The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread
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The leather was all cut, stitched, and dyed by myself. The hardware came with my blank
Chris Fields
Well-Known Member
Hey, looking great! ... question though, where have you seen the double stitching on the base straps? I've always seem them as a single stitch on the shields i've researched and held. Thanks!
Mtrixman! that looks phenomenal! can you give me the dimensions for the rings on the back? Or are they just the same as the front? I'm getting mine custom made and want the same back as yours.
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I don't know if anyone has tried this, but I like the testors red and the metalcast blue. Could I do that or would there be some problem. I don't think it will mess anything but this is such a high precision job that I want to make sure I don't make any stupid mistakes and have to redo it more times than needed. Thoughts?
drakeprimeone
Well-Known Member
The testors red has one big advantage. Mtrix pointed out to me that it matches a red Sharpe perfectly. It's great for cleaning up the rings.
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I completely forgot to include my ref pics! The base straps on this shield have the double layer/double stitch, and the hand straps only have the single stitch
Chris Fields
Well-Known Member
Thanks! I remember those now.... yeah, they only had single stitch on the all the shields i've held. And it looks like the 4 corner straps are single stitched?
IamJAd
Member
Thanks for all the pictures lately, especially the actual paints people are using.
Is there a post that shows the recommended paint procedure? I disregard that painting vertically is the way to go. What about any pre-paint prep like acetone? Are people painting the edge of the shield? If so, what's the best way?
I read that wet sanding isn't necessary.
Finally, any tips on how to clear coat best?
Thanks!
Is there a post that shows the recommended paint procedure? I disregard that painting vertically is the way to go. What about any pre-paint prep like acetone? Are people painting the edge of the shield? If so, what's the best way?
I read that wet sanding isn't necessary.
Finally, any tips on how to clear coat best?
Thanks!
It kind of looks that way, but I don't have a clear shot
Hey guys, would someone help me find the right paint color to turn my sled into a SHIELD stealth version? I'm set on getting an official eFx shield, so I want to turn my traditional shield into a stealth one.
This beauty here by Cousindave is the only one stealth one I've seen around here (is the stealth color scheme not popular on the RPF?).
I don't need the exact paint that's on this one (although it would be awesome if someone knew). Any spray paint with the right color would be fine, as it is a budget sled shield and I'm not picky. Thanks in advance!!
This beauty here by Cousindave is the only one stealth one I've seen around here (is the stealth color scheme not popular on the RPF?).
I don't need the exact paint that's on this one (although it would be awesome if someone knew). Any spray paint with the right color would be fine, as it is a budget sled shield and I'm not picky. Thanks in advance!!
gymbeau2000
Member
I got a couple of clear days. I found the Duplicolor so chose not to risk the Krylon anodized paint, but I'm sure I would have got similar results. I wasn't prepared for the Duplicolor to dry so fast, which is a good thing. I left the shield to bake in the sun and in 10 minutes it was ready to go. Blue done first and let it cure overnight. A day later, masked it off and trimmed away the parts for red painting. All I did was a good solid coat and 10 minutes later a fast lighter one. I can see how some people are going heavy and making it look really solid, but I don't want to run the risk of paint runs and overflow. Plus with weathering the tones will be all different.
Here's the pics:
Blue was still curing in these pics.
Cured:
You can see how it looks different with a thick coat vs. a lighter one.
All paint cured:
I bought a 4 min. epoxy from Fred Meyers called Permetex Multi-Metal epoxy. It's like the Dev-Con stuff where the tube is two chambers and mixes when you squirt it out. It grey's up like JB Weld and sets fast. I have never used it before but it has a higher strength than JB at 4000lbs., so why not. I only used a little bit and put and thin film on the back of the star. I used my 3/4" super neodymium magnets to pin down the tips of the star (but first I cut the tips off rubber gloves and put the magnet touching the star inside of them so as to not mar up the star). I ended up using two magnets on each tip and two on the underside of the shield to hold them in place. Then I placed a 40lb. bag of split peas from my doomsday stash on top to weigh down the middle. 4 hours later it was sold with only the smallest bit of epoxy coming out. I was able to easily chip that away with my fingertip.
Here is flash off and flash on pics:
I made a ghetto rig for the back handles until I can get on Valor's next run, plus I have the brass plate for the back too....but not worth seeing. When I get home, it get's a satin coat or two and I am calling it done until I get those brackets.
Here's the pics:
Blue was still curing in these pics.
Cured:
You can see how it looks different with a thick coat vs. a lighter one.
All paint cured:
I bought a 4 min. epoxy from Fred Meyers called Permetex Multi-Metal epoxy. It's like the Dev-Con stuff where the tube is two chambers and mixes when you squirt it out. It grey's up like JB Weld and sets fast. I have never used it before but it has a higher strength than JB at 4000lbs., so why not. I only used a little bit and put and thin film on the back of the star. I used my 3/4" super neodymium magnets to pin down the tips of the star (but first I cut the tips off rubber gloves and put the magnet touching the star inside of them so as to not mar up the star). I ended up using two magnets on each tip and two on the underside of the shield to hold them in place. Then I placed a 40lb. bag of split peas from my doomsday stash on top to weigh down the middle. 4 hours later it was sold with only the smallest bit of epoxy coming out. I was able to easily chip that away with my fingertip.
Here is flash off and flash on pics:
I made a ghetto rig for the back handles until I can get on Valor's next run, plus I have the brass plate for the back too....but not worth seeing. When I get home, it get's a satin coat or two and I am calling it done until I get those brackets.
Hi everybody some great paint work in this thread but this post is aimed at mainly those of us in the UK who have trouble finding Duplicolor or some where prepared to ship to the UK , well earlier today I called Caswelleurope.co.uk and spoke to a really helpful guy called clive who after I explained exactly why we needed a particular color ( screen accurate ) told me that he is prepared to place an order to ship in from the US as part of a larger order he will be placing tomorrow he confirmed our convo by email and said he will call as soon as poss to confirm my order , 3 cans at £11 60 each and then £12 postage as they are delivered by courier .So on to the photos, apologies for the layout and size its my first go at posting , earlier this week , getting frustrated with the lack of success finding duplicolor I took a chance and bought the cans you see , VHT , ive not come across them in the threads ive read through so far , If im honest the red looks a little dark would you say? but the blue looks really close , the shield photo is one of roloando's which he sent me when I ordered my blank last weekend for comparison.
Hope this post is helpful to someone.
Chris Fields
Well-Known Member
I tried the VHT paints several years ago when I first started making these types of shields. Yeah, the red is too dark and the blue is too light... imho. Also had a tough time getting them smooth. Looks like you got them a lot smoother than i did though.
Chris Fields
Well-Known Member
just thought I'd throw this up there. recent battle damage paint job i did for myself....
with flash, though the blue looks orange peely for some reason, it's not in person...
with flash, though the blue looks orange peely for some reason, it's not in person...
uncanny
New Member
Has anyone ever used naval jelly to remove rust?
I'm pretty pissed right now…I'm using the steel saucer sled & I think I got a bad batch….
With the first two I made a year ago, I ordered from Amazon and they came in their original packaging. I recently picked up four from The Tool Warehouse in NJ, where they had as many as 400 sleds in their warehouse in February. These were handed to me out of the box. No visible damage, but something must have been up with them because all four have been bad news since I started stripping them.
With my first shields, I used Kleen-Strip Aircraft Paint Remover and the paint practically slid right off the sleds. With these four, I couldn't get all of the paint to bubble up, and as a result quite a bit was left on. I was out of the Aircraft, so I then used some of the Citrus Stripper they have at Home Depot. Even that required quite a bit of scrubbing--hours of it, in total, for four sleds. There was black rust underneath the paint on three of the four sleds! ?!?!? Not only that, but within an hour, all four sleds flash-rusted with giant dark spots, and two of them rusted in the back with hundreds of tiny brown-grey specks.
Conditions were fine---not too humid, in fact it was pretty much the same exact weather as when I stripped my first sleds last spring.
I've tried to sand some of the rust out using the technique I would use anyway to give the spun metal look, and no dice. The only thing I can think of using to salvage these is naval jelly, but I've never used it before. Is there any hope that it can actually get out these black spots & the large flash rust stains?
Some pics (upside down for some reason):
Large flash-rust stains:
Black rust that was already present underneath the paint as soon as the paint came off:
Tiny flash rust speckles amongst the larger stains:
I am SO peeved right now, especially because one of these was going to be for a friend.
I'm pretty pissed right now…I'm using the steel saucer sled & I think I got a bad batch….
With the first two I made a year ago, I ordered from Amazon and they came in their original packaging. I recently picked up four from The Tool Warehouse in NJ, where they had as many as 400 sleds in their warehouse in February. These were handed to me out of the box. No visible damage, but something must have been up with them because all four have been bad news since I started stripping them.
With my first shields, I used Kleen-Strip Aircraft Paint Remover and the paint practically slid right off the sleds. With these four, I couldn't get all of the paint to bubble up, and as a result quite a bit was left on. I was out of the Aircraft, so I then used some of the Citrus Stripper they have at Home Depot. Even that required quite a bit of scrubbing--hours of it, in total, for four sleds. There was black rust underneath the paint on three of the four sleds! ?!?!? Not only that, but within an hour, all four sleds flash-rusted with giant dark spots, and two of them rusted in the back with hundreds of tiny brown-grey specks.
Conditions were fine---not too humid, in fact it was pretty much the same exact weather as when I stripped my first sleds last spring.
I've tried to sand some of the rust out using the technique I would use anyway to give the spun metal look, and no dice. The only thing I can think of using to salvage these is naval jelly, but I've never used it before. Is there any hope that it can actually get out these black spots & the large flash rust stains?
Some pics (upside down for some reason):
Large flash-rust stains:
Black rust that was already present underneath the paint as soon as the paint came off:
Tiny flash rust speckles amongst the larger stains:
I am SO peeved right now, especially because one of these was going to be for a friend.
drakeprimeone
Well-Known Member
Uncanny, I've had sleds like that before. The stains aren't so bad, because the sand paper and stripping pads will make those disappear. You will just have to work it extra hard. I believe even the black rust spots will be able to work itself out.
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uncanny
New Member
I imagine that if I sand deep enough, it should all come out, but I don't know how I would be able to sand that deep and still do it in a circular pattern. Since I'm. It cutting a hike on the center, I've been doing it by applying a tape pad to the center, putting a nail through a sandpaper-covered paint stirring stick into the tape pad, and pressing down as I rotate the stock around the shield. It's pretty tough to get a deep sand that's also even. I may have to find something other than a paint stirring stick to apply the sandpaper to...it doesn't seem quite flexible enough to get an even, deep sand.
Edit: Drake, just saw your post. Thanks for the encouragement!
I'll have to use some brain power and extra elbow grease...
How do you use a stripping pad instead of paper? Attach it to a paint stick or something similar?
Edit: Drake, just saw your post. Thanks for the encouragement!
I'll have to use some brain power and extra elbow grease... How do you use a stripping pad instead of paper? Attach it to a paint stick or something similar?
