I'm looking to buy one of Roy's TFA kits to convert my Parks ANH Graflex purchased a couple of years back. This was before Jeff Parks totallly changed his parts, so I still have the desirable details, like the more accurate red button and an actual glass eye. I just have a few questions for you guys if you don't mind:
1. I'm assuming that the clamp cover will fit a Parks clamp fine, however I've definitely seen differences between the diameters of different replicas, so I'm not sure. Anyone want to weigh in here?
2. I saw 2 members previously point out divots on Roy's TFA clamp covers. Has this issue been ironed out yet? I'm going for a pretty clean and sanitized look for this saber...so any blemishes are a big no no for me.
3. As it's an ANH Graflex, I'll need to make some holes for the grip rivets. I'm assuming this requires at least a drill press to accomplish, and for that reason I may end up just buying a new bottom section and selling the ANH one. Can anyone here who's drilled their own holes let me know if it's less of a headache than I'm envisioning?
4. Speaking of rivets, are Roy's entirely accurate? I saw previous people substituting them but I can't for the life of me find a reason.
Thanks everyone, and Happy New Year!
1. Parks clamp may not be as accurate as you are lead to believe... roys clamp cover matches the vintage clamp 100%. if you grab roys clamp cover and place it over the parks it MAY not line up correctly with the square holes and long oval... SOLUTION: grab a vintage clamp for your replica, or buy a 100% accurate clamp from roman, romans clamps and roys covers fit flawlessly
2. this is surprising to me? i practically live on this site and i have never heard of this? i have about... 5 covers from Roy with 1 new one on the way. bought in batches at different times. I dont mass produce sabers, im just a greeblie saber junkie.. i collect these pieces like art work i guess we can say. NONE of my covers have these so called "divots" they are flawless. and if i did have a divot i have no doubt Roy would stand behind his product 100%. Roy is an awesome guy, who i trust entirely
3. i drilled all mine with out a drill press. the first grips i drilled i didnt even use a center punch... but the center punch made my world a whole lot easier.. i double and triple check everything... as for buying a new bottom why? Roy sells the TFA bottom cover plate which will cover up any previous rivet hole issues you had before?
4.
"Roy's entirely accurate?" let me tell you, i dont think ANYONE on here as done as much rivet research as our boy Roy. if you read the major long TFA graflex thread, roy has done his home work.
"I saw previous people substituting them but I can't for the life of me find a reason." I dont think they are switching out the rivets for more accurate rivets, i think they are switching them out because there is so much confusion on what was used on the actual saber. thanks to the launch bay sabers we are even more super confused... one launch bay has hex head flat screws for the grips, and tamperproof screws for the D ring...the prop shop saber has rusty hex head screws. but you can clearly see on film they never used rusty hex head screws...
i strongly STRONGLY believe what i see on the Maz box saber is rivets, roy's rivets match perfectly.
i stand behind wannawanga.com 100% :thumbsup