TPM VD Yoda Lightsaber Prop

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by seven, Jun 27, 2006.

  1. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    Provided by the POSW, Yodas Lightsaber from the Visual Dictionary was made from:

    1. Praco Flashmaker flashgun (center band, shround, brass screw, end cap)
    2. PEM self-clinching nut (part #CLA-440-2)
    3. Fujimi 1/16 Lamborghini Countach LP500S front tire rim (Emitter)
    4. Monogram 1/12 1967 Corvette (not verified) Oil Pan (Activation Switch)
    5. 1/2" Double Stick foam tape w/paper on, molded and cast in rubber (grips)
    6. Flathead oval screw 1/2" long 2-56 thread (hold down Lamborghini Rim)
    7. 1/8"(ish) long Screw to hold down PEM nut (4-40 thread)

    I heard a rumor that the flashgun was a Bolsey flashgun (type 1 or ). During my search for the parts, I purchased a Monogram 1/2 1967 Corvette model. It was a three in one kit, however it did not have the correct oil pan Activator switch, so I believe that I got the incorrect model. I also aquired a 1/16 Lamborghini Countach model, but the style of the model I got is also incorrect.

    Anyone have any information to the which specific models where used?
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2007
  2. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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    A Praco was used although a Bolsey can be a good substitute. The Bolsey is a mirror image of the Praco and has the wrong endcap.
    The vette info came direct from Steve D. who made the prop, but I think he may have been mistaken since it was just in a pile of parts.
    The Lamborghini info should be correct although I never had to buy the model myself.
    The nut and grips are for absolutely correct.
     
  3. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    The 1/16 Lamborghini Countach funjimi that I picked up has a similar rim to the original but with some minor differences.

    From Ed's photos, the five wholes in the rim are extruded from the face of the wheel. This characteristic does not seem common is all Lamborghini wheels.

    The scale for the Corrvette seems a bit big for the size of the saber, anyone find a scale/model that is a closer match?
     
  4. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Weren't the grips from Blast-Tech, but with the fins cut off/sanded down?
     
  5. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'></div>
    I believe that was how Viper made his when he was making the saber.

    I found one model with the correct style of hub for the emitter. It is from a

    Fujimi '77 Lamborghini Countach LP500S 1:16 kit. This kit has the correct style of face, as the

    Fujimi '88 Lamborghini Countach 5000 1:16 kit (which is the one I got), does not.

    So I will see if I can pick up a LP500S kit and compare the hub with the saber.
     
  6. xwingband

    xwingband Active Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(Darth Lars @ Jun 28 2006, 11:56 AM) [snapback]1269858[/snapback]</div>
    From the ASAP defined thread... from steve himself.

    "The grips were originally cast in a hard resin (by me) from aluminum master patterns machined by my shop. I made the rubber molds from these metal masters and cast the grips. Ed didn't like the hard resin grips, so a few weeks later, I recast another set for him in a dark gray/ black resin with a 60 durometer hardness. He attached those himself. As opposed to what someone on the RPF recently said, the grips were never flat. The master patterns were machined to match the curvature of the 1 1/8" tube from the beginning."

    While the other stuff he said is more suspect on it's accuracy (even though he built it, lol) I don't think that can be mistaken that it was custom.
     
  7. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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  8. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks. I stand corrected. I might have been confused by a replica build on this forum. :$
     
  9. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(lonepigeon @ Jun 28 2006, 07:04 PM) [snapback]1270409[/snapback]</div>

    Thats Awsome.

    Would you mind sharing the dimentions for the grips? PM works too =)
     
  10. ed-209

    ed-209 Sr Member

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    "The grips were originally cast in a hard resin (by me) from aluminum master patterns machined by my shop. I made the rubber molds from these metal masters and cast the grips. Ed didn't like the hard resin grips, so a few weeks later, I recast another set for him in a dark gray/ black resin with a 60 durometer hardness. He attached those himself"

    Hmmm...not really correct...
    Steve originally added double-stick foam strips, with the white paper still on the surface, as grips.
    I had a set of the rubber grips he had originally cast and used for his Darth Vader grips. I cut these down and replaced the foam grips he put on the sabre.
    Ed

    Here is a photo of Steve’s “Hardware” sabres showing the original grips on the Yoda sabre

    [​IMG]
     
  11. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    Thank you very much Ed for sharing.

    I was trying to do a little scaling of the photos provided to get a "guess-tamate" on the size of the grips. I am guessing the uncut grips would be around:

    5 3/4" long cut in four equal sections (1 7/16" ea)
    1/2" wide,
    1/10 to 1/8" thick
    1 1/2" Diameter


    Does that sound right?
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2014
  12. UnitPD

    UnitPD Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have a completed yoda saber for sale, made from the correct parts if interested.
     
  13. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    The center band is exactly 1 1/2" in length.

    The activator switch looks like it might be an 1/8" shorter.
     
  14. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    I ordered a Bolsey on ebay for $10.00 (great price if I do say so myself)

    It came with a few surprises.
    The emitter is actually part of the flash itself. It was revealed when I took off the center band from its original location on top. I was thinking it had to be fabricated from scratch. Glad I don't have too.

    I also noticed the black plate under the hub cap is already there. However it appears to be a weak paper like material. Making another on out of metal would be better. The plate is held down by a single screw down the center that appears to have been removed from the original and replaced with a longer screw to hold down the lamborgini hub.

    The camera attachment bracket will have to be drilled off as is it riveted on. I will also need to aquire a more accurate base.

    The band around the center is plastic, and sure tight fit. I will have to cut a notch in the front to accomodate the side knub looking thing.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  15. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    Me all excited with my new bolsey, I tried to put on the Funjimi 1/16 Lamborghini Countach hub for the emitter. It would not slide in at first, but with a little expanding of the emitter shroud, it fit like a glove.

    It seems to be a perfect fit.

    The 1/16 hub is the correct scale. The 1/24 scale of the same model is far too small.

    I also noticed another difference in the band (I am not sure if it is Praco specific or a modifiction). My band has a slight curve at each end. In the photos, provided by Ed, shows the center band to be flat on each end.

    Was each end cut to give it a flat surface or just a manufacturing difference between the Praco and the Bolsey?
     
  16. seven

    seven Sr Member

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  17. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    I feel compelled to whine about this every time a yoda VD (hee hee) saber comes up (also hee hee).

    I bought a Praco in a local antique store for 5 bucks after lurking in the prop world for years. It was my first saber/prop ever. I got a viper resin wheel and made a scratchbuilt activator (my first scratchbuild) that was a little closer to the real deal.

    Then I sold it.

    Meathead.

    I love this saber. It started a five year obsession with props and models. As far as I'm concerned, this IS Yoda's saber. The film version is just a poorly done CG version.

    I wish someone would do a run of replica Pracos and parts. I mean, with all the Parks flash reps so easily available, it seems a shame not to see at least a limited production of these little gems.
     
  18. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(cayman shen @ Aug 4 2006, 06:27 PM) [snapback]1294210[/snapback]</div>
    I agree. It seems like such an easy little flash unit to make compared to the graflex or MPP. It would doubly be nice if parts where made so those whom have a Bosley ;) can update their incorrect black battery base.
     
  19. lesternessman

    lesternessman Well-Known Member

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    I agree...this one is far more appealing to look at than the CG counterpart from AOTC and ROTS. The only thing I would add is a green crystals in the emitter since there are holes to accommodate and some battle damage to mimic the ROTS look. I do however like the activator box from the other sabers...
     
  20. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    OK, I'll go with that. The CG activation switch is much cooler.
     
  21. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    OK, Seven I know we've been PMing, but I thought I'd throw out a public comment for anyone who's interested:

    I'm concerned that the Bolsey doesn't have the correct brass screw/nut holding the emitter. Does anyone have pics? Do any real Praco owners have the prop love to blueprint this piece? I need to know if I can live with a Bolsey or not.
     
  22. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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    Here's a closeup of the screw I think you're talking about:
    [​IMG]
    That brass screw is very different than the one on the Bolsey.

    There are lots of pics of the original prop at The Parts of Star Wars.
    http://www.partsofsw.com/Ep_1/ysab_gal/ysab_gall.htm

    If you're concerned about the screw on top (round head, slotted, brass) - it's the same screw on both the Praco and Bolsey. I'm not sure if they replaced that one to attach the wheel.
     
  23. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    The Brass screw does not come stock for the Bolsey model. It would need to be replaced with the correct style.

    I am not sure if it was added on to Praco as a beefier screw or if it is an original screw.
     
  24. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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    The brass screw shown is the one that comes with the Praco.
    The Bolsey has a slotted round head screw with a washer.
     
  25. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    Thanks Lonepigeon. Yes, I like the screw that holds the emitter far better on the Praco. Is this a found item or made specifically for Praco? I'm guessing the latter. Would anybody be willing to post specs, including threading info? Does anyone know if a manufatured one would even WORK on a Bolsey (ie is there space?). Honestly, it looks like something that looked very close could be fashioned at home with hand tools and a little TLC. Or am I mad?

    I guess I'm just wondering how much of a compromise the Bolsey is. It's a mirror image, the brass shroud screw is different...are any of the emitter bakelite components significantly different?

    Other differences?
     
  26. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    Here is another picture of the Bolsey that I ordered. I removed the flash bracket, and slipped on the centerband upside down. I also cut the notch for the side knob thingy.

    You can see that the extra PEM nut will have to be either glued to the top or you will need to drill a hole and screw it down from the inside of the tube. I am not sure if the Praco already has this option available, but it would have to be modified for the Bosley.

    The brass screw is different too. Mine did not have a washer with the screw.It also appears that the emitter shroud may have to be slid back.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  27. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    Yeah, maybe move the shroud back and drill a hole to insert the screw the PEM nut goes onto. Is the Bolsey the same length? Seven, I'm emailing you the Praco blueprint. Can you PM me a few measurement comparisons?

    Anyone want to host a Darth Saber blueprint of the VD? It's a great bp for reference and manufacture, should some kind soul do a Praco run. What the heck, maybe I'll get and interest thread going...
     
  28. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    I found a company that is selling the PEM 440-2 nut and will recieve it shortly.

    Does anyone know if the Praco was modified to accomidate the nut?

    [​IMG]
     
  29. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    There was already a hole in the Praco. I THINK that when I did mine I had to find a screw to poke up through to thread the nut to, but I could be mistaken. The hole was definitely there, though. I think you have to drill the Bolsey, right?
     
  30. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    I recieved 7 PEM nuts today. They are alot smaller than I thought they would be.
    Now I just have to find a small thread screw to bolt it down from the inside. It would have to be really small as it does not appear to stick out past the nut at all and the inner guts might also hinder its placement and size.
     
  31. propsculptor

    propsculptor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    YODA:
    "Judge my Lightsaber by it's size...you must not, for if you do... then Sliced in half you wil be". :D
     
  32. LastODJedi

    LastODJedi New Member

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    Yes, the CG is cooler. But having the oil pan on mine just makes me happy. It is one of the few of mine that isn't a Master Replicas version.
     
  33. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    Anyone know the correct model for the Oil pan?
     
  34. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    I've seen a LOT of resin oil pans, but none of them look like the real deal. The real one, as seen on POSW, shows the lower box portion having a sloped, I dunno what to call it--a ridge. All the oil pans I've seen are basically squared off.

    Am I making sense?
     
  35. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    It also appears to have the Oil drain plug in the dead center of the pan. I have only seen ones what were on the sides.

    If it is a corvette model it should be a give away to the year as it is not common for a center drain.
     
  36. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    Whoo Hoo. Finally some progress on this Saber.

    I was able to acquire a 1/16 Fujimi '77 Lamborghini Countach LP500S Model. Its No. is RC-102. The model has the capacity to have a motor installed with working head and tail lights. Needless to say, it's a big model. It also has come with three wheel rims for the front tire. Two for the car and one for the spare.

    Here is my PEM nut before it is installed.

    Do to Russrep and the current interest thread in the junkyard, I was able to get a replica end cap to replace the incorrect style of the Bolsey.

    What do you think? Does it look like the correct hub cap for the emitter?
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  37. ed-209

    ed-209 Sr Member

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    What do you think? Does it look like the correct hub cap for the emitter?
    [/quote]

    Here is a photo of my ACTUAL Yoda lightsaber used in the VD.
    I'd say you found it....
    It's identical to the one I have.
    ed-209


    [​IMG]
     
  38. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(ed-209 @ Oct 26 2006, 05:01 PM) [snapback]1345595[/snapback]</div>
    Glad to hear that.
     
  39. SirJediKnightTim

    SirJediKnightTim Well-Known Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(seven @ Oct 26 2006, 09:41 PM) [snapback]1345648[/snapback]</div>
    Glad to hear that.
    [/b][/quote]


    Hey seven, how are you going to install the emitter? Your not going to glue it are you? Is there a way to screw it in somehow? (Nice job so far by the way.)
     
  40. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    It appears that I would have to drill a small hole into the center of the rim. There is a screw already in the center of the Bolsey and the Praco, so I could just use the same screw or a longer one and tighen it in place.

    Looking at the rims more closely, the two rear tire rims do not have the same profile so it is certainly not the one used.

    The spare tire rim is actually a slightly smaller diameter then the two front tire rims. Otherwise it would be identical to them.

    I have been getting alot of interest in the other rim. However I do not have any intention in selling it. I have already promised it to cayman shen long ago.

    But it may make its way to Russrep first to help with the VD Yoda Emitter Interest thread currently in the junkyard. :thumbsup

    http://www.therpf.com/index.php?showtopic=118608
     
  41. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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    The center screw that holds the emitter on is new. The original Praco screw is too short and has the wrong shaped head.
    The correct screw is an oval head machine screw 2-56 threaded 1/2" long.
     
  42. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(lonepigeon @ Oct 27 2006, 09:59 PM) [snapback]1346360[/snapback]</div>
    Sweet.

    I just tried to screw it down last night with the original screw, and yes it was just too short. And I agree the head does look wrong.

    Off to the work shop I go to find some screws
     
  43. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    On a side note, to all those whom are intersted in the wheel rim, I sent it to russrep this morning and he should get it in about a week. He will be machinining it out of black anodized aluminum so we can have a more acqurate wheel for everyone. So go hit the sign up list in the junkyard.

    Hope yah don't mind, but I made some ruff side-by-side shots
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  44. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    Just some horribly washed out photos of the emitter "installed"
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
  45. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    Oh man, I could not wait till I got this to share...

    I can only hope it is the right one.

    One can only tell once I have it in my hands,

    but look what I just bought off eBay
     
  46. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(seven @ Nov 9 2006, 05:30 AM) [snapback]1353904[/snapback]</div>
    Actually it's the wrong flash - sorry.
    If you look at the black band you'll see that the two plug slots are horizontal instead of vertical.
    With some work you might be able to modify it to look closer- hard to tell until it's taken apart.
    If nothing else the endcap is correct.
     
  47. seven

    seven Sr Member

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    I just noticed that. Well it may have other things besides the end cap, slotted brass screw possibly.

    I am convinced that the oil pan is from a 1/16 model due to its size (1 1/2"). I had a 1/12 and it was just too big. So in my search for a Monogram 1/16 Corvette, I have learned from the Revell/Monogram customer servise, that Monogram never made a 1/16 scale Corvette.

    This is going to be a bit more difficult to find now...
     
  48. SirJediKnightTim

    SirJediKnightTim Well-Known Member

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    Please post photos of the grips when you make them. I need some advice on how to make mine too.

    <div class='quotetop'>(seven @ Nov 9 2006, 01:08 AM) [snapback]1353930[/snapback]</div>
     
  49. lonepigeon

    lonepigeon Sr Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(SirJediKnightTim @ Nov 13 2006, 05:51 AM) [snapback]1356453[/snapback]</div>
    Grips should be easy to do.
    The original grips are .1 inch thick rubber, 1/2" wide.
    They should be 1 7/16" long, but I haven't cut mine yet.
    Perhaps Ed can confirm the length?

    Finding suitable rubber sheeting should be easy enough.
    Just cout out some rectangles.
    Fun Foam might be a decent alternative material too.
     
  50. SirJediKnightTim

    SirJediKnightTim Well-Known Member

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    How many sixteenths of an inch is .1 in thick?

    I'm considering finding some hose that is large enough to stick the bolsey into, and that would give me the right contour on the hose.

    <div class='quotetop'>(lonepigeon @ Nov 13 2006, 01:28 AM) [snapback]1356460[/snapback]</div>
    Grips should be easy to do.
    The original grips are .1 inch thick rubber, 1/2" wide.
    They should be 1 7/16" long, but I haven't cut mine yet.
    Perhaps Ed can confirm the length?

    Finding suitable rubber sheeting should be easy enough.
    Just cout out some rectangles.
    Fun Foam might be a decent alternative material too.
    [/b][/quote]
     

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