I'm not sure. I find it very hard to tell. In my perspective matching I did today, my current profile design has a perfect overlay. Based on the screen grabs alone I don't see a reason to update the current profile design.
TFA Graflex Research (That's a Graflex, right? Force Awakens teaser trailer #2)
- Thread starter Dagobah Don
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I'm not sure. I find it very hard to tell. In my perspective matching I did today, my current profile design has a perfect overlay. Based on the screen grabs alone I don't see a reason to update the current profile design.
:thumbsup
towelkeeper
Well-Known Member
There are still good people in this world. Thank you for the measurements, Roy! 
towelkeeper
Well-Known Member
Just a quick question... I realized that the clamp-lever on my graflex clamp is facing the wrong way. Does anyone know how to fix this? Do I just turn the lever in the right direction, or do I risk damaging the clamp?
Thanks, guys!
Thanks, guys!
Hi,
You can push the sidebars together and then the square part of the screw comes free to rotate. You can unscrew the lever completely or rotate it only half a turn.
Mail it to me and I can fix it for you. When you get it back, it might seem like a cheap plastic replica-- but that's a totally normal result of turning the lever. Promise.
The lever is held in place because the shoulder of the screw is square, like the hole and washer. Squeezing the clamp together makes the screw rise up out of the hole so its free to rotate. This is also how you tighten the clamp if it's too wide, or loosen it if the bars are too close together.
Kouri
New Member
By the by, for anyone that doesn't have a rivet gun, or just doesn't want to poke holes into their flashgun, a bit of black paint in the sockets helps socket screws look a bit more like rivets.
I wound up using 6-32 button-head screws with the threads cut short enough to bite into the grips without marking the flash.
Specs (I used 1/4" because that's what I could get locally, but McMaster offers them at only 1/8" long):
And if you want something without the dome profile, 8-32 low-profile socket screws have similar dimensions, though aren't as easy to source at the local hardware store:
I wound up using 6-32 button-head screws with the threads cut short enough to bite into the grips without marking the flash.
Specs (I used 1/4" because that's what I could get locally, but McMaster offers them at only 1/8" long):
And if you want something without the dome profile, 8-32 low-profile socket screws have similar dimensions, though aren't as easy to source at the local hardware store:
that is a beautiful looking clamp there!
towelkeeper
Well-Known Member
Okay, I did it. It took me some courage, but I decided to file down one of my glass eyes. It was already damaged, so that helped... Behold... The golden eye!
It was a little difficult to figure out just how much brass to remove, but I'm happy with the result. I decided on adding a very slight angle to the edge... It felt right and I think I saw one on the Wired saber too. What do you think?
Thank you!
I was amazed at how clean it looked when I got it. It even has all the black paint left in the letters.
It was a little difficult to figure out just how much brass to remove, but I'm happy with the result. I decided on adding a very slight angle to the edge... It felt right and I think I saw one on the Wired saber too. What do you think?
Thank you!
I was amazed at how clean it looked when I got it. It even has all the black paint left in the letters.
Okay, I did it. It took me some courage, but I decided to file down one of my glass eyes. It was already damaged, so that helped... Behold... The golden eye!
It was a little difficult to figure out just how much brass to remove, but I'm happy with the result. I decided on adding a very slight angle to the edge... It felt right and I think I saw one on the Wired saber too. What do you think?
View attachment 627641View attachment 627642View attachment 627643View attachment 627644View attachment 627645View attachment 627646
Thank you!
I was amazed at how clean it looked when I got it. It even has all the black paint left in the letters.
beautiful!! what trick did you use? I was thinking of putting it in a electric drill, then stapling sanding paper to a block, fire up the drill and then press the block with sta dapper down on the glass eye edge
mind sharing how you did it? it looks great!!
fightercaptured
Well-Known Member
Can't wait for the clamp covers Roy! Thanks for all you do!
My acrylic glass arrived!
I spent the last hour sawing and sanding. Here is the result... I think I like the look of the material.
Next step: Etching brass. If that turns out well, I'll try to produce a few more cards.
View attachment 625868View attachment 625869
Looks spot on to me!
towelkeeper
Well-Known Member
Haha, thanks!
All I used was a small needle-file and some fine grid sandpaper. I did everything by hand and kept filing and filing and sanding and sanding. It was a little tough to keep it looking smooth and evenly, so I went slow and took my time. It took me about an hour to get it done... I was surprised, but there is not much to it. Gotta love needle-files! (Is that what they are called over there?)
However, your idea with the drill and sandpaper might be worth a shot.
fightercaptured
Well-Known Member
Okay, I did it. It took me some courage, but I decided to file down one of my glass eyes. It was already damaged, so that helped... Behold... The golden eye!
It was a little difficult to figure out just how much brass to remove, but I'm happy with the result. I decided on adding a very slight angle to the edge... It felt right and I think I saw one on the Wired saber too. What do you think?
Looks great! I did the same thing for the same reason. I had an old glass eye that had damaged edges.
It was a little difficult to figure out just how much brass to remove, but I'm happy with the result. I decided on adding a very slight angle to the edge... It felt right and I think I saw one on the Wired saber too. What do you think?
Looks great! I did the same thing for the same reason. I had an old glass eye that had damaged edges.
I put one of my TCSS glass eyes in the chuck of my cordless drill, set the drill in my table vice, then activated the drill while holding a file to the rotating glass eye. Took down the knurling in about 1 minute flat.
fightercaptured
Well-Known Member
Nice looking TFA saber! I appreciate the tip about the screws and the schematic. McMaster Carr rocks! Where did you order your grips from?
Kouri
New Member
Ah, I had leftover a set of Graflex 2.0 ESB grips, so I shaved off the alignment pegs and stuck them to my replica Graflex. If I didn't have them on hand, I probably would've just picked up a set of Roy's grips when I ordered the edge connectors.
How do the 2.0 grips line up with Roy's measurements of the TFA grips?
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