What I would LOVE to see would be a set of grips to the exact dimensions, curved bottom & with the cutouts. A guy can dream, right? :lol
I have to agree! It indeed seems to be completely curved on the bottom. A logical shape of course.
So I was right after all.
What I would LOVE to see would be a set of grips to the exact dimensions, curved bottom & with the cutouts. A guy can dream, right? :lol
Foe Hammer:
There's a 3D file on thingiverse that I think may suit your wish. I 3D printed a sample, and it does match the curve of the curve of the graflex.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1239780
Looks like Marv/ssunky stuff. Fins are too high, base is too thin.
View attachment 655774
Thanks for the input! I really appreciate it.
Too me, they actually look shorter and a little wider, but the thickness on the base, after the curvature is about equal to Roy's, which is about 2 mm. I know there's a debate for channeled or not, and these are most likely inaccurate. But, for those who want that curvature, this file is not that off, i think. I did, however widened it a little if I remember correctly to 13.5 mm. I don't remember if I messed around with the height, but it measures 7 mm. I think thats the height of Roy's as well. Maybe it is because I re-sized it. I've had this file for a while on my computer.
I printed 1 at home, to test the look, because I messed up my Roy grips. :facepalm
I will be reordering new ones soon from Roy's as well, and I also had a 1 grip of these ordered on Shapeways, to see what they look like on their material. I've never tried shapeways, so I thought this would be a good test. I don't know if they'll paint well, so that's why I'd probably go with Roy's. I'm just afraid of messing up again. :lol
Parks ESB grips with rivets.
Foe Hammer:
There's a 3D file on thingiverse that I think may suit your wish. I 3D printed a sample, and it does match the curve of the curve of the graflex.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1239780
Thanks, but I'm looking for TFA specs like Roy had found in his analysis.
The rod inside the lightsaber in the film is silver, not gold, right? Like KR's VS blade plug.
View attachment 655854
(Also, if anyone wants HQ screenshots, just ask!)
It's a shame that Roy's profile doesn't match the TFA profile, as this would be the ultimate quick fix
The rod inside the lightsaber in the film is silver, not gold, right? Like KR's VS blade plug.
View attachment 655854
(Also, if anyone wants HQ screenshots, just ask!)
Just tried modifying Roy's great T track to give it an underneath radius.
Stuck some 120 grit paper to 3 cell bottom and rubbed the track on it for 10 minuted - ta da!
It's a shame that Roy's profile doesn't match the TFA profile, as this would be the ultimate quick fix
View attachment 655900View attachment 655901View attachment 655902View attachment 655903View attachment 655904
The grips were hard plastic or printed plastic - not sure. They were not extruded plastic thats for sure - none of the crispness you'd associate with that. The upright of the T track was parallel (no taper to the top) and met the base of the T track with a tight right angle - no radius like Roy's grips etc. The base of the T track flared in places as if it had, had pressure on it while it was still malleable. Also the length of the T track base was not always straight, some had a misshaped curve.
The lighting in the room is very low, with spots lighting the exhibits so it is very difficult to see things clearly in there. The grips looked like they may have been painted/ powder coated as they seemed to show signs of chipping in places.
Sorry I didn't get to photograph anything else in detail as I had my 5 and 2 year old with me so I couldn't afford for to take my eyes of them for long
Just tried modifying Roy's great T track to give it an underneath radius.
Stuck some 120 grit paper to 3 cell bottom and rubbed the track on it for 10 minuted - ta da!
It's a shame that Roy's profile doesn't match the TFA profile, as this would be the ultimate quick fix
View attachment 655900View attachment 655901View attachment 655902View attachment 655903View attachment 655904
If you want accuracy, you can do TCSS, Blastech, or maybe, beg on the WTB forum and get some 2.0 grips. Add rivets, and all of these are great options.
DINVADER posted back here an article from Cinefex about the TFA props, and they stated that the tfa grips were rubber. The PropShop ones all have 3D printing in play, not comfort of actors. So I still believe that the Blastech-TCSS grips are a good option.Yes but it's not just the bottom curvature that's needed. Recall that you mentioned the TFA grips also had completely vertical fins at right angles to the base, unlike the tapered fins Roy uses that match ANH and ESB. So new T-track of this variety would still be ideal.
Yes but the tcss and blastech grips are rubber, while the 2.0 grips are plastic, so whichever material you feel is most accurate would also come into play.
Remember, you can always trim them to make a maz box saber.Thanks, but I'm looking for TFA specs like Roy had found in his analysis.