Studies in wandmaking - Fitting electronics inside a straw [UPDATE 2020-07-25]

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harrisonp

Sr Member
Appreciate the kind words! The switch itself never had a cover as far as once it was installed in the wand, the divot just kind of came naturally as I worked through the sculpt and ended up kind of looking like a knot or something to that effect. In hindsight I probably could have painted it to hide it a little better, but’s it’s fairly small and once the wand is in hand you really can’t see it.

I’ve spent a fair amount of time handling the resin replica wands as well as the plastic “interactive” wands from Universal and mine kind of feels somewhere in between. It’s definitely not wood but it doesn’t feel as “dead” as the solid resin ones.

I look forward to seeing more of yours as you refine the techniques, especially when your early attempts are so great
 

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Froggie

Active Member
Ro10

There. It actually took a bit of work to find this stuff. I also had to double check because just giving the part number seemed to be able to send you in the wrong direction.
I compiled it all here so that anyone else who might want to try can test it out without digging too much.

First is the components placements on my boards. The letters on there came out too small but I'll upload a sketch of it so that you can position them correctly.
Second is the description of what it should be. If the site says something different it is not the right part.
Third is the part number as listed by manufacturers.
Last is a link to a webpage with the correct part. I don't trust that all the links will stay active for however long this thread lasts, but it doesn't hurt to include a fast way to get to the right place.

For the two chips at the end, I just bought them off of ebay. It was easier and cheaper, as sellers there had them in lengths of 10 a package, instead of 1000 each.

C1-C4:
Capacitor
TPSB106K016R0500

C2:
Capacitor
TPSB476K010R0250

C3:
Capacitor
C0603C220K4GACTU

C5:
Capacitor
LMK212SD104KG-T

D1:
Scholtky Diode
MBR0520L

L1-L2:
Inductor
NRS4018T220MDGJV

Q1:
Semiconductor
SST2222AT116

U1:
Regulator Chip
NCP1402SN33T1G

U2:
Touch key Chip
TTP223-BA6



harrisonp

True, when someone holds it that spot would be covered. It also doesn't risk paint getting something stuck and ruining it.
I'm surprised at how many people have come up with different ideas of how to make lightup wands. There are a lot of solutions to the same problem, but yours seem very robust.


IMG_9868.jpg



As for the Elder wand, the two glueings I've tried have come up failures. In one the last broke through the fibreglass sleeve and in the other I still haven't been able to remove it. I've learned new techniques for the fitting though, like reinforcing the top in a different ways and pulling it through using wire. These techniques will undoubtedly make the other wands trivially easy in comparison, but the the Elder wand is still in the design phase.
The current glueing I haven't been able to remove yet. Don't know if it's just too thin or if there is an imperfection inside, but I might have to start over.

Right now I need to get something other than designs done, so I'll be carving another wand for a bit to clear my head and think of new ideas.
 

Froggie

Active Member
I picked out a piece of ash that I had already drilled and reinforced and spent some time carving it.
Tried my best to make something that looks more natural and branchlike, and I'm happy that I worked the PCB into such a small diameter, because even with a straight core it's possible to go quite thin and wavy without breaking into the fibreglass.

A few places I did hit fibreglass, but those will be filled in with wood and colored dark so it will be fine. Even so it makes me want to try that bending technique, for even more wavy wands.

The pommel piece will be difficult to blend into the handle as the design is more natural flowy carving, but it will be good practice to try some carving challenges for a change.



IMG_9874.png
 

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