Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
Made some of the edits needed and did a quick render to show off the details.
The 12th Doctor's New Sonic Screwdriver
- Thread starter ManOfGallifrey
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ThatOneGuy123
New Member
nice, definately makes it easier to see the indiidual parts (for me anyway), anyone have any idea what diameter the tubes on the emitter would be?
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Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
I also worked out how all the parts fit together, which you can see in this section cut view.
You can sort of tell what they are once you get into a program to build it, in relation to the measurements that you can read. I scoured the Internet to find a better image but came up empty-handed. They don't all match up as it is though, the length of the two longest dimensions don't fit into the full length when all the shorter ones are added up. I just started with a screen grab of the one he holds up in the interview and worked out the dimensions as close to the prototype images as I could.
You can sort of tell what they are once you get into a program to build it, in relation to the measurements that you can read. I scoured the Internet to find a better image but came up empty-handed. They don't all match up as it is though, the length of the two longest dimensions don't fit into the full length when all the shorter ones are added up. I just started with a screen grab of the one he holds up in the interview and worked out the dimensions as close to the prototype images as I could.
ThatOneGuy123
New Member
Ah, ok, what program do you you for the rendering?
Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
I use Solidworks for all modeling, rendering, exporting, etc.
The concept art always varies from the finished prop. I'm sure Nick suggested changes as he was building it from the concept art. Things like changing the slots from square ends to rounded because it's easier to mill out round holes. I can't wait to add one of these to my collection.
Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
That's precisely why I was liberal with the measurements on the diagrams in lieu of matching the screen shots of the actual prop more closely. In the interview, Capaldi says he made some suggestions after seeing the prototypes and obviously during the build, Robatto makes changes on account of work-ability.
The only thing that I would change on your excellent model would be to make the screws the more hexagonal allen key type(Pretty sure that isn't what it is called) and to add the rubber o-ring in between the two brass rings.
Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
Are they hex screws? I couldn't tell from any of the photos one way or the other, they appeared round and with phillips head screw holes from what I saw.
As for the O ring, since I'm planning to 3d print, keeping the part count down to a minimum is key to a good price so I just made a recess that could be painted in black - or if one was so inclined, have a flexible O ring added after the fact.
Well, to be fair, you can swipe the board from a Wand Co. 10th sonic if you want a tiny TV-B-Gone
Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
For reference, here are the inner dimensions of my model with 1mm walls, to give people a general idea of how much room is inside. This is the lower portion of the sonic - everything below the emitter portion that lights up.
Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
I worked it out to be 5mm but it's possible they're a tad bigger. I happened to have a few rods of 5mm acrylic rod left over from my 8th Doctor alt sonic run so I went with that since it fit nicely into the design - plus a standard LED is 5mm in diameter. After figuring out the placement of the holes in the top, the distance between each of them (if you were to insert LED's just below each 5mm rod) is about 1mm which leaves just enough clearance for the lip on the bottom of the LED's. It's possible they used LED's without the lip but either way, the way things fit in and look in relation to each other, 5mm is my best guess.
Looks like it is the right size. Though I'd have to have it in hand to be sure.
Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
Looks like it is the right size. Though I'd have to have it in hand to be sure.
That can be arranged, in time haha. I just finished up all the joints between parts as well as the way the LED's will be incorporated into the base of the emitter section. There are 16 parts all together, not including the acrylic rods.
Here's the exploded view of all the separate parts.
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The only thing I would change is to make the screws all hex. In the Instagram shots, It looks pretty hex to me. On top of that, I haven't ever seen a Philips head screw with that sort of cylindrical head. Its possible that its a screw only available in the UK, but I somewhat doubt that.
Also, not sure how well the knurling on the switch will turn out. How are you going to make that happen?
Also, not sure how well the knurling on the switch will turn out. How are you going to make that happen?
Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
Can you link to the Instagram or rather can you post the pictures here? I don't think I can view them without an Instagram account. I'm happy to make the change but I'd need to see them for myself.
It may turn out to be more suggestive but the minimal embossed/recessed detail for the material is .2mm and the cut ins measure .35 around each embossed knurl so the detail will show up but depending on the orientation in the printer, it could print great or okay - if printed on its side so the straight dimensions are in the Z direction it will print best, while if printed on it's end or with the side facing towards the sonic facing up, there will be stepping at certain intervals - but that stepping will only add slight variances to the actual form and will appear to be similar to the form of the knurling itself where that stepping occurs. Honestly, it should look good no matter how it's printed but there is talk of allowing us to choose orientation in the near future so if that happens before I print it then I can arrange the parts in the file upload to print in their ideal orientation - which is something I've been doing from the get go in the hopes that it will print in the orientation that I upload the model. It doesn't always happen that way but when it does, it looks amazing so here's to hoping that change goes into effect soon!
Ya, I'm pretty sure those are button head allen screws. You guys are talking about the ones that hold on the handle-cage things, right?
Doctor Octoroc
Sr Member
Yeah, those and the ones that fasten the plates that hold the mechanical bits on the sides. Can you post the pictures of them? I actually love the look of hex over Phillips (and they'll print better) but I need to see them to know what I'm changing them to.
I went back to look at the reference photos, and now I'm not certain if they are button head allen screws or low profile allen heads. Here's reference for both:
Low profile Allens.
Button Head Allen.
The button head is a low dome shape from the side.
Low profile Allens.
Button Head Allen.
The button head is a low dome shape from the side.
I first thought they were button head screws; which would be more comfortable on the hand because of their rounded dome shape, but there looks to be a bit more rim showing on the screws than a button head would have. That's why I changed my mind to the Low Profile Allen screw.
Here's the photo that I noticed it on. (I wish the resolution was a bit better)
You can zoom in on the screws and see what I mean.
Here's the photo that I noticed it on. (I wish the resolution was a bit better)
You can zoom in on the screws and see what I mean.
