The Ultimate X-Wing Pilot Thread

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Star Wars Rebel X-Wing Pilots Flak Vest Tutorial.
By Eric Moody
aka Division 6, Rogue 9

First off this project is time consuming in both prep and execution.
Make sure to have as much picture reference as possible.
Read everything to get a sense of what is involved and what order the steps are in. ( a lot of reading )
After making a slightly simpler ( custom ) version I was able to figure out some of the bugs that should be fixed in this tutorial.

Research Discoveries:
From the pictures that I used from at least 4 MoM tours, one being worn at Celebration 1 in Denver, LFL images and pictures posted on the net and assorted books and magazines, I discovered that no two vests are the same and differ some what in each movie.

A number of images I used in getting measurements have lasers posted at intervals for measuring all the details at the MoM exhibit in San Diego Ca. ( Curtesy of Mat Clayson of Hi-Impact )

I also used known sizing of the straps and squares on the chest box for scaling images without lasers.

Note: ONLY Luke had the metal clips at the shoulders in Empire.

Since there are a number of differences in each vest, you can decide on which elements to use on yours.
Height of the front panel ranges from 8" to 8.75"
Bias ranges from .25" to .5" wide.
Some vests don't have bias on the edges but are instead just rolled and sewn.

Spacing between ribs varies somewhat as well as open areas at top and bottom and sides between bias and ribbed panel.
Some Empire versions appear to have a thinner nylon or vinyl backing. ( at least Zev's )

What I believe to be an original ANH vest has the shoulder straps starting at the bottom of the front and going all the way over to the bottom of the back.

The Empire and Jedi versions had the shoulder straps cut off and new, wider ones attached at the top edges, but you can still see the original straps in the vest. ( some have mistaken these for smaller wires )

The straps are in a "V" shape in most vests, but there appears to also be at least one or two that on the front or back they are attached straight vertically.

Materials needed: ( I tend to get twice what I need in case I mess up or need to make more than one )
Paper for making patterns
Ruler ( 18" or longer for best results )
Pencil
Blue water soluble fabric pen (optional )
Sewing machine ( unless you like doing it by hand )
Straight pins
Heavy white or off white nylon for exact reproduction, heavy cotton (denim) will work for a non screen accurate version. ( 2 - 3 yards )
1" webbing ( 1 yard )
Leather small piece ( 6" x 6" min ) prefeably in a off white finish.
Slider buckle ( x 1 ) for the back.
Luggage type clips ( x 2 ) for the sides.
Thread
Heavy gauge plastic coated wire, metal rods, metal, vinyl or plastic tubing ( for ribs ) ( amount varies depending on the widths of panels )
( I used stiff black water drip tubing from OSH, makes a nice hard shell )
Long dowel .25" dia. min. for turning shoulder straps inside out ( optional )

First of all you'll need to make the patterns.
Marking off an area of 8.5" x 14" for the front and 10" x 14" for the back. ( 1" wider all around if rolling edges )
Next divide the pieces in half with a center line or by folding.
At the top of both mark off 9.25" centered
From the bottom of the front pattern measure up 3", than another 2.5", than 2"
At the upper most line, centered mark off 10" horizontal.
Starting at the top make a line ( 9.25" ) down to the 10" mark than curve it out to the line 3" from the bottom. ( see picture )
Once you are satisfied with the curve ( checking reference pictures ) fold paper on center line and cut so edges match.
For the back place the front pattern over it, mark the top than move pattern to bottom edge, mark off edge up mid way than finish to the top.
Fold and cut.

The next part is tricky, I did it right on the fabric but you can make a pattern if you like.
On taller pieces of paper you will need to figure out all the extra material needed for making the rolls for the tubing.
.25" dia. tubing requires a minimum of 5/8" to fit in, providing your real good at sewing the spacing in a straight line ( I'm not )
Making it a full .75" will make putting the wire or tubing in much easier.

Starting at the 2" strip that is flat start marking off the spacing of the rolls and flat areas between., leaving an extra few inches at the top and bottom.
Next you'll have to figure out how the edge will curve using the first pattern as a gauge. (not an easy task )

For the back you'll do the same thing but starting with a flat area 1.5" from the bottom of the main panel with a 1.5" flat area above that. ( see picture )

Next is the shoulder straps.
Depending on which version you are making the length and width will differ.
The ANH full strap is 1.75" wide and approx 27" long, so the pattern will be 4" wide ( .5" for seam allowance ) and 17" long.
TESB & ROTJ Versions will require a 4"x 8.5" and a 4" x 10" as well as a 4.5" x 9".

For the sleeves on the back for the adjustment strap to run threw 4.5" x 2"
Leather pieces will be ( 2x ) 2.5"x 1.5" - ( 2x ) 1.75" x 1.5" - ( 2x ) 3" x .5" ( marked in gold on picture )

Cutting Fabric:
For the backing it can be done a couple ways, either as a single piece or with two pieces, hiding the stitching from the ribbing attachment.
Also if you are going to use bias tape on the sides than cut tha same as the pattern, but if you intend to just role the edge make sure to allow at least .5" or more to do so.

Once all the fabric is cut it will be a good idea to mark all your lines for placement and stitching.
This can be done with a pencil or fabric pen.
Start off with the strapping.
Wrong side out sew along open edge giving you the correct overall width depending on the version you are doing.
Next turn right side out ( a dowel or long thin ruler will help )
Once right side out you will be doing the cross stitching. depending on what version you are doing will dictate the pattern, ( see picture )
Only the 8.5 area that is seen needs to have the pattern, the unseen area can just go down the edges.
All spacing is .25"

At this point you need to decide if you and to attach the strapping to the facing or if doing the second layer attaching it to the backing.
If you are not using a backing than attach straps now.
If you are doing a rolled edge instead of bias tape sew edges now.
Next roll and sew sides of facing pieces ( tuck and roll pieces ) leaving top and bottom edges for later.
Working on front panel first, place cover piece with flat 2" area over back panel centered and sew, making *8* .25" wide lines.

( IMPORTANT ) keep an eye on edges to prevent drift to one side.

Starting on the top above flat area, begin doing the roll and flat areas, than at top of panel fold over on face or over backing than sew covering top edge.
If not going over top edge make sure that backing has been rolled and sewn before hand, for a clean edge, same with bottom.
Once the top portion is done work you way down to the bottom.

Once front is done, if adding a backing and you have not attached straps to front than attach to backing than attach backing to front and run bias down sides.
If not doing the backing just add bias, unless you have already rolled the edge.

Next the back, starting on the flat area near the bottom where the adjustment strap will go, work to edges like on the front.
Finish off same as front.

Take the 4.5" x 2" pieces for the strapping sleeves and role and stitch ends making piece 4" long, than pinning to open area of back on the outer edges sew along top and bottom edges making sure there is enough clearance for the strapping to go through.

If you are doing the Empire or Jedi version attach shoulder straps now, since the ANH version will have had them since the beginning or at least since attaching the backing if doing it with such.

For the side clips, taking the ( 2 ) 2.5" x 1.5" pieces, round one end than sew on a piece of 1" wide webbing centered that runs to the attachment edge.
Next attach clip.
Sew on to the back side of front vest .25" down from side corner ( see picture) leaving 2" sticking out.

Next sew the 3" x .5" piece on edge of lower front ( see picture )
You can use 1" webbing, but to be screen accurate take 2.5" wide strip of fabric and fold & sew to make a 1" wide strap for the back.
On ends of 1" strapping attach the 1.75" x 1.5" leather pieces than attach clip receiver piece.

Looking at back. attach clips to front of vest than figure out where the center will be when you are wearing it. ( best to try on vest backwards for placement )
Cut left strap and attach slider buckle than making sure you have plenty of extra cut and seal end of right side.
attach in center.

Measure out and cut wire, rod or tubing for each roll than slide into place.
This should be everything you need to make a authentic X-Wing Pilots Flak Vest.
I'm going to have to read that 4 more times and decipher all that. i knew it was complicated so i just need to figure out the steps and i can get it done.. i have the costumes book and a ton of other reference and a thousand photos.. also have the patterns drawn, fabric and webbing and buckles etc already acquired .. but not leather so that's good to know.. thanks for the huge write up! I'll rake it step by step and maybe post some photos as I go. much appreciated!
 
I wrote that up in 2004
It's also on the RL site.

The Rogue One vest looks like the ANH accept for the shoulder and side straps.
The R1 leg straps are some weird hard to find stretchy stuff and they wear a PLCE belt like the Commandos.

The real hard part is assembling it with the shoulder straps attached and also keeping everything straight.

I made this black and grey one for my CORSEC pilot in 2004 and just before the lock down made a R1 inspired version.
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The biggest problem I see when people make the flack vest is that they go out and buy commercial strapping off the roll. The single adjustable strap that runs from the center back, through the strap sleeve guides to the side clips is made from the same material of the vest. It’s a simple process to creat a strap/belt. You basically are going to start with a long wide piece of the fabric and fold and press it over and repeat a few times. Then top stitch.

There are tutorials online for this. Here is an example.
 
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In reference
The single adjustable strap that runs from the center back, through the strap sleeve guides to the side clips is made from the same material of the vest.
In all reference images of original vests I've seen that had been detailed enough to show the weave, all straps, (including the channel for the chest strap) have had a herringbone pattern whereas the main fabric has not.
But those might have been of repro vests made for Lucasfilm, not of an original high-altitude pressure vest.
 
In reference

In all reference images of original vests I've seen that had been detailed enough to show the weave, all straps, (including the channel for the chest strap) have had a herringbone pattern whereas the main fabric has not.
But those might have been of repro vests made for Lucasfilm, not of an original high-altitude pressure vest.

The material of the vest is very textured. It stands out more on on the strap because it flatter and the texture tends to stand out more. I also believe that the technique I mentioned above that to finish the strap, they added a top stick to the bottom and top edge and possibly a stitch line running down the center. I believe that the mix of texture and with the stitch line gives some people the idea that the strap is a different material than rest of the vest.
 
The only decent pic I have of the back.
Not sure what exhibit it was from.

Don't have any of the back of the actual Windak suit. :confused:

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so what material is suggested for the vest and strap? it looks like a nylon but it's hard to find nylon without the ripstop weave... is that the "official screen accurate" fabric for both?
 
Here is a Photo from The Prop Den on Facebook


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Is there anyone who produces an Accurate Rogue One Flak Vest? Imperial Boots has one that's close but its in the wrong colour and and the fabric around the ribbed section is too large.
 
so what material is suggested for the vest and strap? it looks like a nylon but it's hard to find nylon without the ripstop weave... is that the "official screen accurate" fabric for both?

The real vest could be a ripstop but I honestly don't know. It was invented in WW2 and utilized for parachutes but it's use expanded in the 60's. So it might be possible. However i think you can find a weave that is similar without ripstop. I believe my vest material looks very similar to the screen used one and I do not think it is ripstop. I had mine constructed about 20 years ago so I can't remember where, or how I selected my fabric. You will probably want to look for material that has more of an industrial application (furniture, kites, bags, etc..) rather than clothing. It will be thicker and look for a weave that has more of a texture.

As far as Rogue One vests. I never looked into them. Most of my X-Wing pilot costume research stopped around 20 years ago. One thing I do know is that costuming and props for the movie were done with the concept of how people (regular people, not us fanatics that stare a blurry frame clips over and over again for 40 years) who saw A New Hope in 1977 think they remember it. Thet's why you have better detailing in trooper armor and different material in the X-wing pilot suits. So if you are doing your research on a R1 vest or any other R1 components, do not assume the details such as material or construction are the same.
 
Looking at Screencaps of 'The Mandalorian' which reuses the 'Rogue One' Vests the ribbed section looks like a very similar fabric to it's OT counterpart but doesn't appear to reflect light as much and the fabric of the rim is familiar but I don't know the name.


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Here's another shot of an Original Trilogy Flak Vest from an Exhibition, this one has the edge material that the Rogue One Vest has, I don't know why the one in the earlier shot I put didn't have that.

From The Parts of Star Wars:
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Thank You for the shots of the Rogue One Vest, like I said the Imperial Boots vest is close but needs a few alterations to make it screen accurate.
 
I don’t think the material is the same between the OT and R1. The R1 material may be a nylon too but it looks like the weave has a built in pucker/crinkle.
 
great photos everyone! now off to find some thicker nylon type fabric.. i did some digging in my fabric bins the other day and found a lot of white, but not nylon.. some vinyl, some canvas, some ripstop )which i dont think is right), and some other stuff i have no idea what it is, and some very thin satin like stuff.. but i think its too thin. so i am looking elsewhere. Joanns was no help last night for leather or for fabric. so i may start to create a canvas version first, and then do a better, closer one when i get the canvas one figured out and locate the correct fabric maybe online..

incidentally, does anyone know the diameter of the food capsules for the belt? I am getting a lot of different answers elsewhere, and sometimes no answers. Also i am talking OT, or Rogue One type... not the new Poe stuff.

thanks again all.
 
The "flares"??? on the OT are just over the size of what ever web belt you use (see pic at top of page)
R1 look to be the same width of the PLCE belt (about 2 3/8")
 
The "flares"??? on the OT are just over the size of what ever web belt you use (see pic at top of page)
R1 look to be the same width of the PLCE belt (about 2 3/8")
I thought the boot ones were flares... but yeah those on the waist belt.. I have not been able to find the diameter of those pieces. everything from 1/4" to 5/16" to 1/2" which i think is too big. ill just guess.
 
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