The Ultimate Ben Obi-Wan Kenobi Real Vintage Parts Lightsaber Group

onderon

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Should I clean it? I should just gently try to remove the rust right? Do you guys have any tips how should I do that? I don't want to mess it up.

IMG_3111.jpeg IMG_3112.jpeg IMG_3113.jpeg IMG_3114.jpeg IMG_3116.jpeg
 

teecrooz

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I’d do an initial pass with dish soap and a toothbrush and dry it really well afterward.

You can always choose to go more aggressive later.

You’ll see some wonderful pitting under that rust, just like the movie one.

Mine after a slow gentle cleaning:
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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
*swoon*

Remember, with metal things like steel, when you think they're dry there is still probably moisture in its pores and crevices. I put mine over the stove on a low flame to evaporate water from the whole unit. Done this on all my grenades, russrep BP, booster and flash hiders. Don't forget a little oil afterwards, paste wax or an enamel clear coat
 

schrodinger555

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So inconel is a nickel chromium alloy with a very small amount of iron in it. The basic alloying is 50%-70% nickel, 15%-25% chromium, and the rest is iron and a few trace elements. Lets just assume we have 70% nickel, 25% chromium, and 5% iron. A BP weighs about 93 grams if I remember right, so the BP has less than 5 grams of iron, and because of the fact that chromium and nickel will stabilize austenitic structures, this material is like a stainless steel, but with a fraction of the actual iron content. That means theoretically they can't really rust, and they aren't magnetic despite having iron in them. The alloy is very tough and should have a thick protective oxide coat from use in an engine.

So for a NOS BP, your best bet is to clean it without abrasive tools, and instead use acetone and a rag to remove the wax/oils in order to clean it. Abrasives should be able to scratch easily because of the lack of an oxide layer.

For a used male or female BP you should use a toothbrush with soft bristles and warm soapy water to remove the caked up gunk on the outside, and failing that use a brass brush by hand to remove the build up that isn't desired. Brass is fairly soft and can remove oxide without scratching the surface underneath, but you should still be careful and not use too much force.

It's a super weird alloy, I've had some friends use it for linings in forges as it holds up to high heat so well without becoming softer or brittle, but its damn expensive too
 

schrodinger555

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi all! Decided to drop in here and share my progress as I go down the path of a real parts build. I’ve been able to source everything except the BP and here are the parts that have arrived so far :)

View attachment 1534949
Wonderful stuff! Where did the washers come from? They look quite good! Also is your exactra the fully round bubble variant? It looks so from here!
 

Obi1Kenobi

Member
Don’t take this the wrong way please, but despite all of the more rare and expensive parts, my favorite area is the relatively common and relatively inexpensive clamp. What you and Juan have done with the details there like the brass screws, the wires/pins, the worn-off tape, and the weathering for those items looks perfect to me. It is almost as if you found the actual Chronicles saber and took fresh pictures. This is gorgeous!

Edit: I just noticed that the square washer under the clamp lever should be removed. That’s a relatively easy fix.
 
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Scruffylooking

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Don’t take this the wrong way please, but despite all of the more rare and expensive parts, my favorite area is the relatively common and relatively inexpensive clamp. What you and Juan have done with the details there like the brass screws, the wires/pins, the worn-off tape, and the weathering for those items looks perfect to me. It is almost as if you found the actual Chronicles saber and took fresh pictures. This is gorgeous!

Edit: I just noticed that the square washer under the clamp lever should be removed. That’s a relatively easy fix.
All credit goes to Juan, he has painstakingly replicated the saber down to the transistors alignment to the actual prop.
 

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