WannaWanga ANH Graflex Configuration

...okay, that’s better. Applied the grips and rivets to the new bottom tube. The gap between the grips and the clamp looks much better and less obvious than the previous effort. The grips are properly wonky in their lengths and spacing, thanks to Roy’s awesome guide. And, interestingly, the clamp can still be removed from the lower tube without having to disassemble it. Aesthetically speaking, I prefer the grips sitting flush against the clamp, but the reference images (and the practical aspect of being able to disassemble the prop) show that very slight gap.

Now, all that remains is that stamped sidebar, and then I’ll finally have this replica where I want it. Well, maybe after Rebelscum does another bubblestrip run, but my current strip is still perfectly viable. And maybe after replacing the TGS clamp lever with Roman’s, although I need to research the proper shape of the vintage levers, first.

533EF816-409A-423B-A84D-6184CB69D28C.jpeg
 
The gap between the grips and the clamp looks much better and less obvious than the previous effort.View attachment 1242720


Looks great! One question though: all the reference photos on The Graflex Bank make it look like the grips should be up against the clamp. However your latest build, and the WannaWanga blueprint have a gap, what is this based on?
 
View attachment 1088889


If you look carefully at the reference images, there IS a slight gap between the grips and the clamp.

For my build, I measured and cut the grips out to pretty much the exact specs of Roy's grip guide/3-D modeling, and the result matches his blueprints perfectly. I wasn't expecting to still be able to remove the clamp, so that's an unexpected bonus. If this was the same with the original prop, it makes sense, in terms of ease of disassembly/maintenance.

I also think that the clamp lever washer was removed and the lever tightened that extra turn so that the clamp would grip onto the tube halves VERY securely. That, plus the four mystery rivets on the tube (presumably added to make sure the d-ring and endcap stayed in place) all indicate that the prop was built with the rigors or production in mind. Possibly because it was (somehow) the ONLY hero prop, and therefore needed to stay intact.
 
I would like to see more. Only one image here? You state adding the 4 rivets which are not shown. How about a more detailed image of the rear and rivets? Thanks...
 
There's only one known image of the four rivets, and two images featuring the smaller two of the four rivets. Not much reference to go on, but it was enough for Roy to extrapolate his 3-D model.
 
There's only one known image of the four rivets, and two images featuring the smaller two of the four rivets. Not much reference to go on, but it was enough for Roy to extrapolate his 3-D model.

He's asking you to take a picture of your flex with the four rivets showing...
 
Correct, I want to see your install on this. That one image does not show anything related to the rivets. Thanks...
 
Hello all,

First off, hats of to roygilsing for making such an incredible guide and providing us with the means to make our own replicas, as accurate as possible. Your dedication and attention to detail is inspiring.

I recently purchased a vintage Graflex, not a Folmer but a Graflex Inc, and I intend to convert it to ANH version. I am by no means as knowledgeable as most on these forums about the specific details so I'd like your opinion. I don't have the money to buy the original parts so I'm going to use Roy's replica parts (which look incredible by the way). Would it be sacrilege to modify a vintage Graflex without replicating it accurately (I'm certain I would probably not be 100% accurate)? Or should I just go for it and have fun? :) Just curious to know what you people think.




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I'll snap a photo when I get a chance, George. Although my previous attempt is shown, a few pages back.

And DFC--if you're concerned about harming your vintage, there are ways to convert it without making permanent changes. Just use E6000 glue (which is tough-but-removable) to adhere the grips, d-ring bracket, and rivets. You just have the cut off the heads of the rivets and glue them on, rather than drilling holes in the flash tube and actually riveting them in. As noted, I E6000ed my grips on, but was still able to remove them with ease and re-glue them onto a new bottom tube.
 
Also, if you want to convert the vintage to a proper ANH version, you should grab a Folmer glass eye replica from THE GRAFLEX SHOP, and maybe a Folmer-stamped bottom half replica, too. We're still not sure which version(s) of the flash was used for the prop, but most people now lean toward Folmer or late-Folmer with patent number. Some people think the parts may have been mixed and matched, but I find that kinda unlikely.

Correct me if I'm wrong, experts, but the endcap tube-rolling is the current reason why some people think the bottom tube is a Folmer with patent, yes? TGS is currently offering only Folmer-stamped bottoms (without patent), but they've indicated that this may change.

The type of endcap/stamping (and its orientation) seems to be the final mystery of this iconic prop.
 
...Correct me if I'm wrong, experts, but the endcap tube-rolling is the current reason why some people think the bottom tube is a Folmer with patent, yes? TGS is currently offering only Folmer-stamped bottoms (without patent), but they've indicated that this may change.

The type of endcap/stamping (and its orientation) seems to be the final mystery of this iconic prop.

It is the edge rolling that is the source of the current thinking on the ANH but it is for the early thin-lipped non-patent Folmer variation. I'm not 100% convinced of this myself having played around with trying to replicate the effect in the toe photo with all of the variations and not come up with conclusive results. That said i'm on board enough that I'm also using a Graflex Shop end cap for mine :)
 
Hello all,

First off, hats of to roygilsing for making such an incredible guide and providing us with the means to make our own replicas, as accurate as possible. Your dedication and attention to detail is inspiring.

I recently purchased a vintage Graflex, not a Folmer but a Graflex Inc, and I intend to convert it to ANH version. I am by no means as knowledgeable as most on these forums about the specific details so I'd like your opinion. I don't have the money to buy the original parts so I'm going to use Roy's replica parts (which look incredible by the way). Would it be sacrilege to modify a vintage Graflex without replicating it accurately (I'm certain I would probably not be 100% accurate)? Or should I just go for it and have fun? :) Just curious to know what you people think.




View attachment 1243131View attachment 1243133View attachment 1243134View attachment 1243135View attachment 1243136
Just go and have fun my friend it's yours at the end of the day!

It is the edge rolling that is the source of the current thinking on the ANH but it is for the early thin-lipped non-patent Folmer variation. I'm not 100% convinced of this myself having played around with trying to replicate the effect in the toe photo with all of the variations and not come up with conclusive results. That said i'm on board enough that I'm also using a Graflex Shop end cap for mine :)
Honstly I've never seen a thin lipped Folmer patent and I've seen a fair few tubes, plus as if you wouldn't want the rarest variant of these things to be the hero!
 
It is the edge rolling that is the source of the current thinking on the ANH but it is for the early thin-lipped non-patent Folmer variation. I'm not 100% convinced of this myself having played around with trying to replicate the effect in the toe photo with all of the variations and not come up with conclusive results. That said i'm on board enough that I'm also using a Graflex Shop end cap for mine :)


Cool. I tend to think that it if walks like a non-patent Folmer and talks like a non-patent Folmer, it’s probably a non-patent Folmer. It has the early Folmer glass eye, and the half-knurl button (as seen on the FX stunt version) could easily have been swapped out for a full-knurl, perhaps for aesthetic reasons.
 
And DFC--if you're concerned about harming your vintage, there are ways to convert it without making permanent changes. Just use E6000 glue (which is tough-but-removable) to adhere the grips, d-ring bracket, and rivets. You just have the cut off the heads of the rivets and glue them on, rather than drilling holes in the flash tube and actually riveting them in. As noted, I E6000ed my grips on, but was still able to remove them with ease and re-glue them onto a new bottom tube.

Thanks for the input Gregatron. I'll definitely use E6000 as I may want to redo it in the future. Epoxy would be a pain to take off. I'll have to look at the Folmer glass eye and stamped bottom tube. I don't have a large budget for this project so I may pass on those for now, but I will keep them in mind if I return to this lightsaber.

I say go for it and have fun (y)

Was the original prop made from a vintage Graflex?

Yes, it was.

Did you just acquire a vintage Graflex?

Yes, you did.

End of story.

Ha, true. I may very well do so. It's amazing the level of detail people are committing to this prop and that really inspires me to do the same. Like Gregatron mentioned, I think I will use E6000 so I won't permanently change the flash and I can always come back to it to change it.

Just go and have fun my friend it's yours at the end of the day!

You're right! I should just go for it. Thanks. :)
 
...okay, that’s better. Applied the grips and rivets to the new bottom tube. The gap between the grips and the clamp looks much better and less obvious than the previous effort. The grips are properly wonky in their lengths and spacing, thanks to Roy’s awesome guide. And, interestingly, the clamp can still be removed from the lower tube without having to disassemble it. Aesthetically speaking, I prefer the grips sitting flush against the clamp, but the reference images (and the practical aspect of being able to disassemble the prop) show that very slight gap.

Now, all that remains is that stamped sidebar, and then I’ll finally have this replica where I want it. Well, maybe after Rebelscum does another bubblestrip run, but my current strip is still perfectly viable. And maybe after replacing the TGS clamp lever with Roman’s, although I need to research the proper shape of the vintage levers, first.

View attachment 1242720
Looks stellar to me.

I would also like to see your side rivets, but I came here to say thank you for the support. I forgot about your grip thing and it's encouraging to see the finished product
 
First off, hats of to roygilsing for making such an incredible guide and providing us with the means to make our own replicas, as accurate as possible. Your dedication and attention to detail is inspiring.

You are welcome! It's great to see people building their ANH versions!

Or should I just go for it and have fun? :)

YESSS! Just go for it! Your Graflex looks nice and weathered. It's asking to be converted! And you will never turn it back to its original state. Why would you? It's the most iconic prop in movie history!
 
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