Who is this "Sidkit" and why don't I own his Mal Reynolds pistol?

I've just gotten the OK to register here at RPF.

I've been reading this thread and the other Sid's threads for some time, and it was the great RPF members who informed me of that wonderful SidKik of Capt. Mal's pistol ( I have #45). I also learned how to finish the kit with a wide varietys of blueing / browning agents, paints, and rubbed on finishes. I also learned of the upcoming walnut pistol grips and other building tips. I just want to thank all of you for the wonderful help and advice you've given me.

Here is a piece of information I got from a Gun Blueing professional. If you are haveing problems with the finish rubbing off, the main reason is that there is still oil from handeling on the pieces. He suggested a four step process. First clean the parts with acetone, then wash in hot water with Dawn and scrub with a stiff paint brush. Next dunk the part in a pan of boiling water, then repeat with yet a second pan of boiling water. After this NEVER handle with your bare hands. Use rubber gloves while blueing and finishing. If you are using steel wool, go through the same proccess for removing oil. A pad of steel wool can have as much as a teaspoon of oil in it.


All blueing agents work best with ferris metals, and this gun kit is a "white metal" kit, and is a non ferris metal.

Welcome to the board!

That is an excellent point - while I did wear latex gloves during the oxidizing/bluing process, I don't think I did when I cleaned the metal. Plus, I used nail polish remover, which is far from "pure" acetone. If I still had any oxidizer left, I'd consider stripping mine and starting from scratch, but I honestly don't want to deal with re-ordering and whatnot. So, clear-coat it is!

P.S.: It's "ferrous". :)
 
Well, I got my kit. I ordered over a month, and a half ago. I asked for an extra clip (cartridge, magazine, what ever) and he said he would include one. After waiting a month, I contacted him, and he said it had been lost, and shipped another. Most kind of him, and I got it within a week, or two, of his shipping the second one. It arrived with all the parts in one box, but sadly no extra clip.

There are a lot of great things about this replica, but I was very disappointed in the thumb screws, and in many cases where there should be set screws, there are domed head screw, and vice versa. :( I would really like to have seen a way to attach the top rail with something other then epoxy, too. :( And, the barrel is very loose, even with the screws in place, so it will take a lot of epoxy to "sure it up". (plus, said screws are one of those cases were set screws were used on the real prop, but not on this replica.)

I'm going to go to the hardware store on monday, and see if I can find set screws, and domb head screws, in the correct sizes to swap them out, and dress it up a bit. I'll also pic up some Aluma black, and perma blue, to see witch I like better for this metal.

I will also probably have to track down a set of those more accurate thomb screws. Witch I really don't want to, because I don't want brass ones, either, but I do like the details of the ones done a year ago, or so.

Despite my few small complaints, I really am happy to have this kit, and look forward to working on it.
 
Boba Debt once said he was going to make machined steel thumbscrews to sell, but I don't know if he's abandoned that project.
 
Well, I got my kit. I ordered over a month, and a half ago. I asked for an extra clip (cartridge, magazine, what ever) and he said he would include one. After waiting a month, I contacted him, and he said it had been lost, and shipped another. Most kind of him, and I got it within a week, or two, of his shipping the second one. It arrived with all the parts in one box, but sadly no extra clip.

There are a lot of great things about this replica, but I was very disappointed in the thumb screws, and in many cases where there should be set screws, there are domed head screw, and vice versa. :( I would really like to have seen a way to attach the top rail with something other then epoxy, too. :( And, the barrel is very loose, even with the screws in place, so it will take a lot of epoxy to "sure it up". (plus, said screws are one of those cases were set screws were used on the real prop, but not on this replica.)

I'm going to go to the hardware store on monday, and see if I can find set screws, and domb head screws, in the correct sizes to swap them out, and dress it up a bit. I'll also pic up some Aluma black, and perma blue, to see witch I like better for this metal.

I will also probably have to track down a set of those more accurate thomb screws. Witch I really don't want to, because I don't want brass ones, either, but I do like the details of the ones done a year ago, or so.

Despite my few small complaints, I really am happy to have this kit, and look forward to working on it.

Back in June Boba Debt solved the loose barrel problem. This what he suggested.

"Drill a 1/4" hole through the back of the barrel and through the center of the barrel socket. Inset a 1.5" bolt in the barrel, hold it in place with a screw driver and insert the barrel into the barrel socket. Use your finger to position the nut and washer and tighten it until it just starts to get snug. You should not have to use anything to hold the nut except your finger pressure. Insert both set screws and tighten the 1/4" bolt until it's snug.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLT

If your barrel is not aligned with the body, use a shimat the base of the barrel to adjust it."

I hope this is a help. I plan to use this method to attach my barrel to the gun body.
 
MalSidkitNumber33.jpg


Decisions, decisions...

I never imagined there would be SO many ways to finish this gun.

Having read through all the stunning examples, I must say that I've caught "paralysis by analysis"! :)

Anyways, I hope to get up the nerve to start on #33 soon!

Thanks for all the info - I'll keep you posted!
 
I just realized that I hadn't posted my 99% finished gun yet!

I haven't decided what to do with the knobs, but here she is otherwise!

side2qy2.jpg

side1io6.jpg


And for the grips, I just used a high-grit sandpaper and drug it from top to bottom while holding the paper on tightly. This created a pretty interesting "grain". Then I put on two colors of brown acrylic, followed by a bit of India Ink which was very quickly wiped off. Then a dullcoat to seal it up! I'm really happy with the way they turned out.

grip1fu7.jpg

grip2bz0.jpg
 
Love it, Darth Brass. Looks fantastic. You did a real good job on the grips, as well.

Although, I think the viewfinder (on the end of the barrel) is backwards.
 
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SON OF A *****.

That's glued on, too - the holes were predrilled incorrectly and that was the only way it fit so I erringly figured it was the right way. I can't believe I forgot to check that!

Frick.

*sigh*
 
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wow
how did you finish teh gun man!? that thing looks goldish!

and WOW you WON! that is the BEST finish on these crappy resin grips that i have seen! bravo!
 
It still looks great. (I actually like the sight that way better anyway's. :) )

I started using a very similar trick with sand paper, to get wood grain, on my props, I've been doing it for about a year now. That trick with the latex paint didn't work for me, so I had to find my own solution.

I guess great minds really must think alike. :)
 
wow
how did you finish teh gun man!? that thing looks goldish!

and WOW you WON! that is the BEST finish on these crappy resin grips that i have seen! bravo!

I agree!

Nice to know about the grips, but please give us your secrets for the rest of the finish!

Bruce
 
Okay, so I only took a few pictures during the body treatment phase and they all look like poop.

So you get this:
mefx0.jpg


I pretty much followed Sidkit's instructions. I used a brass dremel wheel, though I only have a 2-speed, so I just used the slower setting. Then switched to the sandpaper, though the finest grit I could find was only 600. I had a hell of a time getting it to the way I wanted it, but I finally tired of working on the darn thing and said "it's good enough". Washed it off with Acetone which brought out a TON of impurities or whatever. Almost turned the whole thing black. Lots more cleaning, buffing, some more sanding, etc.

I think there was some super-fine steel wool in there somewhere, too.

Then it was all Blue Wonder, just as Sidkit mentions. I had let the pistol air out for a few days after the final Acetone cleaning, then started applying the bluing solution. I heated the parts with a craft heat gun and applied as directed. I wasn't really wowed with the darkening, so I REALLY soaked the thing, being sure to get it into as many grooves as I could.

Did that about 4 times.

Used the whole freakin' bottle.

Then rubbed the developer on and let it dry. Rubbed developer on again.

No gun oil or anything.

After the bluing process, it was Rub n' Buff #76371L - Grecian Gold for the accents. Applied a little more than I had planned, but the stuff is so cool - I'd never used it before.

Then let it sit for, oh, a week or two, before looking at it again. Seems to have darkened up a bit. I don't know if the RnB oxidized or something, but I really love the look now.

Still debating about what to do for the knobs. I have the brass ones produced for the resin kit, but I just don't like the brass color.

For the grips, again, it was I think 400-grit sandpaper placed at the top and dragged down in one direction, pressing very firmly as to create as deep a groove as possible. Then I would sand very lightly to take the burrs off, then make grooves again. Basically just trying to create a realistic looking grain. I'd never done it before, just something I figured I'd try on the junk grips.

After the grooves, it was India Ink which produced a really dark color as seen here (comparing to the original color of the grips):
grip1vy2.jpg


Another shot of the India Ink undercoat:
grip2cc0.jpg


Then it was rubbing on alternating coats of Liquitex Acrylic "Yellow Oxide" and "Raw Sienna". (I think there may have been a smudge or two of "Crimson" as well when I was experimenting - you can see it a little in one of the grips - happy accident!) I was rubbing it on with my fingers and really working it in, applying the paint, then gripping the grips as one would normally, rubbing in and wiping paint off as I went, occasionally sanding a bit on places I knew would be 'wear spots'.

Then came a little bit more India Ink, this time applied to my hand and then rubbed in.

Here's a picture with the browns on the napkin at about 90% complete:
grip3yi0.jpg


I know...weird...but it seems to have worked!

Thanks for reading - hope I helped! :)
 
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i think you may have won the best finish so far man!

heck your RnB finish looks better than my plated finish!
and those grips are awesome!
i wouldnt even bother wiht real one, heck its just a display peice
 
i think you may have won the best finish so far man!

heck your RnB finish looks better than my plated finish!
and those grips are awesome!
i wouldnt even bother wiht real one, heck its just a display peice

Thanks for the glowing praises! I don't know that it looks any better than the plating, but thanks just the same! ;)

It's nice to finally be able to participate/contribute to something on the RPF instead of basically lurking as I have for like eight years!
 
Thanks for the tutorial, Darth Brass. I might use the same method for my pistol, since your's looks so shiny. :thumbsup
 
I tried out Darth Brass' method for myself, and I was very pleased with the result.

83656438.jpg


I was going for a really beat-up look, and it looks much better in person than in the photo. I initially spray painted the grips with Design Master Walnut, which looked fantastic, but too pristine, so I used some fine steel wool to rub off some spots where it was logical for there to be wear. Then I used Darth Brass' sandpaper and india ink method, hitting it again with sandpaper to scuff it up. Great technique!

83656432.jpg
 
wow these are starting to look greall great!!!!

Darth Brass is a genius!!!

I vote we promote him to Jedi Knight!
 
For anyone thinking of adding bullets to the clips, I found a great solution. Go to your local gun shop and have them reload .357 magnum shells without using any powder. It was suggested that Snap Caps would be a good substitute. Dummy real bullets are better, and they don't need to be painted to look like bullets. I got a dozen bullets for $10.00. The .357 magnum bullets fit the clips better than the .38 special.


Grand Pa always knows best
 
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