Nerf Gun Props? YES!

here's some pictures of my maverick i did in my school computers class IMG_0460.JPGIMG_0461.JPG
 
Here's another Borderlands 2 inspired Element. I cut down the ammo boc, replaced it with the ammo drum from a toy machine gun, gave it a dirty red paintjob complete with nasty, pointy teeth, and here it is, Badsprout's Wastelands Special.
 

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I seen this blaster out shopping with my son and thought it would make an awesome Steampunkesque undead slaying Boomstick.
DSC_3579_zps3ea6c350.jpg

I moulded a skull and pentagrams in cold cast brass. The handle is wrapped in strips of rolled up chamois leather from the £ shop.
boom stick 1.jpg
The bottom of the handle is a metal cupboard knob.
boom stick 2.jpg
 
I have a question guys and girls. I'm in the process of converting a Stryfe into a longer-bodied 40K laspistol. The reduction's done, as is ~90% of the sanding down to remove logos and generally rough up the plastic. All that's left really is adding details and filling in where the orange muzzle used to be. I also want to fill all the little grooves and suchlike to get flatish, smooth panels and grip. What would people suggest, ie sandable wood filler? This'll be part of an Imperial Guard officer cosplay eventually (maybe), and doesn't really need to be amazing.
 
Love this thread... Here is my latest nerf ... Tried something new black dye instead if paint took well to the plastic (most parts) good base for nerfs you still want to work as you get no buildup on internal parts: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1395491422.227855.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1395491466.822330.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1395491497.929271.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1395491520.052809.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1395491541.380573.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1395491560.520178.jpg
 
Just a FYI I did absolutely zero prep to the surface just pulled out the internals air restrictors and the parts that needed dyeing came out quite well soaked in the hot (not boiling dye) for around 6min. Dry off reassemble done. Be carefully with thin plastics the hot dye will warp parts if left in too long or it's too hot!

Some plastic parts ie the pistol loop on the base of the grip took zero colour change. The type of plastic for this tougher piece.
 
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I have a question guys and girls. I'm in the process of converting a Stryfe into a longer-bodied 40K laspistol. The reduction's done, as is ~90% of the sanding down to remove logos and generally rough up the plastic. All that's left really is adding details and filling in where the orange muzzle used to be. I also want to fill all the little grooves and suchlike to get flatish, smooth panels and grip. What would people suggest, ie sandable wood filler? This'll be part of an Imperial Guard officer cosplay eventually (maybe), and doesn't really need to be amazing.

I use Revell Plasto as it comes ready mixed in a tube. Miliput is just as good if you don't mind getting it on your fingers.
 
Milliput? Isn't that epoxy putty? I tried GW's Green stuff on another project and that clogged up my sandpaper. I was looking for I'll take a look at that Revell stuff though
 
You could make plastic goop. Just drop styrene off cuts into a jar containing a littlr acetone. It melts the plastic to a pasty consistancy which can be applied easily. Once the acetone evaporates, the styrene firms up again and can be sanded as normal.
 
Just a FYI I did absolutely zero prep to the surface just pulled out the internals air restrictors and the parts that needed dyeing came out quite well soaked in the hot (not boiling dye) for around 6min. Dry off reassemble done. Be carefully with thin plastics the hot dye will warp parts if left in too long or it's too hot!

Some plastic parts ie the pistol loop on the base of the grip took zero colour change. The type of plastic for this tougher piece.

How well does it stick to the plastic? I might go this way myself if it doesn't scratch off too easy (getting annoyed with Plasti-kote spray paints, wish we could get Krylon over here).
 
How well does it stick to the plastic? I might go this way myself if it doesn't scratch off too easy (getting annoyed with Plasti-kote spray paints, wish we could get Krylon over here).

It's a stain so the plastic changes colour. It's quite thick (soaked in deep) into the plastic. It's very scratch resistant. If you didn't know you would swear the plastic was made that color. Very impressed with the results. You do get varying shades depending on the original plastic color. Try Rid fabric color dye just make sure you get the one for polyester or man made fabrics else nothing happens. As a base colour Black is the way to go then you can paint on top. It got rid of the horrid orange lickity split. Longer soaking at lower temps may get a more consistent color. After I warped my first $2 gun I was more careful with the nerf didn't want to leave it too long. I would say 60 degrees Celsius is hot enough. Next time I am going to soak it longer. The heat seems to help the the dye soak in.
 
It's a stain so the plastic changes colour. It's quite thick (soaked in deep) into the plastic. It's very scratch resistant. If you didn't know you would swear the plastic was made that color. Very impressed with the results. You do get varying shades depending on the original plastic color. Try Rid fabric color dye just make sure you get the one for polyester or man made fabrics else nothing happens. As a base colour Black is the way to go then you can paint on top. It got rid of the horrid orange lickity split. Longer soaking at lower temps may get a more consistent color. After I warped my first $2 gun I was more careful with the nerf didn't want to leave it too long. I would say 60 degrees Celsius is hot enough. Next time I am going to soak it longer. The heat seems to help the the dye soak in.

That definitely sounds like the way forward, I think I'll give it a go, thanks for the heads up :D
 
Definitely make sure it's no too hot here is my first failImageUploadedByTapatalk1396350120.844848.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1396350151.537784.jpg
Dye took really well to the plastic but the heat warped it so it would not reassemble.

Oh and the Rit dye top left corner was also the wrong type.
 
Thanks for the advice, I found the right one and have ordered some (been looking at the other colours too). Looking forward to trying it out as I have built up quite a backlog that need doing. Having to wrestle with crappy paint takes the fun out of it so hoping this will inspire me to carry on with them again :thumbsup
 
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