Tips from Newbie to Newbies (on foam build - for now)

Do you use regular elmer's glue for PVA, or is there a special/better one? I'm almost there and am looking at ordering some PVA/smooth-cast 65d so when it gets here I'm ready for it!
 
regular PVA (brand: Elmer) should be fine. Just dilute it with 50:50 ratio with water for at least first and second coat.
I use roof sealant (brand: SIKA or similar), based on JFcustom suggestion, price about the same, except this will not be sticky when in contact with water after during. Some can be diluted, some don't (refer to directions of use).

I am not sure how it react to smoothcast.
 
regular PVA (brand: Elmer) should be fine. Just dilute it with 50:50 ratio with water for at least first and second coat.
I use roof sealant (brand: SIKA or similar), based on JFcustom suggestion, price about the same, except this will not be sticky when in contact with water after during. Some can be diluted, some don't (refer to directions of use).

I am not sure how it react to smoothcast.

hI!
When you paint it with "sika" , do you seal it with modpodge or PVA or not??
Regards!
 
SIKA is the seal. it is alternative to PVA.
I haven't try modge pot, I don't have access to it.
 
So I'm just prototyping everything in cardstock before going to foam.

I have an issue with the forearm, the lower part doesn't seem to fit with the upper forearm piece... there's a huge gap!
I don't want to rescale the whole thing since the upper part fits perfectly, and I don't want to make the lower part bigger because then it creates too much space with my wrist.

Will this prob just go away once I go to foam? Or did I do something wrong here?

http://i.imgur.com/tBYon7b.jpg
 
I just put several pieces of foam to block the gap from the inside.
You can freehand it to make the wrist smaller too.
 
I am very disappointed in my forearm. I built one and it was less than satisfactory. I am now redoing the forearm from scratch. I'll give it to imim2 and see what he thinks. If someone could take the original and scale it around the X and Y, maybe it would work. But I am just going to redo it.
 
Here is what I did for my forearm. I place a piece of foam to block/close the gap. This one on the bottom, same as on the top.
Hope that is satisfactory.
 
Tip #26 Undershirt glowing arc reactor

Recently I made Tony Stark underarmor T-shirt.
First, I just print the arc. But when I wanted to make the arc glow, I made a simple one from foam, and I wanted to share with you.

So the arc will stick to the singlet using magnet. A T-shirt then worn over everything.
super-hero-shirts-im3-mos-tasm-more-glowing-arc2.jpg-150212d1363567580

The thickness of this is only 3/4 inch, even pretty low profile for a small body like me.

The whole thing is fairly cheap. I can make it from acrylic sheet, but it just make the cost higher. I also found a LED strip that only have 3-4mm width, so I can make it thinner. Or, the LED that already have a ring PCB on it (see picture, this was my old Mk6 arc er..unibeam)

Hope this is helpful.
 
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Tip #27: Making Low temp Glue gun

I couldn't find temp controlled or low temp glue gun. If there is, the price is probably very expensive. I forgot who I got this idea from (definitely is not mine), so I can't give any proper credit.

I got a problem using glue gun and extra dripping (see my thread regarding glue gun). Cutting the glue stick (per XRobots suggestion) really helps.
However, during foam building, my glue gun tends to get really hot, the glue becomes bubbly, and the foam somewhat "melted" too. So from time to time, I have to plug out and plug in.

Using a light dimmer help me to control how much "heat" it required. And I just use my standard glue gun.
I used an outbow type (with plastic box) for the dimmer and electrical outlet, so it is safe(r).

WARNING: if yo do not have electrical knowledge/skill or if your country not allowing to tamper with electrical connections, please do not do this.
 
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Pretty slick idea; the 2 temp glue guns are about $10 at Walmart that I use. But great solution to a problem!!!
 
I put the glossary on the first page. I sometime having a a hard time looking for specific tip.

Tip #28 Protect you thumb

IIRC, I already mentioned to use scrap foam to wipe excess hot glue instead of using your thumb.
Another way is to wrap the thumb or other fingers using masking tape.
You'll loose the feel, but no need to find scrap foamies.

I tried paper build (hybrid actually) again today, and use superglue.
I hate the fact that my fingers got dirty by superglue.
So I just wrap it with masking tape, and change occasionally.
Or vinyl tape, magic transparent tape, depending your preferences.
To remove superglue from the skin/fingers, use soap and scour pad (thingy for dish washing).
Works like a magic. Best is to use new one because the abrasive is still sharp.
 
I was making the Mk39 helmet, cod and 2 hips when I finished a bottle of superglue.
However, it was about a quarter left when I started using it for this.
I buy this for less than a dollar per bottle.

I am not using paper (or cardstock). I use duplex carton (similar to cereal box). It is much thicker.
Not sure if superglue for cardstock, definitely not 80gsm paper.
 
Tip #29 Undershirt glowing arc reactor 2
My second attempt making it thinner (low profile), only 8mm
arc reactor simple 2.jpg

Since the lid is made of steel, a magnet will stick, however, I find it not strong enough.
So I superglue two magnets to the lid, and using another two for anchors.
 
Thanks Helagak.

I remembered seeing some black lines over the arc.
So I changed the face of the arc into this.
Also I darkened the middle.
arc reactor simple 3.jpg

It was supposed to have it printed on sandblast film.
However, I do it with regular paper printer, plastic cover sheet and all being superglued to the lid.
It turned out to be quite strong and the glue became transparent.
This is what it looked like under dark environment
arc reactor simple 3b.jpg
 
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