Tomenosuke 2049 Kit - Sharing some mods and my Blade Runner Blaster journey

[Neon Nautilus]

stunning, I'm waiting on a metal cylinder to finish off my blaster and then its on to a stand/case. Im also considering doing something really crazy since I live in the southern U.S and buying an original charter arms revolver, de-milling it and putting it in my blaster to make it perfect.

Thanks CreechMagoo! Real gun parts would be awesome. I can only dream of being able to do that living in the UK

 

[Neon Nautilus]

Hi All!

For those that are interested, I've posted a thread in the Project Runs Forum offering my Blaster Display Stands for sale.

 

[Leinads]

stunning, I'm waiting on a metal cylinder to finish off my blaster and then its on to a stand/case. Im also considering doing something really crazy since I live in the southern U.S and buying an original charter arms revolver, de-milling it and putting it in my blaster to make it perfect.

Again just beautiful. You could also convert it to an airsoft. A lot of options out there

 

[CreechMagoo]

Again just beautiful. You could also convert it to an airsoft. A lot of options out there

yeah but real bullets can stop real replicants, its not 2049 yet so we don't know

 

[BeastMaster]

Really fantastic build guide! I had no idea there were so many issues. Some really useful mod ideas. thanks for sharing. Which version of the Kit was this? I have my first release version kit still unassembled in the box. I am a little apprehensive to build it until I can get a proper workshop space. My main concern above all is the blueing of the receiver. Seems very tricky to get a satisfactory result. Can you shed any light on your experience on that?

 

[Neon Nautilus]

Really fantastic build guide! I had no idea there were so many issues. Some really useful mod ideas. thanks for sharing. Which version of the Kit was this? I have my first release version kit still unassembled in the box. I am a little apprehensive to build it until I can get a proper workshop space. My main concern above all is the blueing of the receiver. Seems very tricky to get a satisfactory result. Can you shed any light on your experience on that?

Thanks BeastMaster, happy to help in any way I can!
Mine was the 2049 Assembly Kit from a run released in early 2019.

My first bit of advice, get that kit out of the box and put it together asap! At the absolute least you just need a desk with a bit of old sheet over it.
The great thing about these kits is that so long as you're careful not to overtighten parts you can put them together and take them apart multiple times. Nothing is permanently affixed, its all screwed or pinned together.

Get a feel for how everything goes together and see if there is anything you don't like the look of. There might be things you want to mod or you might be totally happy with it as is. It's the experience you want from the object that matters. Your's may differ from mine.

So, ref the bluing, it was the first time I'd ever done it, there were plenty of mistakes and it took several goes to get a finish I was happy with.

I did try the method detailed on the back of the assembly instructions that come with the kit first. I didn't have a lot of joy with it but I think that may be because I was impatient and had not got the mirror finish needed in the prep.

Here's my top tips anyway:

• The preparation of the parts is the most important thing, they must be super smooth. Wet sand first 600 -> 800 -> 1200 -> 1500 -> 2000 -> 2500 then 0000 steel wool. Then polish with something like Mother's Mag. This part needs a lot of time and effort to get right but it saves 3 times as much effort in the long run. The more of a mirror finish you have the better the bluing result.
• Make sure there are NO deep scratches. They will show when you apply the bluing fluid.
• BE REALLY careful not to round out the lovely sharp edges on the receiver when sanding. Use a sanding block or sticks. (I'd love to be able to go back and tell past me this!)
• Put the bolt assembly into the receiver when you sand so it sits perfectly flush when finished.
• I tried Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black to start with but didn't get on with it. Although I did apply that before learning the 'make sure you can see your face in it first' lesson. Having said that I think I did use it on the bulldog grip frame and slotted side cover screw with good results.
• I found Birchwood Casey Perma Blue easier to use but that could also be because I'd gained more experience.
• I used Birchwood Casey Swauber Applicators to apply the fluid with good results.
• From now on put on some nitrile gloves and keep them on as touching the metal will affect the bluing.
• Soak all parts in warm soapy water and scrub with something that won't scratch them. Rinse thoroughly so no trace of detergent. Then dry with paper towel. Wipe with acetone or 99% alcohol then wipe with dry paper towel.
• Do the bluing near the kitchen sink, have paper towels to hand, whatever your applying the liquid with and all the parts you need. You don't want to be hunting around for anything from now on.
• Have something to hold the small parts with like wooden skewers and a plastic tub that you can rest the receiver onto.
• Wear gloves, have some ventilation and clean surfaces after as the bluing fluid is not good for health.
• Take a deep breath and your time.
• Apply the fluid neat with a swauber quickly and evenly across the metal. Leave a few seconds then gently rub the swauber all over until the colour starts to look more even. Don't overdo this.
• Set aside, the part and leave for 1 minute then rinse off with fresh water from the tap and dry with towel.
• Move onto the next part and repeat until you are happy with the finish. If you've finished the plastic bulldog frame/barrel part first (wire wool can make thsi look like steel) then you can use that as a guide for the metal colour/tone.
• You will find that a light polishing a few hours after the application of the fluid can even out the colour.
• Don't try and touch up areas you don't like as it can make the colour go very wrong. You're better off redoing it all.
• The one thing I found that I couldn't get away from was a sort of very fine pitting on the surface after bluing. All I can think is that the zinc alloy used on the parts does not really work perfectly with the bluing fluid. Or it wasn't smooth enough.
• If daunted start on a part like the hammer as it's mostly hidden and is the same metal as the receiver (on my edition of the kit anyway).
• The finish can be weathered back a little with white vinegar.

Hope that helps in some way!

PS: BUILD IT!

 

[BeastMaster]

Thanks man! Plenty of useful information to follow, really appreciate you taking the time to write it all out step by step for myself and any future kit builders. Yeah I guess it's a matter of time and patience with this one, especially as you said with the fine sanding and polishing. I've had that aluminium black sitting in the cupboard for 10 years or so, not sure if it has a use by date Your blaster looks amazing and I'm bookmarking this page for when I can get the kit out of storage. As you mentioned just assembling it and getting to know how it all fits is a good start.

 

[Neon Nautilus]

Thanks man! Plenty of useful information to follow, really appreciate you taking the time to write it all out step by step for myself and any future kit builders. Yeah I guess it's a matter of time and patience with this one, especially as you said with the fine sanding and polishing. I've had that aluminium black sitting in the cupboard for 10 years or so, not sure if it has a use by date Your blaster looks amazing and I'm bookmarking this page for when I can get the kit out of storage. As you mentioned just assembling it and getting to know how it all fits is a good start.

Hey, no worries, you're very welcome. Let me know if you come up against any other questions at all!