The suitcase from Fantastic Beasts and how to recognize it

[ATL Kenobi]

I believe the most iconic prop for the upcoming “Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them” will be the suitcase that Newt has in the trailers that are now out. I originally thought that the suitcase would be a “found item”, but after searching eBay, eBayUK, Etsy, EtsyUK, and Google Images for things like “Vintage Leather Suitcase”, “antique…”, “attaché…”, “briefcase...”, and all manner of combinations of these and others I had no luck finding the exact suitcase. There were a couple that were somewhat close, but none were dead on. Here’s what I looked for based purely on what I observed from pictures:

Full view:

Most pictures show the case as being a medium brown, but a couple seem to have hints of tan. My best estimates of size are 20” (50cm) wide by 6” (15cm) tall by 12” (30 cm) deep. Most of the hardware is antiqued brass, but there are some antiqued copper rivets. There’s a leather reinforcement corners on each of the 8 suitcase corners.

Front

The key latches and hasps are antique brass. The top of the hasp is half round, and the round part of the keyhole is not concentric with the round lock slide. The lid corners are held on with 1 rivet while the corners on the case are held on with 2. The handle is leather and is approximately 1” (25mm) wide by 6” (15cm) long, with a square brass ring on each end held to the case with a riveted small stitched leather strap. There are 5 domed copper rivets across the lid which holds an inner frame.

Sides

The case sides are made up of separate pieces of leather that are attached using #12 copper rivets and burrs (9 across the bottom and 4 on each end). There are 3 domed copper rivets across the lid. There’s a stitched leather edging around both the lid and the case itself. I didn’t do well in magical creatures, but I understand the claw might belong to a niffler.

Back

The 1-1/2” (4cm) hinges are antique brass, and the bottom edge is rounded. Once again, the lid corners are held on with 1 rivet while the corners on the case are held on with 2. There are 5 domed copper rivets across the lid, and there are four ½” (12mm) antique brass domed feet.

Top

The lid top is plain and again, the lid corners are held on with 1 rivet.

Bottom

On the case bottom, there are four ½” (12mm) antique brass domed feet, and the corners on the case are attached with 2 rivets each.

Muggle worthy

And then there’s this thing . I suspect (and hope) someone like Noble will be replicating them soon.

Since I couldn't find a suitcase close enough, I'm currently working on making one.

ATL

 

[PotionMistress]

I've been thinking about making one myself, but I've had to put it off due to working on other projects. I have a much larger vintage old case that has some similarities to Newt's, but it's really too big by itself but which I may be able to use as a kind of guide.

What substraight are you planning on using for your case (under the leather)? Wood would be too stiff, I think. Perhaps a plastic or a thick cardboard or Davey board (like they use in bookbinding) might do the trick.

 

[ATL Kenobi]

The lid appears to have a frame around the inside of it. After scaling and drawing the suitcase in AutoCad, I figured it's about a 1/4" (6mm) thick.

I made a frame from some oak stock from The Home Depot.

As for the substrate for the case, I found that Tandy sells what they refer to as a bag stiffener (Item #9072-00). It's shown in this picture under the copper rivets on the sides. Eventually it will be on the inside of the front and back as well.

I also applied applied spirit-based dye to the inside of the case which stiffens the leather considerably. I used oil stain for the outsides of the case.

 

[RobertMuldoon]

There are places like https://www.scaramangashop.co.uk/browse/c-Vintage-Suitcases-111/?page=1 who sell old leather suitcases.

 

[Magic]

Hello ^^ ATL Kenobi
I can't wait see your suitcases!!

 

[Jintosh]

...



Found this one on eBay....totally wrong color, but has some similarities.

 

[ATL Kenobi]

I agree there are many very similar or "close" vintage leather cases out there for sale. I found at least 24, but for me, if I'm going to spend the money, a replica prop should be as exact as possible. That said, mine will not be 100% accurate. The only brass lock/latch/hatch I could find is about 10% smaller than it should be. BTW - If anyone else wants to make a suitcase, probably should spend some time looking at the Ohio Travel Bag website.

Speaking of eBay - Notice the alarm clock which is presented to the customs inspector:

I did find this which I believe is the correct one:

It doesn't actually work, but I didn't care - and it was whole lot cheaper.

As for my project, I glued on the edging for the lid:

Punched about 300 holes - 3 at a time:

And started stitching:

ATL

 

[RobertMuldoon]

I'm really enjoying watching this build! It does make me wonder if I should add this to my (infinitely growing) list of things to make...

 

[ATL Kenobi]

I'm really enjoying watching this build! It does make me wonder if I should add this to my (infinitely growing) list of things to make...

Glad to hear it RM. If it does turn out well, I'll post some drawings. Perhaps that'll help you if you get a chance to make your own!

I finished the stitching on the lid:

And then added the hardware:

The corner guards are made from leather circles. A guard as shown will eventually be glued and riveted on to each corner.

The waxed stitching cord, I think, is a little too bright. It'll need to be "aged" a bit.

ATL

 

[Pascal Kurosawa]

a great project- keep going

 

[ATL Kenobi]

a great project- keep going

Thanks PK!

I glued on the edging for the case:

To attach the case edging, I used painters tape for alignment and to mask where I applied glue. (Keep in mind that when the tape is removed it may pull off some of the stain). I needed the edging in place to help locate the lid hinges and locks, but since the lining on the inside of the case goes underneath this edging, I'll have to do the stitching later.

I was then able to set the lid down on the case to locate where the holes should be for the hinges and the locks:

The hinges and locks were then temporarily installed using machine screws. Notice the top of the left hasp is at an angle.

This was caused by the rather stiff spring that's supplied with the hasp:

To alleviate the tension, I removed the pin and replace the spring with a smaller one. This would've been a whole lot easier to do if the hasps weren't already riveted on :unsure.

ATL

 

[ecl]

LOVE THIS

 

[ATL Kenobi]

LOVE THIS

Thanks ECL!

Added feet to the back and bottom of the case.

The locks on the latch plates I found are obviously not quite like the ones on the prop; the lock slide is taller on the prop to accommodate the "Muggle Worthy" flag, and the false keyhole is considerably larger. So they need to be modified slightly:

The red arrows point to 2 bent-over metal tabs. If these are bent up and straightened out, the lock comes right off.

It looks like this:

The lock consists of 3 pieces. The bit on the left is the keyhole which will be discarded. The "legs" on the piece in the middle will be too short, so it'll be replaced. The beveled piece will be re-used.

Using my Dewalt miter saw, I cut two 1/4" (6mm) pieces of 7/8" (22mm) diameter brass tube. After some filing and sanding, these pieces were epoxied to the bevels.

I bought some 15mm brass discs to use for the keyholes, but once they were in hand, I couldn't devise a way to hold them so that the hole could be drilled, and then some way to accurately add the slot.

So I'm going to try my hand at etching. RPF member -@TheDarkPope - presented a detailed post on how this is done. Here's the artwork:

Hopefully, I can do this .


This version of the latches obviously won't have the "Muggle Worthy" flag, although I believe I've worked out how I can make one. Since "it's complicated", and I want to have a finished case soon, the working mechanism will come later.

ATL

 

[ATL Kenobi]

ECL
If you or any of the other paper prop/graphics experts would like to take a shot at improving this map "cover", please feel free to do so:

I did the best I could with PC Paint, but the lettering isn't quite right and the base of the statue needs to be added. However, I don't think the full base of the statue can be illustrated - I don't believe it'll fit. As shown in a previous post, the map prop is slightly obscured and a magnifying glass enlarges the lettering. I believe the finished dimensions should be close to 4 x 9 inches.

ATL

 

[LorduDesign]

Great project so far! Will be doing one myself later this year!

As for map cover MinaLima (graphics studio) used that clip art - http://www.clipart.com/en/close-up?o=489347
As I remember someone on graphics sub-forum (in Fantastic Beasts thread) did that map cover (probably shmartybird).

Shmartybird found exact map item which is just above the alarm clock:
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=259363&page=3&p=4049885&viewfull=1#post4049885

 

[shmartybird]

ECL
If you or any of the other paper prop/graphics experts would like to take a shot at improving this map "cover", please feel free to do so:
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=656194&d=1471628565

I did the best I could with PC Paint, but the lettering isn't quite right and the base of the statue needs to be added. However, I don't think the full base of the statue can be illustrated - I don't believe it'll fit. As shown in a previous post, the map prop is slightly obscured and a magnifying glass enlarges the lettering. I believe the finished dimensions should be close to 4 x 9 inches.

ATL

Yeh, here's the version I made:



Also, I bought an original UK map and made digital scans- currently waiting on a reproduction from the printers .

Loving the project so far, and super excited to see how the etching comes out!

 

[ATL Kenobi]

Great project so far! Will be doing one myself later this year!

As for map cover MinaLima (graphics studio) used that clip art - http://www.clipart.com/en/close-up?o=489347
As I remember someone on graphics sub-forum (in Fantastic Beasts thread) did that map cover (probably @shmartybird).

Shmartybird found exact map item which is just above the alarm clock:
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=259363&page=3&p=4049885&viewfull=1#post4049885

Yeh, here's the version I made:

View attachment 656560

Also, I bought an original UK map and made digital scans- currently waiting on a reproduction from the printers .

Loving the project so far, and super excited to see how the etching comes out!

LorduDesign and Shmartybird,

:$ My apologies for not taking the time to peruse other threads and posts to see what other members are working on. Shmartybird - if you make the UK map available, I'll be first in line , and LorduDesign - thanks for the heads-up regarding the statue graphic!

The etching turn out a WHOLE lot better than I though it would:

On my first attempt, I applied the resist, heated it with a hair drier, sort of rolled it out with a wall paper roller, but the develop process was taking so long I added a bit more washing soda which promptly removed all of the resist. Don't do that.
My second attempt was more successful and into the peroxide/acid it went:

I removed the resist, scrubbed the keyholes with very fine steel wool, and put them in antiquing solution for a few minutes. (BTW - Do NOT use antiquing solution on brass plated items. It very efficiently removes the plating).

Then I simply glued them on to the lock mechanisms.

Now it's time to get a handle on this project.

ATL

 

[ATL Kenobi]

Here's a close up of the handle:

It's the same color as the case, 6" (15cm) long, 1" (25mm) wide with an integral square brass ring on each end. It's roughly oval in cross-section and it's stitched across the top with a pitch slightly finer than that of the edging on the case.

Before starting the project, I looked high and low for a pre-made handle and was unsuccessful. Fortunately, as I was looking for a vintage case, I came across this image which gave me a clue as to how handles are made:

I started by making a wood form, radiused as the handle, with simple clamps to hold the rings on either end.

I'm using 7 ounce leather for the handle (the case, lid and corner guards are 5 ounce, and the edging is 2 ounce).

I skived the edge of the leather that folds back over the rings so as to make the handle rounded at the bottom. I then placed the leather in the form and clamped down the rings. The folded-back leather was then glued and clamped. When this dried, I added some rivets just for good measure.

I then used scrap pieces of leather to build up the "interior" of the handle, skiving and shaping the leather as the layers were added:

Here's what it looks like from the side:

Applied the stain:

Should be ready to wet-form the "outer" leather soon.

ATL

 

[Jintosh]

Nice find on the handle picture.

 

[ATL Kenobi]

For the wet forming, I thoroughly wetted the outside leather with warm water and then bent it up, over and around the innards. It sort of molded it itself and was whole lot less effort than when I made the nose for the boots which took a good hour of tugging and pulling and kneading and nailing.

I then pushed the leather into a second wood form with slots, and clamped it:

Looking at the end:

The leather has to thoroughly dry, then it can be glued, trimmed, punched, and stitched.

ATL