Warehouse 13 - The Tesla Gun

[Interceptor6]

Good eye! I wonder if they recreated it or took apart an antique...

I'd guess "old parts" anyway, as the tube and muzzle area look all new and shiny! We belong to a muzzle loaders club, and occasionally one of these shows up on the range.

 

[PeterLC]

It seems doubtful we'll be seeing H.G or her little gun again. Who knows what they did with her if bronzing wasn't enough this time.

It seems it was her who got the "Tesla" from Nikola Tesla originally and took it to Warehouse 12 so I expect she had a chance to study it.

Maybe they'll give it to Claudia to complete her set. LOL

really need more shots of that, tempting!

 

[Interceptor6]

Who knows what they did with her if bronzing wasn't enough this time.

Perhaps the Quisinart, on the puree' setting!:love

 

[Clinton]

I thought I would let you know how I'm progressing on my Tesla kit adaptation. Here's a photo of the progress so far:

As I mentioned, I'm using a plastic "Baby Soda Bottle" test tube for the main vacuum tube. Since the tube that came with the kit is a little narrower (although it appears to be the same type of material), I'm using that for the larger vacuum tube on the back. The shorter back tube is another plastic item, cut to size. I'll be creating my own "guts" for the vacuum tubes, trying to replicate the look of the original as much as possible.

One of the major things I still need to do before moving on to priming involves the main cylinder. I need to try to create the inner edges that should frame the dial and meters. The stock kit just has flat sides. I'm going to build these out of wood. Does anyone have any suggestions on what glue will hold the wood firmly on the resin body?

Thanks for the words of encouragement that got me started!

 

[Kylash]

PIH

PIH

the PIH one's tubes look very different possibly a stunt or something

 

[PeterLC]

A two part epoxy glue like Araldite should have no trouble bonding those materials. You might want to rough up the resin a little first. Even a thin layer of liquid nails would work. It sticks just abuot anything but can be a bit messy as it is thick.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what glue will hold the wood firmly on the resin body?

Thanks for the words of encouragement that got me started!

 

[PeterLC]

It might be getting hard to find the original tubes too.

 

[Clinton]

A two part epoxy glue like Araldite should have no trouble bonding those materials. You might want to rough up the resin a little first. Even a thin layer of liquid nails would work. It sticks just about anything but can be a bit messy as it is thick.

Thanks!

 

[PeterLC]

I think there is also a brush on treatment for porous stuff like wood that allows you to use CA (cyanoacrylate) type glues on it.

Thanks!

 

[JOATRASH FX]

So, can anyone recommend suitable close-enough tubes for the back end of the gun?

 

[PeterLC]

Given that the correct tubes are so hard to find, it will be interesting to see what Quantum Mechanix does with its Tesla. I'm damned sure the tubes used won't have any identifying marks but I wonder if they'll be able to get enough of the real tubes or have to make them using glass tubes and some simulated insides.

So, can anyone recommend suitable close-enough tubes for the back end of the gun?

 

[Interceptor6]

So, can anyone recommend suitable close-enough tubes for the back end of the gun?

I've got a friend with a box full of misc tubes. I went thru them once (without a size reference) and picked up a few, but need to get back into the box again! I cut out the frame from thin aluminum, and hope to get a local shop to cut me a few from thicker material.
Aluminum or steel?
1/4" or 3/16"?
Still no luck on the trigger valve(?) I've searched thousands of images and asked dozens of "knowledgable" people, who all have ideas that don't pan out!
Getting closer!!... but s-l-o-w-l-y!

 

[Sara013]

Given that the correct tubes are so hard to find, it will be interesting to see what Quantum Mechanix does with its Tesla. I'm damned sure the tubes used won't have any identifying marks but I wonder if they'll be able to get enough of the real tubes or have to make them using glass tubes and some simulated insides.

I'm sending a bunch of images to my dad.
Up until a few years ago, he owned a repair shop and had zillions of these tubes. Heh, he still might.
He taught me how to wire them up to glow.
(^ is it okay to have image links here?)

I cut out the frame from thin aluminum, and hope to get a local shop to cut me a few from thicker material.
Aluminum or steel?
1/4" or 3/16"?

Aluminum.
Better heat sink for the amount of energy going through it.
(I would go with 1/4".)

 

[PeterLC]

I'm sending a bunch of images to my dad.
Up until a few years ago, he owned a repair shop and had zillions of these tubes. Heh, he still might.

Hopefully he might have a few that will look close enough and maybe want to sell them too. Make a little cash.

He taught me how to wire them up to glow.
(^ is it okay to have image links here?)

It might be hard to fit the necessary parts to power the tube into the Telsa body. I thought about lighting it from behind with bright blue LEDs which are easy to power/pulse with a small battery circuit. Actually don't a lot of these tubes require 6VAC or so to make them glow? If running off batteries you'd need to puty an inverter circuit in the Tesla to supply that. They do look cool though and make a nice converstaion piece.

Yes linking to images that are within the context of the thread is fine. You can also insert a direct link into the message so it appears onscreen as one reads the message. The insert image icon in the message editor looks like a tiny painting/drawing of mountains and a sun.

Aluminum.
Better heat sink for the amount of energy going through it.
(I would go with 1/4".)

It's a tough one. It's very hard to judge the dimensions from the images we have. All we know is it is 8.5" long.

Though one wouldn't want that part to be acting as a heatsink; it would burn one's hand when firing it. Tesla might have been smart enough in his design to not have any of the gun's energy being wasted as heat.

Oh and by the way, welcome to the RPF, Sara.

 

[Interceptor6]

Hi Sara, welcome to the RPF!
I've got a 3'x3' sheet of 1/4" aluminum at hand, so I'm going that route at present. Also got to pick thru 3 shoeboxes of tubes yesterday, and came up with two pair for the rear.
I'll toss a pic and the tube #'s up later, though I think anything "close to size" will be the way to go for now.
I'll also need you and Pete to teach me how to wire them up! I barely believe in electricity as it is. You can't see it, or hit it with a hammer......
Cheers, Jeff

 

[PeterLC]

But it will jump up and bite you on the @%$# if you don't watch out. LOL. And you can hit it with a hammer but you mightn't get to do it twice.

I barely believe in electricity as it is. You can't see it, or hit it with a hammer......
Cheers, Jeff

 

[Sara013]

Thanks for the welcome.
I've been admiring this forum for years, and finally stumbled upon a time to join.

Though one wouldn't want that part to be acting as a heatsink; it would burn one's hand when firing it. Tesla might have been smart enough in his design to not have any of the gun's energy being wasted as heat.

I was mostly kidding about the heat sink thing. I get bored and giddy in the mornings, which leads to my fingers typing whatever they want. Although, it is fairly easy to burn those tubes out due to the amount of heat they produce....

But, really, I figured aluminum would be easier to work with and lighter, which may be a benefit in the long run, considering the brass fittings could get a wee bit heavy.

As for the battery... all the tubes would need is a wee 9volt. I figure that could be nicely hidden between the dial on the one side and the itty bitty meters on the other side. Someone far more clever than I could probably even rig it so the dial closes the circuit. ((scheme))

I'll also need you and Pete to teach me how to wire them up! I barely believe in electricity as it is. You can't see it, or hit it with a hammer......

I'm with ya on that one, Jeff. Although, you can see it... if... you tilt your head... juuuuust right........ But electricity is the debil's tool. (Personally, I religiously disbelieve physics.)

Now I have to find my old tube wiring diagrams... ((grumble, grumble))

--S

 

[ATimeForHeroics]

Forgive me if this has already been covered, but to me they look like they took the innards of real tubes and put them in acrylic/glass sleeves. I've done electronics work for a few years, and I don't recall seeing tubes that had such a crisp seam on the silver portion. Also, on the front tube you can see that the innards aren't physically connected to the rear of the tube, indicating that the tube we're looking for is actually a shorter tube that's been re-used and modified. Anyone else see what looks like a seam at the edge of the silver on the tubes?

EDIT: I made up this crude diagram to show what I mean.

 

[Interceptor6]

Thanks ATFH, I've had my doubts about the front tube being complete, though hadn't seen the wire tails! I never liked that it disappeared into the brass like it does. The back ones look like they mount properly into the bases on at least one of the guns.

 

[Clinton]

Gee, suddenly I feel a teeny tiny bit better about the way I'm needing to create the tubes for my gun. (mostly cardboard and thin wire for the "guts.")

This did raise a question in my mind though. Are there hazardous materials in the vacuum tubes? Do they have mercury or other nasty things?