The Ultimate X-Wing Pilot Thread

Trooper_trent

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
You want measurements for the pocket itself? or for the comm to 3D print?
I have a version on thingiverse you can print for free.
The pocket is roughly 5.5" square with a 2" square window centered inside it.
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Darth Lars

Master Member
I suggest that you would size the pocket from the dimension of the comm pad you get so that they match. The square window on the pocket is slightly larger than the raised square in the middle of the comm pad.
The pocket itself is not square: the top border is wider to prevent the pad from falling out through the opening.
 

piggylumps

New Member
Thank you chaps.

I have already printed the unit out, but couldn't find any decent pictures of the pocket, thank you Trooper_Trent for rectifying that one for me.

Does anyone fix these in place with Velcro or glue, or does everyone leave these loose in the pocket?

Thanks again
 

greg883

Active Member
Thank you chaps.

I have already printed the unit out, but couldn't find any decent pictures of the pocket, thank you Trooper_Trent for rectifying that one for me.

Does anyone fix these in place with Velcro or glue, or does everyone leave these loose in the pocket?

Thanks again

Try a strip of the "hook" side of "hook and loop" tape on the back of the commpad. Usually that has enough grab to keep it in place without having to sew the "loop" onto the sleeve.
 

Zeke1

New Member
Hi all, does anyone know where to find the patterns for the various pockets (ie: code cylinders, comm pad, etc) on the flightsuit? Every place I've found so far as led me back to the Rebel Legion website but all the pics and links appear to be defunct. :(

I don't know if he's a member here but a big shout out to Jerrick Sunrunner at the Rebel Legion for having backups of the patterns that I spent weeks looking for. Thanks man!

I'm posting them here for anyone else looking.

CC_Taschen_en.png Chect Pocket.jpg Left Arm Tool.jpg Leg Pockets.jpg Right Arm Pocket.jpg
 

Zeke1

New Member
So what's the agreed upon method to attach the "leg harness" to the rest of the suit?
It goes up under the flak vest and then what?
 

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Mara Jade's Father

Master Member
So what's the agreed upon method to attach the "leg harness" to the rest of the suit?
It goes up under the flak vest and then what?

In the movie it is simple pinned to the suit.

LukeStrap.jpg


I myself attach it with velcro inside of the front of the vest for easy attachment and removal.

However, if you are doing the The Empire Strikes Back version with the jacket, it goes under the jacket.
 

Zeke1

New Member
In the movie it is simple pinned to the suit.

View attachment 1506388

I myself attach it with velcro inside of the front of the vest for easy attachment and removal.

However, if you are doing the The Empire Strikes Back version with the jacket, it goes under the jacket.
I'm doing the jumpsuit version from A New Hope.

I like your velcro idea but where did you find a place to stitch the velcro to the vest while not stitching through the vest's "ribbing"?
 

Mara Jade's Father

Master Member
I'm doing the jumpsuit version from A New Hope.

I like your velcro idea but where did you find a place to stitch the velcro to the vest while not stitching through the vest's "ribbing"?

I just used a good brand of self sticking velcro. You can use fabric glue or even hold it on with a really good two sided tape like 3M or Gorilla.
 

Trooper_trent

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I made mine with a small 1/4" life jacket style clip/buckle to the underside of the vest for easy removal. It's sewn to the back and clips in the front.
 

Stitch

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm doing the jumpsuit version from A New Hope.

I like your velcro idea but where did you find a place to stitch the velcro to the vest while not stitching through the vest's "ribbing"?
Most of the GOOD vests are made with strip Veclro® down the front and back of the vest it put on BEFORE the ribbing is done to the front!

All my harnesses have Velcro® to attach to the vest plus make adjustment much easier, seen too many guys step on a leg stap getting up out of sitting position and rip hole in flightsuit with having it "safety" pinned if you step on it and trip you will want that BREAK AWAY for sure!
 

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Gil_JediXXL

New Member
Easy fix, on my vest I just sewed the Velcro horizontally along the rib lines and did not sew the vertical. As you can see it does not show at all.
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SnowyDay.jpg

Snowspeeder? No Problem! Small elastic boot gators crisscrossed around your neck under the jacket attached to the Velcro on the straps..
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Hoth Happy Hour.jpg
 
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Rawktrooper

New Member
now working on my first xwing pilot.. doing all the sewing myself with exception of the flightsuit. not sure which one i want to grab yet so working the other soft parts. is there any tutorial on how to sew the vest? what order its done and such.. thanks

also just finished my FAC xwing helmet paint.. its coming together!
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division 6

Master Member
flak vest1.2.jpg
Leg Strap Tutoral.jpg



Star Wars Rebel X-Wing Pilots Flak Vest Tutorial.
By Eric Moody
aka Division 6, Rogue 9

First off this project is time consuming in both prep and execution.
Make sure to have as much picture reference as possible.
Read everything to get a sense of what is involved and what order the steps are in. ( a lot of reading )
After making a slightly simpler ( custom ) version I was able to figure out some of the bugs that should be fixed in this tutorial.

Research Discoveries:
From the pictures that I used from at least 4 MoM tours, one being worn at Celebration 1 in Denver, LFL images and pictures posted on the net and assorted books and magazines, I discovered that no two vests are the same and differ some what in each movie.

A number of images I used in getting measurements have lasers posted at intervals for measuring all the details at the MoM exhibit in San Diego Ca. ( Curtesy of Mat Clayson of Hi-Impact )

I also used known sizing of the straps and squares on the chest box for scaling images without lasers.

Note: ONLY Luke had the metal clips at the shoulders in Empire.

Since there are a number of differences in each vest, you can decide on which elements to use on yours.
Height of the front panel ranges from 8" to 8.75"
Bias ranges from .25" to .5" wide.
Some vests don't have bias on the edges but are instead just rolled and sewn.

Spacing between ribs varies somewhat as well as open areas at top and bottom and sides between bias and ribbed panel.
Some Empire versions appear to have a thinner nylon or vinyl backing. ( at least Zev's )

What I believe to be an original ANH vest has the shoulder straps starting at the bottom of the front and going all the way over to the bottom of the back.

The Empire and Jedi versions had the shoulder straps cut off and new, wider ones attached at the top edges, but you can still see the original straps in the vest. ( some have mistaken these for smaller wires )

The straps are in a "V" shape in most vests, but there appears to also be at least one or two that on the front or back they are attached straight vertically.

Materials needed: ( I tend to get twice what I need in case I mess up or need to make more than one )
Paper for making patterns
Ruler ( 18" or longer for best results )
Pencil
Blue water soluble fabric pen (optional )
Sewing machine ( unless you like doing it by hand )
Straight pins
Heavy white or off white nylon for exact reproduction, heavy cotton (denim) will work for a non screen accurate version. ( 2 - 3 yards )
1" webbing ( 1 yard )
Leather small piece ( 6" x 6" min ) prefeably in a off white finish.
Slider buckle ( x 1 ) for the back.
Luggage type clips ( x 2 ) for the sides.
Thread
Heavy gauge plastic coated wire, metal rods, metal, vinyl or plastic tubing ( for ribs ) ( amount varies depending on the widths of panels )
( I used stiff black water drip tubing from OSH, makes a nice hard shell )
Long dowel .25" dia. min. for turning shoulder straps inside out ( optional )

First of all you'll need to make the patterns.
Marking off an area of 8.5" x 14" for the front and 10" x 14" for the back. ( 1" wider all around if rolling edges )
Next divide the pieces in half with a center line or by folding.
At the top of both mark off 9.25" centered
From the bottom of the front pattern measure up 3", than another 2.5", than 2"
At the upper most line, centered mark off 10" horizontal.
Starting at the top make a line ( 9.25" ) down to the 10" mark than curve it out to the line 3" from the bottom. ( see picture )
Once you are satisfied with the curve ( checking reference pictures ) fold paper on center line and cut so edges match.
For the back place the front pattern over it, mark the top than move pattern to bottom edge, mark off edge up mid way than finish to the top.
Fold and cut.

The next part is tricky, I did it right on the fabric but you can make a pattern if you like.
On taller pieces of paper you will need to figure out all the extra material needed for making the rolls for the tubing.
.25" dia. tubing requires a minimum of 5/8" to fit in, providing your real good at sewing the spacing in a straight line ( I'm not )
Making it a full .75" will make putting the wire or tubing in much easier.

Starting at the 2" strip that is flat start marking off the spacing of the rolls and flat areas between., leaving an extra few inches at the top and bottom.
Next you'll have to figure out how the edge will curve using the first pattern as a gauge. (not an easy task )

For the back you'll do the same thing but starting with a flat area 1.5" from the bottom of the main panel with a 1.5" flat area above that. ( see picture )

Next is the shoulder straps.
Depending on which version you are making the length and width will differ.
The ANH full strap is 1.75" wide and approx 27" long, so the pattern will be 4" wide ( .5" for seam allowance ) and 17" long.
TESB & ROTJ Versions will require a 4"x 8.5" and a 4" x 10" as well as a 4.5" x 9".

For the sleeves on the back for the adjustment strap to run threw 4.5" x 2"
Leather pieces will be ( 2x ) 2.5"x 1.5" - ( 2x ) 1.75" x 1.5" - ( 2x ) 3" x .5" ( marked in gold on picture )

Cutting Fabric:
For the backing it can be done a couple ways, either as a single piece or with two pieces, hiding the stitching from the ribbing attachment.
Also if you are going to use bias tape on the sides than cut tha same as the pattern, but if you intend to just role the edge make sure to allow at least .5" or more to do so.

Once all the fabric is cut it will be a good idea to mark all your lines for placement and stitching.
This can be done with a pencil or fabric pen.
Start off with the strapping.
Wrong side out sew along open edge giving you the correct overall width depending on the version you are doing.
Next turn right side out ( a dowel or long thin ruler will help )
Once right side out you will be doing the cross stitching. depending on what version you are doing will dictate the pattern, ( see picture )
Only the 8.5 area that is seen needs to have the pattern, the unseen area can just go down the edges.
All spacing is .25"

At this point you need to decide if you and to attach the strapping to the facing or if doing the second layer attaching it to the backing.
If you are not using a backing than attach straps now.
If you are doing a rolled edge instead of bias tape sew edges now.
Next roll and sew sides of facing pieces ( tuck and roll pieces ) leaving top and bottom edges for later.
Working on front panel first, place cover piece with flat 2" area over back panel centered and sew, making *8* .25" wide lines.

( IMPORTANT ) keep an eye on edges to prevent drift to one side.

Starting on the top above flat area, begin doing the roll and flat areas, than at top of panel fold over on face or over backing than sew covering top edge.
If not going over top edge make sure that backing has been rolled and sewn before hand, for a clean edge, same with bottom.
Once the top portion is done work you way down to the bottom.

Once front is done, if adding a backing and you have not attached straps to front than attach to backing than attach backing to front and run bias down sides.
If not doing the backing just add bias, unless you have already rolled the edge.

Next the back, starting on the flat area near the bottom where the adjustment strap will go, work to edges like on the front.
Finish off same as front.

Take the 4.5" x 2" pieces for the strapping sleeves and role and stitch ends making piece 4" long, than pinning to open area of back on the outer edges sew along top and bottom edges making sure there is enough clearance for the strapping to go through.

If you are doing the Empire or Jedi version attach shoulder straps now, since the ANH version will have had them since the beginning or at least since attaching the backing if doing it with such.

For the side clips, taking the ( 2 ) 2.5" x 1.5" pieces, round one end than sew on a piece of 1" wide webbing centered that runs to the attachment edge.
Next attach clip.
Sew on to the back side of front vest .25" down from side corner ( see picture) leaving 2" sticking out.

Next sew the 3" x .5" piece on edge of lower front ( see picture )
You can use 1" webbing, but to be screen accurate take 2.5" wide strip of fabric and fold & sew to make a 1" wide strap for the back.
On ends of 1" strapping attach the 1.75" x 1.5" leather pieces than attach clip receiver piece.

Looking at back. attach clips to front of vest than figure out where the center will be when you are wearing it. ( best to try on vest backwards for placement )
Cut left strap and attach slider buckle than making sure you have plenty of extra cut and seal end of right side.
attach in center.

Measure out and cut wire, rod or tubing for each roll than slide into place.
This should be everything you need to make a authentic X-Wing Pilots Flak Vest.
 

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