The Book of Eli machete pattern - FREE

I'd kind of be interested in a blade that is functional too, that can be used to whack at some overgrowth and cut it back.

That would be tough. I did a couple from 3/16 mild steel and they are pretty strong just because they are so thick. But to make a working piece you need high carbon steel and it needs to be tempered. It comes in at about three pounds so using it much would be pretty tiring.

You could do a "close enough" working blade if you could find a wide blade machete and then carefully grind it to shape without overheating to much then file it back to a cutting edge. Paint the lightening holes. It would look the same while you were swinging.
 
That would be tough. I did a couple from 3/16 mild steel and they are pretty strong just because they are so thick. But to make a working piece you need high carbon steel and it needs to be tempered. It comes in at about three pounds so using it much would be pretty tiring.

You could do a "close enough" working blade if you could find a wide blade machete and then carefully grind it to shape without overheating to much then file it back to a cutting edge. Paint the lightening holes. It would look the same while you were swinging.

I have been thinking and making room in my sched. to do one or some of these. it would be cut out of 1075 or 1095 steel then hand ground and heat treated by me.

Or I could have just bare blanks cut out "unground and not heattreated" if anyone wants those.
 
I have been thinking and making room in my sched. to do one or some of these. it would be cut out of 1075 or 1095 steel then hand ground and heat treated by me.

Or I could have just bare blanks cut out "unground and not heattreated" if anyone wants those.

I would be in for one of those. Not sure which one, so if you could post pics when they are ready, that would be great!
 
well the prices i was looking at was about 65 usd for the blade blanks (no grinding or heat treat) out of 1075
(this price is based on a minimum of 6 blades.)

and if someone people wanted them gound to an edge and heat treated it would be an additional 75 usd for a total of 140 usd

i havent checked into scales or wrap, but i could do some simple wood scales pinned on and just leave the aging and wrapping to you guys.
 
Mike, I am still interested, but I guess if there aren't enough people to make it worth while, that is too bad. :(
 
Well cool. Well that would make 3 of us. Ill go later tonight after the fireworks and start an interest thread. Just so everyone knows I am an amature bladesmith, and I have the equipment to do these. No angle grinder work, these will be ground (for those that want it) by hand on my flat platen and the edge will de finished "moran edge" style its a very durable edge shape, so you guys can go out and chop brush or wood. My plan is a through hardened blade, but I can do a differential heat treat for anyone that wants one its alittle bit more money do to time and extra materials. Anyhow ill post more in a bit.
 
here is one of the blanks i cut , ground and heatreated....

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i just used paracord cause its all i had at the time. this thing is a beast. we were splitting 2x4's and "trimming the hedges" with it. (again with the neighbor, 2nd round of abuse testing) came in sat it on my lap and it cut through my jeans when i went to move it... i am happy!
 
I got my machete in from Mike and here is my first attempt at a handle wrap. I am not happy with it at all, but at least it is a start. I used 4 72" long boot laces that I dyed and overlaid the end with waxed linen cord. I comparing mine to an original, there is no raw leather showing on the original... and I am just totally confused on exactly what the leather wrap is. Also, in looking at the black cord I used on the ends, I think the original utilizes sinew instead. Overall, I like the way mine looks, but I am sure all of it is coming back off. BTW, I strongly recommend you paint the handle a dark brown and not leave it raw as the originals appear to be painted

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This stunt sword handle seems to have more of the black cord look, but I still prefer the one posted above. Still scratching my head on the leather though. Thinking the leather cord is between 3 and 4mm.

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To me from the pic you posted Art, it looks like they they may have taken some really light garment leather (like a 1.5 to 2 oz), cut it into maybe 3/8th's to 1/2 inch wide strips and rolled/twisted it smooth side out. They may have even rolled it around regular 1/4 inch lace. I've got some lightweight black pigskin somewhere here or at my parents, I'll have to experiment and see if that produces a similar look.
 
You guys have done excellent work...I am honored and impressed! :thumbsup

I must admit that I am not satisfied with the tang treatment on the pattern; it does not lend it self to being wrapped very easily, and I tried to experiment with different profiles that would help in that process, but to no avail.

However, based on the close-up pic of the prop handle that Art posted (and a few other images I have), it appears that the hero prop at least had a covering of leather on it before the laces were added...you can see it poking out from under the laces.

As sword construction goes, it makes sense that there would indeed be some type of tang covering under those laces, like leather wrap or wood scales...if you've ever used a machete without a handle before (like I have), you can attest to how uncomfortable it is to use it like that....all the jarring shock impact goes right up your forearm.

Rob
 
A little slow checking back in to the thread--but am interested to buy a blade also--so that makes--4-?
 
Rob, I am really struggling with the handle as well. There are examples of handles with what appears to be brass scales (not sure why that would be necessary... maybe trying to balance the weight a bit?) and to me, I think with just the wrap, the handle seems a bit thin. I definitely want to try to find some thin leather and wrap it around 550 paracord and try again, but that is going to be a LOT of work.
 
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