at a faster speed than the common blue one. I tested the blue one at the model show where I got the tan one, too slow. the collet was too small, but I bought a Dremmel collet set at home depot that has a zero space collet when fully closed. been working great and haven't broken anymore bits since that one. just lucky I'd guess. I'm sure my guy has replenished his stock since I got the bit set, so I'll see what brand they were...I dumped all mine in a small plastic tube and tossed the little metal box they came in :wacko
    - - - Updated - - -

    by the way, thanks for the comps, this is by far the biggest lighting project I've done so far. Do share pics of yours, I love seeing other folks stuff too! :thumbsup
     
  7. edge10

    edge10 Sr Member

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    Nice work so far.

    I'll give you the same feedback as I have given others: You might consider using warm white leds for the windows, as it better reproduces the incandescent lights of the 70s and 80s. I do like the lighting that you have given the hanger bays. Is it the exposure that is making it look so bright in the distance shots? It looks great in the close-ups.
     
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  8. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    I guess I should also mention, I'm cutting 12" sections of the FO, and blooming the ends with the soldering iron, string a cluster in place, then secure with Laser Bond...as seen on TV. Some of the tiny areas looked to be prohibitive of the other method of leaving them sticking out, paint, then cut. Harder doing it the way I am, but I'm ok with it.
     
  9. computergeek

    computergeek Active Member

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    Thanks for the info! I have the blue Tamiya drill, may need to look at getting the tan one. I also have that Dremel collet that makes things so much easier :)

    Haven't started on my SD yet, I'm actually working on the Revell Venator kit from a few years back. The SD is next on my list though!
     
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  10. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Thanks! I know you're probably right on the warm white...I just have so many of the bright ones to use up. I considered adding a resistor to drag down the brightness. But you're right about the exposure, I have an Iphone S, same size as a 5, camera isn't that great. but looking at it in person, and not a photo, it's not as bright as the pics.
     
  11. Scarecrow Joe

    Scarecrow Joe Sr Member

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    Looking good. :thumbsup
     
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  12. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Hey man! Thanks! Great to hear from you, have things gotten back to normal/semi normal,over there?
     
  13. Escape068

    Escape068 Well-Known Member

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    Great build!!

    Since you are mushrooming the FO ends did you paint it already?

    I just started my own and have drilled out all the holes and frankly don't want to cut all the FO ends off especially in the crevices where it will be very hard to get a nice flush cut. I test fitted the ship and lit the interior up with a flashlight shinning through from the back and light shines through all the holes very evenly. I spent a lot of time drilling and cleaning out each hole so no leftover debris in the holes block any light. I may just lay warm white strips inside the interior and fill the holes with micro-crystal clear and doing some FO for any holes that will shine red.

    I was thinking about mushrooming the FO but then how do you cover them up to paint unless you paint before and assemble later. You still would have the seams to fix and light block

     
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  14. Scarecrow Joe

    Scarecrow Joe Sr Member

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    Not quite normal yet.....not even semi normal but trying to.
     
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  15. blakeh1

    blakeh1 Sr Member

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    Its coming along nicely


    I'l echo the sentiment of using warm white for the windows and hangar etc.

    Also I would stay away from blues for the engine. Cool whites would be better

    I picked up some cool white flickering LEDs from here for my build
    https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/flickering-led.html
     
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  16. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Thank you my friend, most kind...yeah, I semi assembled, then drilled, then painted, then washed...then strung the FO. lots of work yes, but it's turning out ok so far and I'd hate for a build to go by too fast. I've got a few reds in mine as well, just a few strategic places that will flash to liven it up, around the hangar, a couple in the trenches and the sides of the tower...hazard lighting for shuttles and tie fighters buzzing around.

    That's what I thought too, a guy would have to have some tiny tip surgical scissors to get into some of those tight areas. then you risk scratching the finish with the scissors...or at least I would :facepalm I've never tried the way you're talking about, that sounds interesting. I think I'd read that where you posted it on another thread as well. I may well have to try that on a future project. I'd like to see some pics of that if you'd care to post some. Way back in the day, I used thin styrene sheet over holes, then placed enough lighting so it was even. talk about ancient methods...middle 80's and early 90's. I did a Titanic that way, and it turned out well. I've just started lighting again in the last year or so and it's the first time I'd ever used FO or LED. back in the old days I was using cut down X-mas light strands and you had to be careful not to melt anything with 'em!
     
  17. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Well I hope it doesn't take too long for you, I for one am glad you were able to endure through it, my friend
     
  18. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Thanks!
    I suppose it isn't too late to change it...I'll think on that one. You know for my engines, last night I tried my sand the white LED rough, and colored it with blue sharpie...but I didn't think it was blue enough...perhaps I've already got something sufficient? it had an ever so slight blue hue to it. I think I'll wire those up tonight, stick 'em and see what it looks like. then post a pic for you guys to consider the results.:thumbsup
     
  19. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    I ran over there at lunch, he didn't have any in stock but said it was these, Excel, like the other hobby tools...seems like they were 10-15 bucks but like I said, I've only broke the one...hang on...gotta log off and back on, it won't load the pic :angry
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    drill bits.jpg
     
  20. Scarecrow Joe

    Scarecrow Joe Sr Member

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    Its funny how when I made mine blue a crop of Star Wars experts started the argument that the engines were never blue in ANY of the movies. Well this is a screen shot from Rogue One:

    [​IMG]20170430_002437 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20170430_002421 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

    Whada u know? Look....they look blue in some of the shots. Do them either blue or warm, but choose what ever YOU like. In my case blue looked less boring and they happen to be screen correct. :D
     
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  21. computergeek

    computergeek Active Member

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    Thank you very much! Hopefully I'll have better luck with these :)
     
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  22. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    they've worked great for me so far, seem to be quite flexible, there was a couple of times when I thought for sure I'd snapped one, but it pulled back out intact :thumbsup
     
  23. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Well my friend, I'm glad both you guys chimed in on this, I thought I'd seen them in blue, and perhaps the white as well... I'd have to watch another movie or two again. I'm starting to think they're blue-ish at sub-light speed, and then go white-er when they power up for light speed? Or you know what else I considered...what about the 4 smaller ones be constant, and the 3 big ones flicker...or vise-versa? I'm thinking the constant ones I colored blue that have the slight blue hue to them come into play somewhere?...or am I getting too far into the weeds?
    - - - Updated - - -

    I agree about boring though...it shouldn't be everything white, screen correct or not :lol
     
  24. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    you know another factor which contributes to bits breaking I think, is the drilling speed, not that you haven't already thought of that...I was going to mention that earlier and I spaced
     
  25. Escape068

    Escape068 Well-Known Member

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    Here are some pictures early stages

    I don't have any close-up pictures on the window drill holes but will take some tonight and post along with pictures of the interior painted white.

    I am upgrading with Falcon 3D Parts.......Engine Bells, Hangar Bay and Field Generators. I'm also scratch building a Trench Hangar Bay. I also have a 1/2700 Millennium Falcon and Tantive IV that I may light and use.

    All interior panels have been light blocked and then painted white because my first choice is to use Warm White LED strips or a combination with FO for the interior lighting.

    Cool White for the Hangar Bay lighting

    Flickering Cool White for the 3 main Engine Bells........Should the other 4 smaller engines be lit the same as the main engines?

    I'm having a control board built to simulate multiple laser turrets blasts using 2 LEDs synced to sound a sound clip. I have isolated sound clips of them firing from Episode IV. I need to put the multiple sound clips together in a single sound clip file spaced out correctly which will be synced to 2 LEDs firing multiple times alternating back and fourth between the 2 LEDs. I may use 3 firing points on each side of the ship firing in an alternating pattern. So one point on right side of the ship would fire along with 2 points on left side of the ship at the same time and then it would alternate to 2 points firing on right side and one point on left side with a total of 4 rapid double bursts.

    Hard to explain and not what it did in the movie but it will be a cool effect

    The board will also control the interior lighting, hangar bay and engines. This will be operated all via remote control
     

    Attached Files:

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  26. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Dude, what you have planned is cool as ****! I was thinking on some sound, recordable module playing the empire march or something like that, but what you're doing is really impressive :thumbsup I did get some remotes with multiple receivers but haven't gotten that far as to what to do with them exactly. And the laser fire, way cool. I hadn't thought about hangar bays in the trenches, have you done that yet? pictures? I'd love to do that with mine and it's not too late either.
    the engine lights...I was just discussing that with Scarecrow Joe. I can't decide on white, blue, blue hued white, flickers or solid or a combo of both. I was going to play around with that tonight and see what looked good, then post pics tomorrow for you guys to evaluate.
    I really like the trench hangar thought and I've got some time. if you care to elaborate on that, I'll be most grateful :thumbsup
     
  27. Escape068

    Escape068 Well-Known Member

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    Just started to build the trench hangar.

    Omnius on this forum did one and I will try to duplicate it

    https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=283720

    Scroll down about 8 pictures and you will see a close-up. He has also did some really nice mods.

    I did the same for the hangar bay (scroll down to picture 21).......he combined the original one with the one from Falcon 3D

    Hope to have a few update pictures later when I get home

     
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  28. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Mighty inspiring what Omnius has done with that. The trench hangars are definately going in mine, thanks for the tip brother...I may even have to scroung through my greeblie stash and see what I can add to the upper hull. I've only got a light coat on it and haven't washed it yet. His sure looks good doesn't it. Thanks for plugging that link in my friend. :thumbsup I'll be referencing those pics as well.
     
  29. schwiiifty

    schwiiifty New Member

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    Hello all, I just recieved the Revell version of this.
    And I was thinking of going the same way as Escape068 and sort of skip the FO and go with LED strips.
    But Im looking at the instructions and trying to figure out if its possible to be able to open it up after to reach in to the electronics. Or is it normal to just build all together and if the light goes, thats it? :)
     
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  30. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Welcome aboard! Lucky you, if some of us would have had the patience we could have done this with instructions in English LOL
    I really don't see why you couldn't have it be able to come apart. These parts fit really nice and there's next to no flash trimming. I've hear of guys gluing magnets and metal tabs so things can come back apart, but the way you're talking about the illumination, which by the way is interesting...I want to see you guys do this...anyway, anything you leave removable is going to be susceptible to light leak...however...if you were to leave the top panel of the upper hull loose, and add a "skirt" to the inside to cover the separation line, you just might be able to do it, then of course the tower would have to be removable as well unless you hack that top panel and secure the rear for it where the tower goes, then add another under lapping skirt piece at the rear where it meets where you hacked it. just a thought of course, but that's one way to still access you electrics and not have light leak. But really, if you do your LED's right, leave a way to access your battery for changing out (if that's your power source)...you're lighting system shouldn't ever crap out on you. Whatever path you take, we're all interested to see how you pull this off, so keep us informed and don't forget the pictures :thumbsup Have a great Thanksgiving :cheers
     
  31. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    btw, in my case, I'm going to try at least...to leave the rear engine panel removable and have my 9V clipped to it....perhaps that a better way than what I was talking about before for your situation...if there is any light leak between the engine panel and the upper/lower hull panels, a guy can put a layer of masking tape strips in the areas where there are leaks, plus that would help the panel stay in place...and you can always renew those when the dry out and cut as this of strip you need so it can't be seen.
    just another thought
     
  32. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    ISD ENGINE.jpeg I had big plans last night, till the extermination guys showed up for the monthly spray treatment, then the wife came home, bla, bla, bla...then before I knew it, it was 8:30...this is as far as I got with engine lighting experiments. these are the 5mm bright whites that I color changed to blue-ish.

    Have any of you other guys had the problem with the Falcon 3D engine bells being too short on the contact end that the ring piece #8 won't fit? I think it looked ok without the #8's in there, but then there's a light leak.
    I considered sanding the #8 pieces thinner, but getting them right, without a noticeable gap will be a chore. Then I thought about making some smaller rings that would fit right at the contact point to cover the seam. just wondered if anyone else had this problem and what your solution was other than what I've said.

    thank you my friends :thumbsup
     
  33. Escape068

    Escape068 Well-Known Member

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    Did a lot of little things that needed to be done before lighting...........Trying to delay because I'm still up in the air to do either LED strips or FO for interior lighting?


    Built and light blocked the trench hanger. It is not glued in yet. It needs to be painted and I want to see how I'm going to light the interior of it.

    20171121_191034smaller.jpg 20171121_190503smaller.jpg 20171121_190721smaller.jpg 20171121_191243smaller.jpg


    20171121_191251smaller.jpg 20171121_191354smaller.jpg 20171121_191515smaller.jpg



    Fixed the angle of the command tower and now lines are parallel to ship....still need to add some small strips to fill the small gaps. It's not glued on yet.

    I will be making the top section removable from the ship to get to the electronics. I have glued a small skirt around edge so now it press fits into place and stops 95% of light leak. Some very thin foam will fix the rest. I may also use MicroScale liquid tape to make a stronger but removable connection that can be reattached. The stuff remains sticky and gives a fairly strong temporary bond.


    20171122_120238smaller.jpg 20171122_120436smaller.jpg 20171122_120441smaller.jpg 20171122_120244smaller.jpg


    Here are some pictures of the drilled window holes......from inside and some from outside.

    20171121_190811smaller.jpg 20171121_190830smaller.jpg 20171121_190845smaller.jpg 20171121_190911smaller.jpg


    20171121_190914smaller.jpg


    After the above pictures were taken I drilled more holes so I'm probably 99% done with the drill holes. I have also drilled the locations for the laser turrets in 3 location on each side. I will use .75 mm FO for this connected to 2 green LEDs that will alternate firing 4 double bursts over a 1.5 to 2.5 second span.

    Everyone have a Happy Thanksgiving!!

    I hope to get some more done over the long weekend and post some more pictures.
     
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  34. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Looks Fantastic! Thanks for the pic of the trench hangar, now I know exactly what to do with that. I stared at it for a few minutes last night after looking at Omnius' pics, corridor to the fore and aft, perfect! I haven't as yet, adjusted the angle of the command tower, wasn't sure where exactly to trim it, but I think I see now, thanks for that as well. with everything you're doing, it will outshine mine for sure, excellent work my friend :thumbsup
     
  35. schwiiifty

    schwiiifty New Member

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    Thanks for the answer gt350pony66 and sudjestions. I see Escape068 done some really nice work with that solution.
    I gave it some more thoughts and realised that FO is the way to go.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
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  36. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Sure thing buddy, glad it helped. I think, though it's more work, you're going to be happier with the FO. What size are you thinking of using? I think Escape is starting to lean that way as well, as much as I want to see how that other way works I think he'll go FO as well. Here's my lower with about 400 stands of .25mm in it...scary looking ain't it? But it's not really, sorting out which goes where is time consuming but I think it'll all be worth it...I hope. I reckon to have about 800 strands by finish time. I haven't even started on the upper! :eek
    - - - Updated - - -

    IDS FO.jpeg I hate when I go to load a pic and it won't let me...gotta log off and then on again :facepalm
     
  37. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Btw Schwiiifty...what are you going to power it with? I've been using 9V, mostly because all the prewired LED's I get have the resistor built in, besides it's easier to house and secure a 9 than other stuff. I was told by someone you could only got 10-12 LED per 9V battery, I've used up to 36 with nary a problem:thumbsup
     
  38. schwiiifty

    schwiiifty New Member

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    Aah yes, I will go for 0.25 mm. It feels like more to the scale as most say. :)
    What adhesive are you using for the FO?
    Yeah, I reckon it will be around +-1000 strands.

    EDIT: I'm still thinking of it. I dont know yet how many LEDs I will be using. Have been looking at using USB-connection. To use either a powerbank or a USB charger. But it is 5V, won't be enough so maybe I use a powersupply.

     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
  39. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    I forgot to ask you, did you get any of those tiny Tie Fighters from Shapeways to put in there? I thinks it's like 8 bucks for a rack of 30. I'm going to hang a row or two of 5 in the main hangar, and then place a few in the trench hangars you showed me how to make. :thumbsup
     
  40. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    I agree soundly, .25mm seems more to scale than the .50, though I did use a few .50 in a couple places. I've been using LaserBond, that UV glue, "as seen on TV" I've gone through nearly a whole tube already, and the Walmart and Walgreens around here don't seem to have it anymore :unsure there's another brand they do have in a black tube, and I've used it, it works but I prefer the laserbond because the UV light is blue and you can see exactly where you've glued much easier than the other one.
     
  41. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    A 1000 +/- ?! awesome! You and Escape are gonna make me look like I'm slackin" !! :lol
     
  42. Escape068

    Escape068 Well-Known Member

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    If you just want to turn on/off why don't you power it with a 9 to 12 volt 2 amp DC power supply like this:

    http://hdamodelworx.com/Power-Supplies_c_47.html


    Or a rechargeable 12 volt power pack like this.

    They have different mAh......the higher the longer it will last on its charge


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-2800...hash=item41c2e1735c:m:mscYe0UCZyiwADe69TtLgAA


    You need to install a power connector like this:

    http://hdamodelworx.com/DC-Power-55mm-x-21mm-Female-Cable-Plug_p_27.html


    You can also install an on/off switch or several switches to separately turn on/off: main lighting, engines, hangar bay............





     
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  43. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    I was just thinking about the lighting on your trench hangar...maybe a couple of .50mm FO on either side of the fore/aft corridor section where it won't be seen? I think I'm gonna try that myself since I've already got some on that panel that will be cut out for the hangar...
     
  44. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    All good ideas, you seem like you've got way more know-how on the electronic than I do for sure. I've got some remotes and multi sensors from Modeltrainsoftware for this, and there was some inconspicuous in-line power switches with it. they're like a flush mount kinda thing with a shallow push button so the sensors aren't powered all the time looking for a remote signal. I figure I can mount it on the lower and make it look like just another greeblie...I hope. The remotes can operate multiple sensors to control different functions and you can dim or brighten the lighting. I hope it all works out as planned, like I say...I'm still lacking a bit in the electronic know-how :unsure
     
  45. schwiiifty

    schwiiifty New Member

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    Well honestly I will be aiming on it when I order the fiber so I have more than enough. But I guess my mind will break before your goal. :p
    (I need to import FO from US or UK. Don't want to wait to much. )

     
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  46. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    I will say though, I need to bone up on the electronics...I've got a Deago Falcon on the way and I want to do ALOT of stuff with that one. I read a little about Arduino boards and such...but that stuff is WAY over my head :confused:wacko
     
  47. blakeh1

    blakeh1 Sr Member

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    Looks better than stock blue LEDs as the inner glow is more white with a blue tint around the edges. I wouldn't go any bluer than that
     
  48. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

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    Nah, you'll be fine. I got 1000 ft roll for this one, and I only started with FO and LED in the past year...easy peasy bro, your ISD is gonna be awesome :thumbsup
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    I agree, thanks for the :thumbsup . I thought I'd wet wipe them once more to tone down the blue just a tad more.
     
  49. Escape068

    Escape068 Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    712
    That sounds good....post some pictures of that when you have it all setup . I think Omnius has it lit from the end of the corridor but can't tell from the angle of the picture.

    I was also thinking of cutting a slit/groove in the middle of the corridor ceiling and inserting some clear plastic in the groove and let the interior lighting illuminate it. If you are familiar with the Polar lights 1/350 Enterprise Refit kit.......the hangar bay has 2 over head slits with clear plastic and it light up very nicely

    20161210_155005smaller.jpg


    A few pictures of my 1/350 TMP Enterprise Refit build:



    20161210_154706smaller.jpg 20170202_221321_LLSsmaller.jpg 20170202_220906_LLSsmaller.jpg 20170202_221521_LLSsmaller.jpg 20170202_222742_LLSsmaller.jpg 20161210_161010smaller.jpg 20161210_160751smaller.jpg 20161210_155501smaller.jpg


     
    Mike J. likes this.
  50. gt350pony66

    gt350pony66 Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
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    I think your idea is MUCH better...I'm doing that :thumbsup
    And oh my...that 1701 looks amazing! I've been wanting to do that kit too. You nailed the lighting and detail perfectly. I guess now I have another future project to shoot for!
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    I just looked at those pics again...my friend, you make what I do look like kiddy play! (y)thumbsup:cheers
     
    Muzza likes this.

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