Reacher
Active Member
Mine is sitting at my local depot waiting for me.
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Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming
- Thread starter phase pistol
- Start date
Mine is sitting at my local depot waiting for me.
Hirohawa
Sr Member
You seek Dave G and his awesome acrylic stand with engraved Blade Runner logo.
Lazerblade
Active Member
Very nice. Put in a PM to the maker to see if I can get one. Thanks for the tip scottjua.
Yorkie Fett
Sr Member
Thats strange, i would have thought they would have all come through at the same time via the same route.
Could a situation arise where some get through customs and some don't?
Lazerblade
Active Member
Probably a stupid question but do the green lights on the left side cylinder cover light up? If so, I have not figured it out.
Reacher
Active Member
Tracking number was for the EMS Japan website
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No, they don't and that is movie accurate as only the red ones were ever shown to light up. There were two grey wires presumably leading to those leds in the worldcon photos but the wires were cut.
No I've been using the Parcelforce tracker from the start, but yes I am waiting on that little piece of horrid chargeable paper to come through the door? I suspect that its somewhere between the main depot and my local one, seeing as it passed clearance some while ago.
I received mine today and wow what a piece. So clean and precise. Lots of parts so I got to hunker down and read the instructions which thankfully are translated. I want to thank Mune for a great transaction and fast delivery.
So...I want to blue this thing. Do I need to clean the metal parts first in case of mold residue? Any recommendations on the type of bluing to get?
Carl
So...I want to blue this thing. Do I need to clean the metal parts first in case of mold residue? Any recommendations on the type of bluing to get?
Carl
It's always a good idea to throughly wash any metal before blueing or other chemical treating. I recommend warm water and soap, use a toothbrush to get in all the crevices and wipe dry with a clean cloth or paper towel. Then wash down with cheap white vinegar and dry again. Handle with gloves so as to not get finger oils on the metal and apply blueing right away.
Thanks Dave I will do just that. 
I really want to go with a JUST issued BR. I want a nice blueing effect on it. Whats the very best blueing out there?
Carl
I really want to go with a JUST issued BR. I want a nice blueing effect on it. Whats the very best blueing out there? Carl
Carl,
I've not blued mine yet, I thinks other's have and can chime in. The blueing I use for steel (Casey's) isn't intended for Zinc. For my pewter snub nose blaster I used Jax Chemicals' Pewter Black PAtina, but again, different metals, different chemicals.
Good luck!
I've not blued mine yet, I thinks other's have and can chime in. The blueing I use for steel (Casey's) isn't intended for Zinc. For my pewter snub nose blaster I used Jax Chemicals' Pewter Black PAtina, but again, different metals, different chemicals.
Good luck!
Ok thanks Dave.
Carl
Carl
Looks like Tomenosuke recommends using Birchwood Aluminum Black for the kit but they have a bottle of Super Blue in the blog picture. :confused ???PRO???????????? : ???? ????? ??????
philmonty
New Member
This may seem like a really stupid question, but I am not familiar with the lore of the blasters and the various models over the years. So the question is:
Is the kit as delivered meant to match the "movie" version. From what I can tell the movie version has a more worn "chrome" look on the steyr barrel?? So are people bluing the parts to make them look like a "newer" version or just cause it looks cooler? What parts are people bluing?
I have my blaster waiting when I get back from Europe on Sunday, and want to get everything straight before I start assembly.
Phil
I'm no expert either, so the experts are welcome to correct me, but here's how I understand it. The photos most people associate with the gun these days are Karl Tate's taken at Worldcon. In these photos, time has not been kind to the prop and it does in fact differ from when it was filmed. For one, the weaver-knob on the side appears to have been added afterward because in the film there is a regular slotted screw there (which, happily enough, Tomenosuke has included, letting you choose which version you want to build). Also, parts of the gun like the reciever and trigger guard had begun to develop rust on the surface, which is common when all bluing has worn away. Since other parts of the gun are clearly painted, it is assumed that most of the bare metal parts (except the buttplate) were in fact blued when the film was shot. So, you have the choice of making it "screen accurate" or "real world accurate".
This is my FOURTH copy of the PKD. The others were all Sidkits and I did them up more in a "Worldcon" theme. But since this is (hopefully) the last PKD I'll ever get, I chose to do mine more "screen accurate".
Hirohawa
Sr Member
These are images of the blaster as delivered to set. I agree with Joetrash's assessment of the Blaster. It was not a raw metal rusty worn look.
The beat up rusty prop that showed up at World Con was the result of two decades of neglect not what was intended to be used or filmed on set.
