The rust, stops HERE....

[ssdesigner]

Ok prop fans, my question is pretty straightforward. How do you "stop" the aging or weathering process on your props?

Specifically, the ANH Obi saber. Most of the parts are steel, and while a little rust is needed, how do you say this is enough? Clear coat of some sort? If this, how does it change the overall look, and is it worth losing a bit of that natural feel?

Thoughts?

-Ss

 

[rundown]

Well I work in a metal design atelier. We use some kind of unnoticable laquor to cover rusted pieces. I can ask how its called next tuesday!

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

I use a matte clear coat lightly sprayed over real rust on steel parts. Works like a champ.

 

[Darth Lars]

A product line of liquids for rusting and patination at home would typically also come with products for neutralizing the liquids and sealing/lacquering the surface in matte, gloss or satin.

Steel parts that I have rust-blued black at home, I have then dipped in a solution of baking soda to neutralize any residue of acids, then rinsed, dried and oiled with gun oil. But I don't know if that simple method would be suitable for red-brown rust.

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

Renaissance Wax

 

[ssdesigner]

Renaissance Wax

How does this stuff hold up to handling?

By that I mean sweaty nerds grabbing and swooshing a saber hilt

-Ss

 

[OdiWan72]

Matte clear coat or ZAPON laquer (specifially for protecting metals)

 

[6644Invader]

Ok prop fans, my question is pretty straightforward. How do you "stop" the aging or weathering process on your props?

Specifically, the ANH Obi saber. Most of the parts are steel, and while a little rust is needed, how do you say this is enough? Clear coat of some sort? If this, how does it change the overall look, and is it worth losing a bit of that natural feel?

Thoughts?

-Ss

A product line of liquids for rusting and patination at home would typically also come with products for neutralizing the liquids and sealing/lacquering the surface in matte, gloss or satin.

Steel parts that I have rust-blued black at home, I have then dipped in a solution of baking soda to neutralize any residue of acids, then rinsed, dried and oiled with gun oil. But I don't know if that simple method would be suitable for red-brown rust.

Darth Lars is exactly correct. You need to neutralize the rust first no matter whether it's Fe[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]3[/SUB] or Fe[SUB]3[/SUB]O[SUB]4[/SUB]. Once the rusting process is completely stopped, use a gun oil, or any good oil for that matter, and you'll be good to go. While you can certainly use a lacquer coating, I find this to be easier and it works well too.