1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build

Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang,

Some AWESOME Greeblies just arrived from Starkiller and Maruska! Thanks Gents!

The new throttle greeblies arrived along with some 3D printed Vickers vents! :)

Throttle greeblie - 3 pieces need to be carefully bolted together, painted, etc...
20130517_053624_zps3dfd79ac.jpg


Throttle greeblie
20130517_053638_zps1f2b97f0.jpg


Up close
20130517_053649_zps1c06a46d.jpg


3D Printed Vickers Vent
20130517_053716_zps5e8f553a.jpg


Another
20130517_053659_zpsf7bcbb0f.jpg


Two Vents
20130517_053604_zpse4e49845.jpg


Remember all those switches? I get to unscrew and paint the ring... all 250+ rings...
20130517_053738_zps74e14edd.jpg


More to Come! OH! BTW... great news... rain this weekend... ugh...
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang,

Well... I spent the day getting the second platform finished and added black stain. It needs another coat but we're moving forward!

20130519_133248_zpsbf0a741f.jpg


20130519_133257_zps71874f62.jpg


20130519_133309_zpsc5c8034a.jpg


Both are on casters so it makes it easy to move about the garage... Not sure how I'm going to connect the two platforms. I was thinking of bolting them together with 4 bolts at the middle under the plywood flooring where they meet but that would make it REALLY difficult to bolt/unbolt - having to tilt the platforms on their sides (these are really heavy!!!). The other option was to bolt them together at the sides??? This might be the logical approach.

Also, I thought long about making the front platform a cone shape similar to the nose itself and decided against it. If push came to shove, it can always be changed. But I decided to keep it simple. :)

20130519_133430_zps746cd254.jpg


More to Come!
 
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Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

hmmmm... Hinges would work... I wonder about the strength? I could just do a straight 2X4 across the sides with bolts every foot or so?
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I vote 2x4's on your sides. Assuming your mating edge isn't all squirrelly (warped or otherwise) and you have solid contact all along, Those 2x4's will lock you in really nicely. And, (of course) the lag bolts (or whatever fasteners) will be really easy to get to later.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Hi Gang,

Need some ADVICE! As you can see in the pics below, the 3D printed throttle greeblies are very thin walled. To lower costs of the 3D prints, Starkiller and I decided to hollow out as much of the part as possible. Ultimately, the idea is to be able to make molds of this part. I want to fill in the backside making the greeblies a "solid and more durable" piece. Normally, and without "thinking", I would have used fiberglass resin to fill the areas. But I'm not sure how the resin would react with the powder base 3D print.

Question: Does anybody have a better suggestion? Resin? Putty? Ideas?

Top and Bottom View
20130520_053301_zps8ed29d23.jpg


The idea is to fill the bottom making the piece very solid and easier to mold
20130520_053319_zps1fbc4063.jpg


Another top and bottom view of throttle greeblies
20130520_053341_zps1f99f62d.jpg


So what's the ideal product to use to fill these? Resin? A JB Weld "type" putty?
20130520_053402_zpsb233fb2c.jpg


Thanks Gang!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

t1made said:
Talk about dedication, thumbs up brother.
Click to expand...

Thanks T1! Appreciate the thumbs up. I really wish I was further along. I'm glad the platforms are finished. Now I can begin real work on the nose!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

SofaKing01 said:
Both are on casters so it makes it easy to move about the garage... Not sure how I'm going to connect the two platforms. I was thinking of bolting them together with 4 bolts at the middle under the plywood flooring where they meet but that would make it REALLY difficult to bolt/unbolt - having to tilt the platforms on their sides (these are really heavy!!!). The other option was to bolt them together at the sides??? This might be the logical approach
Click to expand...

I have two suggestions for this. The first one being a flat interlocking latch, kinda like how you might find on a sectional sofa. The only problem I can see with this is that the two platforms might have a small gap between them. But this might be solved by routing out a groove in the side panel.

My other suggestion is a case latch at the front and back. If you get heavy duty ones, that should be plenty to hold the pieces together, and survive some abuse. The only issue I see with this, if it even bothers you, is that the latch would be visible at the front. Of course, they might blend in with the theme and no one will even notice.

Just my two cents!
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Yhis is looking GREAT! I wish I knew more about your question on filling in the printed greeblies. I do have a suggestion on the floor. I would bolt the platform pieces together or hinge them. Don't worry about the looks of the floor woods. And on top of that, instead of stain, I would throw down a single-piece rubber mat cut to shape. People would walk on rubber, not your wood. And the rubber edges would help you hide the gaps that will be between the angled side walls and the floor?
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

SofaKing01 said:
Hi Gang,

Need some ADVICE! As you can see in the pics below, the 3D printed throttle greeblies are very thin walled. To lower costs of the 3D prints, Starkiller and I decided to hollow out as much of the part as possible. Ultimately, the idea is to be able to make molds of this part. I want to fill in the backside making the greeblies a "solid and more durable" piece. Normally, and without "thinking", I would have used fiberglass resin to fill the areas. But I'm not sure how the resin would react with the powder base 3D print.

Thanks Gang!
Click to expand...

I would use plain old Bondo. Fill the backs in, spatula it level, and just be really careful in cleaning off any excess as it starts to set up. I'm just spit-balling here, but I don't think the heat from the bondo would affect your pieces if they are laid on a flat surface to cure without warpage. As I said though, just spit-balling. I think resin would be a messy nightmare, and something like jb weld isn't going to allow a fudge-factor for sanding excess off easily.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

On the switches can you post the UPC for them? Maybe we can locate them that way.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

laellee said:
I would use plain old Bondo. Fill the backs in, spatula it level, and just be really careful in cleaning off any excess as it starts to set up. I'm just spit-balling here, but I don't think the heat from the bondo would affect your pieces if they are laid on a flat surface to cure without warpage. As I said though, just spit-balling. I think resin would be a messy nightmare, and something like jb weld isn't going to allow a fudge-factor for sanding excess off easily.
Click to expand...

I've worked with both glass and bondo so I'm familiar with both - it's been a long while. I think bondo would work pretty well... Great idea. I'll give that a shot. And if I remember, I can use wax paper for both without sticking?

- - - Updated - - -

greylocke said:
On the switches can you post the UPC for them? Maybe we can locate them that way.
Click to expand...

I just tossed all the boxes away. I grab a few from WalMart and post a pic. :)
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Pouring resin into the void might be cleaner than having to spatula in thick bondo.

And would be self leveling.

Maybe do a test drop on a piece to make sure there is no reaction or absorption.

Just my two cents.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

Sofa King- Yep, wax paper works well.

Nick Daring- I agree on the resin, I personally prefer Bondo (peanut-butter it and it also will stay in despite it's orientation), but the resin would level itself nicely with less air pockets. I'm also just a heck of a messy resin guy, so I'd get that stuff everywhere unless i was filling parts with a turkey baster :lol:lol:lol
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

If you're just filling it to make the mold why not use plasticine? No harm to your source part.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

I thought the same thing. Clay or anything like that. You can take it out if you need the part in the original condition.
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

To save money on the original 3D print, Starkiller hollowed out the original 3D deisgn. As a result, it is now very flexible and flimsy. Basically, I want to "refill" the backside and make the greeblie more durable as well as make it a solid piece - this will make it easier to mold. Just not sure what materiel is best...
 
Re: 1:1 Millennium Falcon Console Replica

nick daring said:
Pouring resin into the void might be cleaner than having to spatula in thick bondo.

And would be self leveling.

Maybe do a test drop on a piece to make sure there is no reaction or absorption.

Just my two cents.
Click to expand...

That was my initial thought. I'm just not sure how the 3D material will react to the resin/heat. Can anybody weigh in?
 
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